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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
I used to use a Paslode corrugated fastener gun to edge-join slabs of PB
to create countertops shapes prior to laminating. Such gun, these days is a lot of money... like $500.00 I did find a XC1016 Spotnail gun, but up here, in Kanukistan, they still want over $500.00 if one includes shipping and a minimum of 11,000 fasteners (real number, btw) For the odd time I will still do a laminate top, I would still like to find a way to join two pieces of particle board substrate in a flat and strong fashion. Tonight, I used my Kreg jig and the end result of my test was rather promising. Now I'm thinking if I added a couple of biscuits and/or used a routed glue-joint (either wavy bit or glue-up joint) AND pocket screws...?? Any other ideas? |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
That is certainly one of the things the Kreg was designed to
do. The more you use their tools, the more you like them. I have built several large cases using biscuits and pocket hole screws in combo and it's a pretty nice combination. The biscuits "line it up" and the screws "tighten it up". The "original" purpose of the Kreg was face frames, so all you are doing is "large" face frames ???? Robatoy wrote: I used to use a Paslode corrugated fastener gun to edge-join slabs of PB to create countertops shapes prior to laminating. Tonight, I used my Kreg jig and the end result of my test was rather promising. Now I'm thinking if I added a couple of biscuits and/or used a routed glue-joint (either wavy bit or glue-up joint) AND pocket screws...?? |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
In article .com,
"bikerb422" wrote: Robotoy, I have done the same as you with the corrugated gun. It was fast and fairly strong. But now that I do this more or less as a hobby now, I just use corrugated fasteners with a hammer. They still hold the same. I have even fastened my pine face frames with them for a formica cabinet. Two from the back side and one in the center from the front. -Regards Bruce Hammer, eh...mmm..are you using the same fasteners as those supplied for the guns? |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
I have used the ones from the gun. I just use dykes to split them
apart. Or I have used the ones you can buy that are separate. Bruce |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
r:
I don't do much laminate work anymore unless it is a small job. That's a job best left to the pros, eh? When I do have a small job I can burn through, I use the hand driven corrugated fasteners (not the one with the ears on the them; the old fashioned corrugated type) and pound them in with my 22 oz hammer. With laminate on it, it never moves. I saw this: http://tinyurl.com/gcwg4 but have not owned a Spotnails gun in years, so quality is unknown. My question to you is this: Are you paying a lot to get tools from the USA to the frozen tundra? Looks like this setup could be had for $230, plus another $55 in nails... so how much would it be from them to you with shipping? I am not saying to buy the gun, I don't know anything about it. But there are a lot of suppliers out there, and I am sure that shipping to Canada wouldn't be a problem. Inquiring minds want to know. Also, didja get the pinner? R |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
In article . com,
wrote: r: I don't do much laminate work anymore unless it is a small job. That's a job best left to the pros, eh? At this rate, I might be a pro someday. I end up with laminate jobs when the client wants either granite, engineered stone or solid surfacing for an island but the total budget isn't quite there. As a last resort, I can then suggest to do the rest of the counters in a custom laminate with a solid surface edge or something along those lines in order to save some money... and clinch the deal. Deal clinching is a lot on my mind lately as I am gearing up for some serious decisions. ( bigger premises/CNC) Believe me. it is not something I go looking for. It's not really terrible work, and the money is still decent...but that PB dust... I also use a nice adhesive technology which is airless and very quick drying. http://tinyurl.com/zb8ud When I do have a small job I can burn through, I use the hand driven corrugated fasteners (not the one with the ears on the them; the old fashioned corrugated type) and pound them in with my 22 oz hammer. With laminate on it, it never moves. I'm still not sure which fastener you mean. Is it designed for a hammer? It's the XC1016 I was looking at. I can't find anybody to endorse it or tell me tall tales of hate. My question to you is this: Are you paying a lot to get tools from the USA to the frozen tundra? Looks like this setup could be had for $230, plus another $55 in nails... so how much would it be from them to you with shipping? I am not saying to buy the gun, I don't know anything about it. But there are a lot of suppliers out there, and I am sure that shipping to Canada wouldn't be a problem. The shipping costs have a lot to do with wind direction. The dogs don't run well into an Arctic Clipper wind system. Most shipping companies have 'snow-depth' surcharges, usually by the foot. So, when the summer comes, which is often on a Tuesday, the Spotnails will cost me $375.00 but the *******s have to sell me 11,000 fasteners for $121.00 plus tax and shipping. Plus, of course, the costs for the Coast Guard to send an icebreaker to get me to the post office. So, in order to deliver this particular job, I have run additional tests with the Kreg jig and I am satisfied with the results... Inquiring minds want to know. Also, didja get the pinner? I am ordering the Cadex 23.35 next time I'm going to do some small trim.... it's a 'must have'. I found some people on Woodweb who just love those pinners. The PC pinner won't sink the nails, but I learned of a fix: grind the nose down. R r |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
Robatoy wrote:
I'm still not sure which fastener you mean. Is it designed for a hammer? Absolutely. This design is as old as the hills, and the corrugations are sharp, and most of them have a slight angle (you can buy them straight, though) to help draw the joint together. Note that these come a box of 25 units, carded at 6 in each unit if I am reading this correctly. http://tinyurl.com/pbhrw The correct method of installation is to tap on one side, then the other to finally wind up hitting the fastener in the middle to sink it flush. I learned to use these bad boys before biscuits; before loose tennons; well before Kreg screw to make the classic rail/stile face attached to a carcass style of cabinet making. There is a written description halfway down the right hand side of the page on this link: http://tinyurl.com/lbprs Check the upper quarter of the page, in the middle, and it will give you a "next" button to turn to the referenced illustration. Feel free to gasp in horror as you stare at what we did 30 years ago.... newer woodworkers should avert their eyes.... No fancy gadgetry, just good cuts and little glue on both sides of the joint. Put it face down on a very smooth surface and hammered those babies in. If we had good soft maple, we didn't even clamp them to keep from moving. With harder wood, we would put on a large pipe clamp to on the face to compress it until it was secured. These joints worked absolutely great by the way, and with a couple of brads holding the glued face on until the next day, we never had failures. I was taught this method from a master of all things wood that had learned it 25 years before showing me! I don't know anything about the Cadex gun except what I read online, so please post what you find out. I am really, really, reluctant to purchase any pneumatic fastening system of any sort that doesn't have any local support. If I buy a specialty gun and it goes out, I am screwed until I can get it fixed. In some cases that is no big deal; in come cases (like this type of gun which is so job specific) it could be tragedy. I am waiting to buy a pinner until I get the next mantle I need to put dentils on. The last one was tragic. The dentils were 1/4" thick white oak, and my 18 ga. shattered the damn things every time I shot it. You're gonna laugh... but I wound up putting on the dentils with my old friend 5 minute expoxy and some clamps. With molding that small, the paint will literally hold it in place when it is secured, and it wasn't nearly as painful to glue as it sounds. I had no idea you guys got screwed so badly with the shipping prices. I take it for granted here that our shipping runs anywhere from a little pricey to just downright cheap. Generally there are no considerations for any conditions other than distance that I know of with a few normal exceptions. And really, few of those. Some things you just take for granted, I guess. R |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
wrote:
Absolutely. This design is as old as the hills, and the corrugations are sharp, and most of them have a slight angle (you can buy them straight, though) to help draw the joint together. Note that these come a box of 25 units, carded at 6 in each unit if I am reading this correctly. I remember these from my yoot ... seems all the cheapo outdoor furniture used them (japanese joinery). You'll also remember the eventual streaky rust stains, like pee running down a leg. Now, if Norm was as bad as everyone say's, and was a REAL old time carpenter, the famous quote would be: "Just a few corrugated fasteners hammered in to hold it 'til the glue dries" -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 12/13/05 |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
In article ,
Doug Miller wrote: Any other ideas? Yep -- Flip-Bolts. Good one!... Those can save a lot time in the right application. Never seen them before...I guess I don't get out much, eh? Thanks, Doug. r |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
In article , Robatoy wrote:
In article , Doug Miller wrote: Any other ideas? Yep -- Flip-Bolts. Good one!... Those can save a lot time in the right application. Never seen them before...I guess I don't get out much, eh? I saw them for the first time about five weeks ago at the Woodworking Show. Thanks, Doug. Don't mention it. Glad to help. r -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corrugated fasteners.
Swingman wrote:
Now, if Norm was as bad as everyone say's, and was a REAL old time carpenter, the famous quote would be: "Just a few corrugated fasteners hammered in to hold it 'til the glue dries" Now that picture made me LMAO. I could just see it perfectly; Norm with glue all over his fingers and just bashing that fastener into place. Perfect! Robert |
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