I've got about (150) #8 screws with their heads recessed average .220 "
below the surface of mdf door jambs. These holes, to fill, are 5/16"
diameter. The majority of the screws are driven in tightly to the rough in
behind. There are some screws though that are backed off; the top jambs.
I have only recently learned these rabbet and dado joined jambs should be
completely free floating.

Oh well. I don't like filling things in the first place. No I have extra
holes facing downward with little space between the nice shinny heads and
the surface of the mdf. Maybe half of the others'.

With the screws in the side jambs tight I know to do what I think you should
always do. Try to force the filler into the back. Probably have to wait to
dry. Then sand. Repeat.

Then I have four windows' casings to fill the nail holes. These are either
set tiny Arrow electric stapler brads or set ~1-1/2" spiral finish nails.

I'm gonna give these four doors and four windows the deluxe 3 coat oil prime
and paint finish and I'd like to know how to prevent work in the future from
popping out.

Questions:
What about where the nails in the top jamb are not bottomed, but "floating".
The screws and the jambs aren't fixed in relation to one another. Can I use
the gap to my advantage. Can I just give the filler a skim coat: Wait to
dry. Then sand. Repeat? i.e.. not try to bottom? Don't want them popping
out in the future.

I'll probably buy an Elmers Wood Filler tub, likely the product at the local
HD. Should this be a good product for all of the above .




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I'd use Bondo in this case...

Bob S.


"bent" wrote in message
...
I've got about (150) #8 screws with their heads recessed average .220 "
below the surface of mdf door jambs. These holes, to fill, are 5/16"
diameter. The majority of the screws are driven in tightly to the rough
in behind. There are some screws though that are backed off; the top
jambs. I have only recently learned these rabbet and dado joined jambs
should be completely free floating.

Oh well. I don't like filling things in the first place. No I have extra
holes facing downward with little space between the nice shinny heads and
the surface of the mdf. Maybe half of the others'.

With the screws in the side jambs tight I know to do what I think you
should always do. Try to force the filler into the back. Probably have
to wait to dry. Then sand. Repeat.

Then I have four windows' casings to fill the nail holes. These are
either set tiny Arrow electric stapler brads or set ~1-1/2" spiral finish
nails.

I'm gonna give these four doors and four windows the deluxe 3 coat oil
prime and paint finish and I'd like to know how to prevent work in the
future from popping out.

Questions:
What about where the nails in the top jamb are not bottomed, but
"floating". The screws and the jambs aren't fixed in relation to one
another. Can I use the gap to my advantage. Can I just give the filler a
skim coat: Wait to dry. Then sand. Repeat? i.e.. not try to bottom?
Don't want them popping out in the future.

I'll probably buy an Elmers Wood Filler tub, likely the product at the
local HD. Should this be a good product for all of the above .




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Newsgroups
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BobS wrote:
I'd use Bondo in this case...

Bondo is a very underrated wood filler for painted work.

I've used it many times with excellent success, on everything from trim
to cabinetry to large model aircraft.

Cheap, easy to obtain, and excellent performing!

Not to mention it's workability... I was making a fairly complex window
molding (wide, long and hefty) for my SIL kitchen renovation and I messed up
towards the end of a piece. It was made from ash and was hanging over the
edge of my router table and you know what happens when a router bit spinning
at 12K rpm can do to a piece of wood when it decides to climb... I filled
in the "enhancement" with Bondo and after it setup, I ran the piece back
thru the router - hanging on very tightly this time, and the curves in the
Bondo section were super smooth.

As you said - it is a great filler for painted work or if you're using a
finish where the wood grain does not show through and you're using a color
that will hide the pink color of the Bondo. There are other colors
available I'm told but I have a large can of the pink stuff and that has
worked well for me. A small tip to remember. Use less hardener (up to 50%)
to extend the open time and then double the time to cure before you work it.

Bob S.


"B A R R Y" wrote in message
news
BobS wrote:
I'd use Bondo in this case...

Bondo is a very underrated wood filler for painted work.

I've used it many times with excellent success, on everything from trim to
cabinetry to large model aircraft.

Cheap, easy to obtain, and excellent performing!