Rockwell 4692 Porta Planer
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MESE:IT

Includes:

a.. Metal storage/carrying case
b.. Rockwell 4692 Porta Plane with owner's manual
c.. Sharpening attachment and ancillary items with user manual

On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 22:06:53 -0500, Randy A wrote:
Rockwell 4692 Porta Planer

What's it for?

Think of it as a hand held jointer. It is primarily used for planing the
edge of boards or doors. It can also be used to bevel an edge.

Randy

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 22:06:53 -0500, Randy A
wrote:
Rockwell 4692 Porta Planer

What's it for?

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 23:32:01 -0500, Randy A wrote:
Think of it as a hand held jointer. It is primarily used for planing the
edge of boards or doors. It can also be used to bevel an edge.

And this claims to be a precision tool, does it?

I'm not crazy about supporting anything about advertising,
especially ebay stuff, but the tool is an excellent tool owned by
about every wood door hanger in the country. Precision in the
hands of an experienced craftsman.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 23:32:01 -0500, Randy A
wrote:
Think of it as a hand held jointer. It is primarily used for
planing the
edge of boards or doors. It can also be used to bevel an edge.

And this claims to be a precision tool, does it?

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 10:01:21 -0500, "DanG" wrote:


(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I like that. I'm going to implement that in my postings. It perfectly
illustrates why top posting so often makes sense. Ought to really
drive the netKops nuts. Of course if the netwits would learn to edit,
there wouldn't be any debate.

Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

On 22 Oct 2005 13:45:59 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 23:32:01 -0500, Randy A wrote:
Think of it as a hand held jointer. It is primarily used for planing the
edge of boards or doors. It can also be used to bevel an edge.

And this claims to be a precision tool, does it?


it's as close to a precision tool as you'll get in a handheld machine.
it's a high quality tool.

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 16:20:55 +0100, LRod wrote:
On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 10:01:21 -0500, "DanG" wrote:


(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I like that. I'm going to implement that in my postings. It perfectly
illustrates why top posting so often makes sense. Ought to really
drive the netKops nuts. Of course if the netwits would learn to edit,
there wouldn't be any debate.

Nah, doesn't drive me nuts...the killfile is only two keystrokes away.

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 17:12:57 -0700, s wrote:
On 22 Oct 2005 13:45:59 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

And this claims to be a precision tool, does it?

it's as close to a precision tool as you'll get in a handheld machine.
it's a high quality tool.

Hm, I have one, and have used it exactly twice. Didn't care for the
results either time. Any hints for using one of these to, say, shave
down a sticking door?

On 24 Oct 2005 15:27:23 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 17:12:57 -0700, s wrote:
On 22 Oct 2005 13:45:59 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

And this claims to be a precision tool, does it?

it's as close to a precision tool as you'll get in a handheld machine.
it's a high quality tool.

Hm, I have one, and have used it exactly twice. Didn't care for the
results either time. Any hints for using one of these to, say, shave
down a sticking door?


planing a sticking door is often a mistake. before you get out the
plane, make sure that the hinges are tight and set right and that the
jamb is square. if it still sticks, mark out where and how much and
take the door down and pull all of the hardware. generally you'll be
planing the hinge side. set the plane for a light cut and sneak up on
your line.

make sure that you have a good grasp of the door geometry, including
bevels.

On Tue, 25 Oct 2005 14:06:26 -0700, s wrote:
On 24 Oct 2005 15:27:23 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Hm, I have one, and have used it exactly twice. Didn't care for the
results either time. Any hints for using one of these to, say, shave
down a sticking door?

planing a sticking door is often a mistake. before you get out the
plane, make sure that the hinges are tight and set right and that the
jamb is square.

Well, it's welded steel in a cement block wall (at my kids' school), so
if it's not, I don't have a lot of options to fix that.

if it still sticks, mark out where and how much and
take the door down and pull all of the hardware. generally you'll be
planing the hinge side. set the plane for a light cut and sneak up on
your line.

Ah, hadn't thought of cutting it on that side. Why there, rather than
the side that's actually hitting?

make sure that you have a good grasp of the door geometry, including
bevels.

I'm good with the bevels, but far as I know, the rest of it
is...uncomplicated. Or, is there something subtle going on?

Dave Hinz

Do Not plane the door!!!!! I need to assume the door worked well
when it was installed..
The most likely culprit is a bent top hinge. If this door has or
had a closer on it, the hinge itself and/or the steel plate in the
jamb can be bent. Custodians and teachers have been known to put
a block of wood or a book between the door edge and the jamb to
keep it open. A really strong closer or anyone pushing at the
door will instantly bend the top hinge. These door weigh upwards
of a hundred pounds and can force the hinges to sag a little over
time even without the closer. I would venture to say that if you
were to look at the hinge side gap between the door edge and jamb
when the door is closed, you will note a larger gap at the top
than at the bottom.

Easiest: Eliminate the easy ones first: make sure that the hinge
screws are tight.

A little harder: the hinge has lost some of its swage. You need
to move the center line of the hinge closer to the jamb. You will
probably need to do this to the top and center hinge. You can
take the hinge off, place in a heavy vise, bend with a heavy
sledge and appropriate block. You can place the hinge on concrete
or a heavy steel plate and using a brick set and sledge, rebend
the swage in the hinge. If the door and jamb are in good
condition, you can use a good quality adjustable wrench (Crescent,
etc) and close it tightly on the hinge barrel at the portions of
the leafs that are fastened to the jamb. Push the handle of the
wrench away from the strike side of the door hard enough to bend
the hinge. Get a little on each jamb side leaf knuckle of the top
and center hinge. I think you will be pleased with fixing the
door.

Hardest: Make sure the hinge's mortise is deep enough in the
steel to allow the hinge to be flush with the top of the steel.
If it above the steel, the hinge plate in the jamb has been bent -
you can try to rebend it with a heavy sledge and steel block. You
can try to draw it back into the masonry wall with masonry drill,
countersink, and tapcons.

If things have really gone awry, you can buy a 1/2 mortise hinge,
wedge the door into proper position and install through bolts or
tapcons into the face of the jamb. These hinges are getting
harder to come by, the industry has gone to continuous hinges
which run about $150 per door.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Oct 2005 14:06:26 -0700, s
wrote:
On 24 Oct 2005 15:27:23 GMT, Dave Hinz
wrote:

Hm, I have one, and have used it exactly twice. Didn't care
for the
results either time. Any hints for using one of these to, say,
shave
down a sticking door?

planing a sticking door is often a mistake. before you get out
the
plane, make sure that the hinges are tight and set right and
that the
jamb is square.

Well, it's welded steel in a cement block wall (at my kids'
school), so
if it's not, I don't have a lot of options to fix that.

if it still sticks, mark out where and how much and
take the door down and pull all of the hardware. generally
you'll be
planing the hinge side. set the plane for a light cut and sneak
up on
your line.

Ah, hadn't thought of cutting it on that side. Why there,
rather than
the side that's actually hitting?

make sure that you have a good grasp of the door geometry,
including
bevels.

I'm good with the bevels, but far as I know, the rest of it
is...uncomplicated. Or, is there something subtle going on?

Dave Hinz

On 26 Oct 2005 14:53:28 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 25 Oct 2005 14:06:26 -0700, s wrote:
On 24 Oct 2005 15:27:23 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Hm, I have one, and have used it exactly twice. Didn't care for the
results either time. Any hints for using one of these to, say, shave
down a sticking door?

planing a sticking door is often a mistake. before you get out the
plane, make sure that the hinges are tight and set right and that the
jamb is square.

Well, it's welded steel in a cement block wall (at my kids' school), so
if it's not, I don't have a lot of options to fix that.

assuming that the building hasn't settled, warping the frame. if that
has happened, planing the door might be your only option. but it might
not, too. if the casing is removeable, check to see if the jamb can be
adjusted. but first check the jamb for plumb and level- if the wall is
sound, don't mess with the jamb.




if it still sticks, mark out where and how much and
take the door down and pull all of the hardware. generally you'll be
planing the hinge side. set the plane for a light cut and sneak up on
your line.

Ah, hadn't thought of cutting it on that side. Why there, rather than
the side that's actually hitting?

the lockset is the hardest thing on a door to move. if you plane the
strike edge, you'll have to reset the lockset.

sticking doors are usually caused by sagging on the hinges. sometimes
the screws have worked loose, sometimes it's from wear on the hinge
itself- is it a high traffic door, old and heavy? sometimes on a frame
and panel door the rail and stile jointery loosens and the door sags
on itself.

open the door to about 90 degrees and stand at the strike edge with
your toes on either side of the edge of it. grab one knob in each hand
and apply lift. if the door is sagging on the hinges you'll see
movement and whether it's the door leaf, the jamb leaf or both that
are loose.

with the door closed, slip a business card in the gap and slide it all
of the way around the door. this will tell you exactly where it's
binding.



make sure that you have a good grasp of the door geometry, including
bevels.

I'm good with the bevels, but far as I know, the rest of it
is...uncomplicated. Or, is there something subtle going on?

Dave Hinz


there are a lot of places where a door hang can go bad, and usually
you'll run into a combination of several.

On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 14:49:58 -0700, s wrote:
On 26 Oct 2005 14:53:28 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Well, it's welded steel in a cement block wall (at my kids' school), so
if it's not, I don't have a lot of options to fix that.

assuming that the building hasn't settled, warping the frame.

No cracks, anywhere in the school, in the concrete block walls, so I
don't think anything has moved.

if that
has happened, planing the door might be your only option. but it might
not, too. if the casing is removeable, check to see if the jamb can be
adjusted. but first check the jamb for plumb and level- if the wall is
sound, don't mess with the jamb.

Right.

Ah, hadn't thought of cutting it on that side. Why there, rather than
the side that's actually hitting?

the lockset is the hardest thing on a door to move. if you plane the
strike edge, you'll have to reset the lockset.

So I should take a full swipe then rather than just where it's bearing,
I take it?

sticking doors are usually caused by sagging on the hinges. sometimes
the screws have worked loose, sometimes it's from wear on the hinge
itself- is it a high traffic door, old and heavy?

6th grade classroom in a,...40 year old school building. I've got that
box of hinges...maybe pull a pin and see how that looks then.

sometimes on a frame
and panel door the rail and stile jointery loosens and the door sags
on itself.

This one is a solid-core door with a window, in a steel frame. So the
hinges make the most sense now that you bring that up.

open the door to about 90 degrees and stand at the strike edge with
your toes on either side of the edge of it. grab one knob in each hand
and apply lift. if the door is sagging on the hinges you'll see
movement and whether it's the door leaf, the jamb leaf or both that
are loose.
with the door closed, slip a business card in the gap and slide it all
of the way around the door. this will tell you exactly where it's
binding.

That, I can tell from the scrape marks

I'm good with the bevels, but far as I know, the rest of it
is...uncomplicated. Or, is there something subtle going on?

there are a lot of places where a door hang can go bad, and usually
you'll run into a combination of several.

Sounds like fun.

On 26 Oct 2005 21:55:32 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 14:49:58 -0700, s wrote:
On 26 Oct 2005 14:53:28 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Well, it's welded steel in a cement block wall (at my kids' school), so
if it's not, I don't have a lot of options to fix that.

assuming that the building hasn't settled, warping the frame.

No cracks, anywhere in the school, in the concrete block walls, so I
don't think anything has moved.

if that
has happened, planing the door might be your only option. but it might
not, too. if the casing is removeable, check to see if the jamb can be
adjusted. but first check the jamb for plumb and level- if the wall is
sound, don't mess with the jamb.

Right.

Ah, hadn't thought of cutting it on that side. Why there, rather than
the side that's actually hitting?

the lockset is the hardest thing on a door to move. if you plane the
strike edge, you'll have to reset the lockset.

So I should take a full swipe then rather than just where it's bearing,
I take it?

probably you shouldn't be planing the door. but if what the door needs
is to be a fraction narrower but parallel, that's where you'd do it.




sticking doors are usually caused by sagging on the hinges. sometimes
the screws have worked loose, sometimes it's from wear on the hinge
itself- is it a high traffic door, old and heavy?

6th grade classroom in a,...40 year old school building. I've got that
box of hinges...maybe pull a pin and see how that looks then.

the pin can wear but so can the knuckle.




sometimes on a frame
and panel door the rail and stile jointery loosens and the door sags
on itself.

This one is a solid-core door with a window, in a steel frame. So the
hinges make the most sense now that you bring that up.

open the door to about 90 degrees and stand at the strike edge with
your toes on either side of the edge of it. grab one knob in each hand
and apply lift. if the door is sagging on the hinges you'll see
movement and whether it's the door leaf, the jamb leaf or both that
are loose.
with the door closed, slip a business card in the gap and slide it all
of the way around the door. this will tell you exactly where it's
binding.

That, I can tell from the scrape marks

the card will also tell you where the gap is too big, if you wiggle it
a bit as it goes. finding the spots where the door is pulling away
from the jamb can be the clue you need.

think about the effect of gravity on the door. generally it will be
trying to rotate around the hinges, so it will try to bind at the
floor on the hinge side and at the top at the strike side. then think
about how to move the door back up into place. taking wood off is
rarely the right thing to do.



I'm good with the bevels, but far as I know, the rest of it
is...uncomplicated. Or, is there something subtle going on?

there are a lot of places where a door hang can go bad, and usually
you'll run into a combination of several.

Sounds like fun.


it kind of can be.