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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove
that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
wrote in message
oups.com... todd wrote: In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? If the groove is cut by a slot cutter that is a separatre part of the bit, can you buy another slot cutter that is narrower? It is separate. I've looked high and low for another slot cutter that would work. If anyone knows of a cutter that goes on an 8mm arbor, cuts a 3/16" slot, and has a 1.75" diameter, please let me know. An alternative might be to iron on some veneer edge banding around the inside edge of the plywoodpanel to make it fit a bit tighter in the standard slot. There's all kinds of ways to "make it work" after the fact. I've got a lot of doors to make, and I'd like to save myself a lot of retrofitting, if possible. Thanks for the suggestions. todd |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd Todd, If this groove is for panels to slide into on the rails and stiles of doors - as I think you're doing, leave the groove as is and use "Space Balls". Place two in each groove and they keep the panel centered and keep it from rattling. You can make your own spacers from silicon but using the space balls is a lot easier and they work as advertised. http://www.spaceballs.com/ Bob S. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? If this 1/4" grove is cut by the rail and stile bit. DON'T DO IT. If you make the slot smaller you will have to make the mating side of the rail bit cut a narrower tennon to fit the stile grove. That is basically impossible as you will have to add carbide. Just shim the back side of the panel if it fits too loosely in the slot. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"Leon" wrote in message
. com... "todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? If this 1/4" grove is cut by the rail and stile bit. DON'T DO IT. If you make the slot smaller you will have to make the mating side of the rail bit cut a narrower tennon to fit the stile grove. That is basically impossible as you will have to add carbide. Just shim the back side of the panel if it fits too loosely in the slot. I don't think it's impossible. The mating bit is also in two pieces currently separated by a bearing and about 0.025" of shims. My plan was to remove enough of the shims to get the proper fit. todd |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"BobS" wrote in message
... "todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd Todd, If this groove is for panels to slide into on the rails and stiles of doors - as I think you're doing, leave the groove as is and use "Space Balls". Place two in each groove and they keep the panel centered and keep it from rattling. You can make your own spacers from silicon but using the space balls is a lot easier and they work as advertised. http://www.spaceballs.com/ Bob S. I'm familiar with Spaceballs. I see how they would work to keep the panel from rattling "up and down" and "side to side". But since they don't take up any of the space in the direction perpendicular to the face of the panel, I wonder if they would still allow the panel to move "in and out". todd |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 13:52:11 GMT, "BobS" wrote:
Todd, If this groove is for panels to slide into on the rails and stiles of doors - as I think you're doing, leave the groove as is and use "Space Balls". Place two in each groove and they keep the panel centered and keep it from rattling. You can make your own spacers from silicon but using the space balls is a lot easier and they work as advertised. http://www.spaceballs.com/ Bob S. Bob.. those are really cool... A great idea that I never would/wood of known about without this NG... Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
todd wrote:
In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? Just about any shop that sharpens bits, saw blades and the like. Check your yellow pages. Don't try to make the fit too snug or you'll play hell trying to get the ply into the groove. Even with a sloppy fit is is sometimes difficult (depending on size of panel). Easing the ply edges helps a lot...I use a 4 in hand (shoemaker's) rasp. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"brianlanning" wrote in message
oups.com... There's all kinds of ways to "make it work" after the fact. I've got a lot of doors to make, and I'd like to save myself a lot of retrofitting, if possible. Thanks for the suggestions. If it were me, and a cursory search for a new slot cutter failed, I would so one of these things: Believe me...it's been more than cursory. ;-) Remove the slot cutter from the set and make two passes, one with the modified bit sans slot cutter, then a second pass with something like that new amana adjustable slot cutter. Or, more likely, I would step up to 3/8" ply for the panels and rebate the edges to exactly 1/4". That would be real fast with a stacked dado set in a table saw. brian I've read suggestions on the 3/8" ply. No one around here carries it, though it could possibly be special ordered. todd |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd Todd, It's only a few bucks to have a local saw sharpener grind the slot cutter a few thou smaller. As you said, the opposing bit is adjustable as well. OTOH, making a shim for the back of the slot is pretty easy as well. Dave |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
good bits are supposed to be kept, and resharpened aren't they. This way
too, you can fit everything the way you want. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"todd" wrote in message ... I don't think it's impossible. The mating bit is also in two pieces currently separated by a bearing and about 0.025" of shims. My plan was to remove enough of the shims to get the proper fit. You may be right but opening up a bucket of worms IMHO. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
I've read suggestions on the 3/8" ply. No one around here carries it,
though it could possibly be special ordered. Half inch would probably work too. brian |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
todd wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... todd wrote: In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? If the groove is cut by a slot cutter that is a separatre part of the bit, can you buy another slot cutter that is narrower? It is separate. I've looked high and low for another slot cutter that would work. If anyone knows of a cutter that goes on an 8mm arbor, cuts a 3/16" slot, and has a 1.75" diameter, please let me know. An alternative might be to iron on some veneer edge banding around the inside edge of the plywoodpanel to make it fit a bit tighter in the standard slot. There's all kinds of ways to "make it work" after the fact. I've got a lot of doors to make, and I'd like to save myself a lot of retrofitting, if possible. Thanks for the suggestions. todd Todd, check out the Whiteside Router Bit link below for a possible solution that will fit your needs http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/c.../StileRail.pdf. Martie |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"todd" wrote in message ... "BobS" wrote in message ... "todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd Todd, If this groove is for panels to slide into on the rails and stiles of doors - as I think you're doing, leave the groove as is and use "Space Balls". Place two in each groove and they keep the panel centered and keep it from rattling. You can make your own spacers from silicon but using the space balls is a lot easier and they work as advertised. http://www.spaceballs.com/ Bob S. I'm familiar with Spaceballs. I see how they would work to keep the panel from rattling "up and down" and "side to side". But since they don't take up any of the space in the direction perpendicular to the face of the panel, I wonder if they would still allow the panel to move "in and out". todd They are under compression when installed - the panel is not going to move. You're only talking of .025" difference, not the Grand Canyon. You'll loose some of that difference when you apply finish also. Bob S. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"Martie in MO" wrote in message
... todd wrote: wrote in message oups.com... todd wrote: In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? If the groove is cut by a slot cutter that is a separatre part of the bit, can you buy another slot cutter that is narrower? It is separate. I've looked high and low for another slot cutter that would work. If anyone knows of a cutter that goes on an 8mm arbor, cuts a 3/16" slot, and has a 1.75" diameter, please let me know. An alternative might be to iron on some veneer edge banding around the inside edge of the plywoodpanel to make it fit a bit tighter in the standard slot. There's all kinds of ways to "make it work" after the fact. I've got a lot of doors to make, and I'd like to save myself a lot of retrofitting, if possible. Thanks for the suggestions. todd Todd, check out the Whiteside Router Bit link below for a possible solution that will fit your needs http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/c.../StileRail.pdf. Martie Thanks for the link, Martie. Unfortunately, Whiteside is operating under the same delusion as all the other router bit makers...that 1/4" plywood is 7/32". todd |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
"BobS" wrote in message
... "todd" wrote in message ... "BobS" wrote in message ... "todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd Todd, If this groove is for panels to slide into on the rails and stiles of doors - as I think you're doing, leave the groove as is and use "Space Balls". Place two in each groove and they keep the panel centered and keep it from rattling. You can make your own spacers from silicon but using the space balls is a lot easier and they work as advertised. http://www.spaceballs.com/ Bob S. I'm familiar with Spaceballs. I see how they would work to keep the panel from rattling "up and down" and "side to side". But since they don't take up any of the space in the direction perpendicular to the face of the panel, I wonder if they would still allow the panel to move "in and out". todd They are under compression when installed - the panel is not going to move. You're only talking of .025" difference, not the Grand Canyon. You'll loose some of that difference when you apply finish also. Bob S. I picked up some Spaceballs today since I had planned to use them anyway. Maybe I just need to see a door with everything installed and see how it performs. todd |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
I've been using the Freud adjustable tongue and grove set for this. It
makes a nice snug fit by adding removing shims to both bits. http://www.freud-tools.com/freud99adton.html Carl "todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
I don't see how (at least for 1/4" ply). According to the info on the set,
the smallest groove it will cut is 7/32, which is already the size I have (which is too big). It's too bad, because they're the only ones I've seen that have the correct diameter (1.75"). todd "Carl" wrote in message news:CsWSf.725$PE.200@fed1read05... I've been using the Freud adjustable tongue and grove set for this. It makes a nice snug fit by adding removing shims to both bits. http://www.freud-tools.com/freud99adton.html Carl "todd" wrote in message ... In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? todd |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Grinding a router bit
todd wrote:
In my continuing saga to try to use my rail and stile set to create a groove that 1/4" plywood these days will fit snugly into, I'm strongly considering getting the carbide ground from about .220" to about .195". If I'm not nuts to consider this, where might I send the bit to be modified? It's pretty easy to grind a carbide bit down if you have a diamond sharpening stone and a digital vernier or mic. I ground a 6.3mm one down to 5.5 to make a cutter to fit a guitar truss rod (roughly your sizes!). If you haven't got a diamond stone yet, you don't know what you're missing! Work out how much you have to take off each side, then grind down one side all the way, checking for *parallel* as you go with the vernier/mike (the other edge is your datum). Then flip the tool over and grind the other side, also checking for parallel. Takes no more than ten minutes. Clifford Heath. |
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