Since the wainscotting will be nailed flat to the wall and not part of a
piece of furniture, have you considered "pressing the warp" out of the stock
when jointing it. You'd lose less material and it really doesn't matter how
flat the board is if it will be nailed to a wall, which more than likely is
not flat either.

You could also just nix face jointing entirely and run it through the planer
as is. You probably still want to edge joint it, but that shouldn't be too
tough. Again, with nailing it flat to the wall, you can take out any bend
the jointer is too short to flatten.




"No" wrote in message ...
OK - Thanks for everyone's input on getting my arse in gear on buying
rough stock for my next project.

I have a desire to use single boards about 13 foot long for parts of my
wainscoting project. (Horizontal rails). My jointer is only 72" long.
Neaner. Anyway - I will cut the boards about an inch or so bigger than my
final length setup some infeed and outfeed support and get a helper and
hope for the best. I am starting with 4/4 stock, jointing one face,
planing then jointing one edge and ripping to width.

My questions
Is the order correct? Cut to close length, face joint, plane, edge, rip?
Or should I edge joint, rip, face joint plane? The latter will have me
running less material through the jointer and planer, I suppose, but how
can I be guaranteed a square edge? Seems if I did do the latter I would
rip a bit wide then visit the jointer again to ensure a square edge. Any
advantage to this?

OK another question - My experience with jointing and planing has been
limited to nothing longer that 6' or 8'. When working with that long of a
stock it appears that you may need to remove a lot of material in a badly
twisted or bowed board before you get it flat. My stock looked pretty good
at the mill I bough it from but I would suspect even a very slight
unnoticeable bow would be shown by a decent jointer. I worried by the time
I got the board flat on one side I would not have enough stock left to
make my final thickness. So, would I be better off cutting my long rails
in half and then joining them back together when I build the rails for the
wainscoting?

Make sense?

I wont ask for comments on jointing techniques for long boards. I got them
searching via google groups. but if anyone has any wisdom they would like
to add here feel free.

Joe Tylicki wrote:
Since the wainscotting will be nailed flat to the wall and not part
of a piece of furniture, have you considered "pressing the warp" out
of the stock when jointing it. You'd lose less material and it
really doesn't matter how flat the board is if it will be nailed to a
wall, which more than likely is not flat either.

You could also just nix face jointing entirely and run it through the
planer as is. You probably still want to edge joint it, but that
shouldn't be too tough. Again, with nailing it flat to the wall, you
can take out any bend the jointer is too short to flatten.

HOORAY! Common sense is a wonderful thing

--
dadiOH
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"Joe Tylicki" wrote in message
...
Since the wainscotting will be nailed flat to the wall and not part of a
piece of furniture, have you considered "pressing the warp" out of the
stock when jointing it. You'd lose less material and it really doesn't
matter how flat the board is if it will be nailed to a wall, which more
than likely is not flat either.

You could also just nix face jointing entirely and run it through the
planer as is. You probably still want to edge joint it, but that
shouldn't be too tough. Again, with nailing it flat to the wall, you can
take out any bend the jointer is too short to flatten.




"No" wrote in message ...
OK - Thanks for everyone's input on getting my arse in gear on buying
rough stock for my next project.

snip my original message

Thanks - I was thinking that skipping the face jointing may be the right
answer. A bow or slight twist should be able to flatten out upon install.
Just run the stock through the planner. This is, of course, assuming
consistent thickness, or close to it.
Additionally. I'm thinking also if I can rip close to my needed size then I
would be fighting less to get the boards flat-ish. Then edge joint and rip
to final width.