On 26 Oct 2005 14:53:28 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:
On Tue, 25 Oct 2005 14:06:26 -0700, s wrote:
On 24 Oct 2005 15:27:23 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:
Hm, I have one, and have used it exactly twice. Didn't care for the
results either time. Any hints for using one of these to, say, shave
down a sticking door?
planing a sticking door is often a mistake. before you get out the
plane, make sure that the hinges are tight and set right and that the
jamb is square.
Well, it's welded steel in a cement block wall (at my kids' school), so
if it's not, I don't have a lot of options to fix that.
assuming that the building hasn't settled, warping the frame. if that
has happened, planing the door might be your only option. but it might
not, too. if the casing is removeable, check to see if the jamb can be
adjusted. but first check the jamb for plumb and level- if the wall is
sound, don't mess with the jamb.
if it still sticks, mark out where and how much and
take the door down and pull all of the hardware. generally you'll be
planing the hinge side. set the plane for a light cut and sneak up on
your line.
Ah, hadn't thought of cutting it on that side. Why there, rather than
the side that's actually hitting?
the lockset is the hardest thing on a door to move. if you plane the
strike edge, you'll have to reset the lockset.
sticking doors are usually caused by sagging on the hinges. sometimes
the screws have worked loose, sometimes it's from wear on the hinge
itself- is it a high traffic door, old and heavy? sometimes on a frame
and panel door the rail and stile jointery loosens and the door sags
on itself.
open the door to about 90 degrees and stand at the strike edge with
your toes on either side of the edge of it. grab one knob in each hand
and apply lift. if the door is sagging on the hinges you'll see
movement and whether it's the door leaf, the jamb leaf or both that
are loose.
with the door closed, slip a business card in the gap and slide it all
of the way around the door. this will tell you exactly where it's
binding.
make sure that you have a good grasp of the door geometry, including
bevels.
I'm good with the bevels, but far as I know, the rest of it
is...uncomplicated. Or, is there something subtle going on?
Dave Hinz
there are a lot of places where a door hang can go bad, and usually
you'll run into a combination of several.