Wow, first resaw of a 2x10 pine board for practice is darn near close
enough to sand out the finish. I'm impressed

"Knothead" wrote in message
...
Wow, first resaw of a 2x10 pine board for practice is darn near close
enough to sand out the finish. I'm impressed

If darn near close, what will you use before sanding?

Single finish pass in the planer to size it. I could run it through the
Woodmaster with the sanding drum installed but it's set up to mold already
so to the planer it goes.... I have the original Jet 18" bandsaw before they
figured out that the column needed extensive beefing up. Been running
Timberwolf blades since I bought it thinking the low tension was the
solution. With this blade I think I might actually not turn this saw into a
mailbox post..

"Knothead" wrote in message
...
Single finish pass in the planer to size it. I could run it through the
Woodmaster with the sanding drum installed but it's set up to mold already
so to the planer it goes.... I have the original Jet 18" bandsaw before
they figured out that the column needed extensive beefing up. Been running
Timberwolf blades since I bought it thinking the low tension was the
solution. With this blade I think I might actually not turn this saw into
a mailbox post..



Do you run your veneer through the planer on a sled or modified table? I
want to get into veneering and cutting my own. I am currently shopping the
bigger European model band saws.

Do you run your veneer through the planer on a sled or modified table? I
want to get into veneering and cutting my own. I am currently shopping
the bigger European model band saws.


Sorry for the delay. (I now have a spanking new dsl gateway) At this point
on a sled but I'm not getting the best results. I was thinking about
building an adjustable table and have been filtering through other folks
plans on the 'net to see what will works well.

Knothead wrote:
Wow, first resaw of a 2x10 pine board for practice is darn near close
enough to sand out the finish. I'm impressed

Thanks for the info...

How do you compare it to the Timberwolf blade (I see you've used both)?

er
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I've used both and the WS puts the TW to shame.

-Steve
"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...
Knothead wrote:
Wow, first resaw of a 2x10 pine board for practice is darn near close
enough to sand out the finish. I'm impressed

Thanks for the info...

How do you compare it to the Timberwolf blade (I see you've used both)?

er
--
email not valid

Living in Canada, I thought getting the Wood slicer from Highland,
would be to much $$ for the smoother cut. When the Loonie hit about
$0.85, I took the leap, and was rewarded with a smooth cut , it
blew my mind. So much for the TW. Still I wish there was a Canadian
source.

My woodslicer is also much smoother than the timberwolf. BUT the TW is
about 2x as fast on my bandsaw. If one is cutting veneer, or real
close to final thickness the woodslicer is the way to go. For my
workbench out of dunage, the TW was much quicker.

Now, I left the Woodslicer under tension, which I also do to the TW,
and it broke a ways from the weld. A local sharpening shop re-welded
it, but I have not yet reinstalled into my bandsaw.

Alan

"arw01" wrote in message
oups.com...
My woodslicer is also much smoother than the timberwolf. BUT the TW is
about 2x as fast on my bandsaw. If one is cutting veneer, or real
close to final thickness the woodslicer is the way to go. For my
workbench out of dunage, the TW was much quicker.

Now, I left the Woodslicer under tension, which I also do to the TW,
and it broke a ways from the weld. A local sharpening shop re-welded
it, but I have not yet reinstalled into my bandsaw.

Alan


Do you have any experience with the Laguna Resaw King?

I,ve used the woodslicer for re-sawing, it works really good for me. Smooth
cuts n the saw isn,t working hard.
I use 1/4" Timber Wolf for my general bandsaw cutting, fast n works
good, better than the 3/8" Sears blade i had been using. I have 14"
Powermatic bandsaw, n keep the tension off when not in use.
Only bad thing now is, my dog "snowball" passed on; he was 14-1/2
yrs....American Eskimo, minature(17#)
he used to carry my scraps around n play in the shop....good dog....will
miss him...

George...
"Leon" wrote in message
om...

"arw01" wrote in message
oups.com...
My woodslicer is also much smoother than the timberwolf. BUT the TW is
about 2x as fast on my bandsaw. If one is cutting veneer, or real
close to final thickness the woodslicer is the way to go. For my
workbench out of dunage, the TW was much quicker.

Now, I left the Woodslicer under tension, which I also do to the TW,
and it broke a ways from the weld. A local sharpening shop re-welded
it, but I have not yet reinstalled into my bandsaw.

Alan


Do you have any experience with the Laguna Resaw King?

No experience with that blade, they likely don't make em short enough
for my uit. It will take a 2" wide blade, but getting someone to make
a 72 7/16" blade is a bit trickier.

http://alan.firebin.net/bs50n.html

The Timberwolves last a long time but the alternating tooth pattern on the
Woodslicer wins hands down on several points.
1. Super quiet
2. Hardly any chateer or resulting marks
3. Thinner and seems to run cooler.
4. Higher tension seems to be better suited for the saw I have. Jets first
relaease of this 18' was still in the "beta" stages apparently when I bought
it.

Knothead wrote:
The Timberwolves last a long time but the alternating tooth pattern on the
Woodslicer wins hands down on several points.
1. Super quiet
2. Hardly any chateer or resulting marks
3. Thinner and seems to run cooler.
4. Higher tension seems to be better suited for the saw I have. Jets first
relaease of this 18' was still in the "beta" stages apparently when I bought
it.

Thanks. Is that the regular blade or the "resaw" blade?

er
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