I have two Blum 'clip' hinges set in about 6" in from the edges of a 24"W x
32" H 11mmT Russian Birch plywood door, There is a 1x2" frame. It is
rabetted into the back. The hinge side is screwed tight 6x, and glued in
the center only (~5." between center 2 screws). The screws around the other
3 perimeter sides allow the plywood to stay flush with the frame, but float.
I chiseled out the 1-3/8" holes for the door side of the hinge and am about
to screw the hinge to the door. The door is half-inset (rabetted again
outside perimeter 4 sides), and is rubbing tightly inset all four sides on
the inside of the panels of the fusebox panel box frame.

I could put the door into position and it will sit (It ain't going anywhere
in ANY direction).

How do I mark the initial locations for the holes for the frame side of the
hinge. They are the clip kind, so I could separate them instantly. But I
cannot peek around nor behind when the door is closed. There is no side,
nor back, nor does the inside panel from the frame come out. The panel and
frame were both chiseled simultaneously to fit the hinge door side.

There is according to Blum all kinds of adjustment built into these hinges,
but I afraid to experiment because they are at factory default.

I could measure and guess, and hope there is enough adjustment, but I
wouldn't know where to start - I'm pushing it as it is (and maybe sanding
here and there too).

OR,
could I make some temporary hold-down clamps (toggle-style) of scrap wood
screwed to the inside of the frame to the hold the clip on frame-side tight
enough to push the doors into position when the door is closed, then open
the door (if I can, if they are held tight enough), and then mark the drill
holes.



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I just had to glue as well as screw first. didn't I



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"bent" wrote in message
...
I have two Blum 'clip' hinges set in about 6" in from the edges of a 24"W x
32" H 11mmT Russian Birch plywood door, There is a 1x2" frame. It is
rabetted into the back. The hinge side is screwed tight 6x, and glued in
the center only (~5." between center 2 screws). The screws around the
other 3 perimeter sides allow the plywood to stay flush with the frame, but
float. I chiseled out the 1-3/8" holes for the door side of the hinge and
am about to screw the hinge to the door. The door is half-inset (rabetted
again outside perimeter 4 sides), and is rubbing tightly inset all four
sides on the inside of the panels of the fusebox panel box frame.

I could put the door into position and it will sit (It ain't going
anywhere in ANY direction).

How do I mark the initial locations for the holes for the frame side of
the hinge. They are the clip kind, so I could separate them instantly.
But I cannot peek around nor behind when the door is closed. There is no
side, nor back, nor does the inside panel from the frame come out. The
panel and frame were both chiseled simultaneously to fit the hinge door
side.

Measure and you might have to consider cutting the door such that it does
not fit as tightly.


There is according to Blum all kinds of adjustment built into these
hinges, but I afraid to experiment because they are at factory default.

Factory default IMHO does not exist. I have seen them come with a range of
adjustments and I buy these type hinges by the 100's. Just center the
adjustments and go from there.

I could measure and guess, and hope there is enough adjustment, but I
wouldn't know where to start - I'm pushing it as it is (and maybe sanding
here and there too).

OR,
could I make some temporary hold-down clamps (toggle-style) of scrap wood
screwed to the inside of the frame to the hold the clip on frame-side
tight enough to push the doors into position when the door is closed, then
open the door (if I can, if they are held tight enough), and then mark the
drill holes.

Typically the up and down measurement is the tough adjustment. You can
determint this by ..
Mounting both complete hinges on to the door. Mount the cabinet side of
the hinges on to a 1x4 that is shorter than the door. Remove the door from
the hinges and then screw the 1x4 on to the cabinet in a location that you
think would be correct. Remount the door and check for up and down
clearance. Readjust the 1x4 as needed. Yes, the door will not close
completely because it overlaps the side. Once your up and down location is
determined measure the top or bottom hinge distance from the top or bottom
and use that reference to locate where to attach to the actual cabinet after
removing the 1x4.