I need to cut 7 or 8 ends (not sides) off 30" and 24" masonite.com 1-3/8"
hollow core 6-panel doors.
The mgr. at HD says the panel saw binds and twists against the mouldings b/c
it pressurizes inwards as it cuts.
I have a 1/3 sheet sander. But I'm gonna be cutting tops and bottoms
indesriminantly, and the pieces need to be stripped, and go back in, for
sure; something goes back. Doesn't matter what. Painting.

These are my current tool options:

1)a 10" TS w/ 200 tooth, or 36 tooth comb HSS blade
please note I do not have a helper when I need one. I do have a roller
stand, but ain't too good if not behind saw

2)router/ w/ table, 26 Ti-C bits
1/4" x 7/8" double flute straight
1/4" x 1-3/8"! double flute straight upsriral
3/8" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing)
1/2" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing)
1/2" x 3/4" split straight plungable double flute mortising
3/4" x 3/4" double flute straight

3)cheesy jigsaw
bunch o' blades

4)buy a circular saw (not wanted)

5)buy a router bit (works)

6)rent a circular saw (prob 1/3 the cost of buying one)

what can I do?



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"bent" wrote in message
...
Snip


These are my current tool options:

1)a 10" TS w/ 200 tooth, or 36 tooth comb HSS blade
please note I do not have a helper when I need one. I do have a roller
stand, but ain't too good if not behind saw

The problem here is that your saw will probably not have the capacity to cut
the doors with the KEEPER portion between the blade and the fence. You
would have to have the waste between the blade and the fence and with this
large of an object that is going to be hollow through the cut your results
will probably be less than desirable.


2)router/ w/ table, 26 Ti-C bits
1/4" x 7/8" double flute straight
1/4" x 1-3/8"! double flute straight upsriral
3/8" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing)
1/2" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing)
1/2" x 3/4" split straight plungable double flute mortising
3/4" x 3/4" double flute straight

Probably the best choice but with a 3/8" or larger carbide downward spiral
bit. DO THIS OUT OF THE TABLE and use a straight edge to guide the router.
Use a spacer block to set the distance from the bottom of the door to the
guide edge of the guide for a consistant measurement on both sides and ends.
Cut only deep enough to get through the panel on top and then flip the door
and go again. Then cut deeper to finish the cut where there is solid wood
the full thickness.


3)cheesy jigsaw
bunch o' blades

For get it if you want good results.

4)buy a circular saw (not wanted)

Probably going to splinter the top edge of the surface.


5)buy a router bit (works)

See above.

6)rent a circular saw (prob 1/3 the cost of buying one)

See above

I would buy the world's cheapest circular saw. You might be
surprised what else you could use it for, I would not rent ( I
can't imagine the rent and 2 trips to the store could come close
to the cost of a cheap saw). Borrow a friend's?? I don't
understand the store man's comment about a panel saw not working
well.

The table saw would work if you had full tables around, but not
with just a single stand.
Router could work if you have a long enough straight bit to go
through the door (1 3/8" residential, 1 3/4 commercial)
I would not use a jig saw.

It could be worth building an edge guide for the saw. Here is an
excellent model:
http://www.womeninwoodworking.com/ti...ingpoints7.cfm
though any straight edge clamped to the door will work. You
should score the cut with a utility knife before the saw cut to
help prevent chip out and/or raveling of the cut edge.

If you cut completely through the top or bottom rails in the door,
you will need a sharp chisel to try to reuse the rails in your
hollow door sections. You will need some glue and clamps. You
will probably need some sandpaper. Hope some of this helps. Here
is a sight explaining the process:
http://doityourself.com/doors/shortenadoor.htm
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"bent" wrote in message
...
I need to cut 7 or 8 ends (not sides) off 30" and 24"
masonite.com 1-3/8" hollow core 6-panel doors.
The mgr. at HD says the panel saw binds and twists against the
mouldings b/c it pressurizes inwards as it cuts.
I have a 1/3 sheet sander. But I'm gonna be cutting tops and
bottoms indesriminantly, and the pieces need to be stripped, and
go back in, for sure; something goes back. Doesn't matter what.
Painting.

These are my current tool options:

1)a 10" TS w/ 200 tooth, or 36 tooth comb HSS blade
please note I do not have a helper when I need one. I do have a
roller stand, but ain't too good if not behind saw

2)router/ w/ table, 26 Ti-C bits
1/4" x 7/8" double flute straight
1/4" x 1-3/8"! double flute straight upsriral
3/8" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing)
1/2" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing)
1/2" x 3/4" split straight plungable double flute mortising
3/4" x 3/4" double flute straight

3)cheesy jigsaw
bunch o' blades

4)buy a circular saw (not wanted)

5)buy a router bit (works)

6)rent a circular saw (prob 1/3 the cost of buying one)

what can I do?


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On Sun, 26 Feb 2006 13:15:11 -0500, "bent" wrote:

I need to cut 7 or 8 ends (not sides) off 30" and 24" masonite.com 1-3/8"
hollow core 6-panel doors.
The mgr. at HD says the panel saw binds and twists against the mouldings b/c
it pressurizes inwards as it cuts.

I'm not sure what the HD guy is talking about.
Is there molding that hangs out beyond the face of the door?
If these are just the standard imitation raised panel masonite doors
that are primed you can use about any method you like.
I always cut them on the table saw and don't bother to score them.
I have someone tail the door for me and use a stick to push the drop
through. Much easier to cut off than a regular old veneered door.

Mike O.

"bent" wrote in message
...
I need to cut 7 or 8 ends (not sides) off 30" and 24" masonite.com 1-3/8"
hollow core 6-panel doors.
The mgr. at HD says the panel saw binds and twists against the mouldings
b/c it pressurizes inwards as it cuts.

In my experience at the borg, the panel saw's problem is that they have the
dullest piece of crap blade installed and I am more than certain the saws
never get tuned.

If I were you, use a circular saw with a good blade and a straightedge
clamped to the door. Cover the area to be cut on both sides with masking
tape to prevent tearout and have at it. I did several doors in my house
with this method and had no problems.

bent wrote:
I need to cut 7 or 8 ends (not sides) off 30" and 24" masonite.com 1-3/8"
hollow core 6-panel doors.
The mgr. at HD says the panel saw binds and twists against the mouldings b/c
it pressurizes inwards as it cuts.

G'day Bent,
I'll not knock any of the suggestions you have received as each to own.
I, personally use the identical method as Frank.
One other suggestion which can save a lot of heartache, is to put a
screw into each end the of cut rail which you are going to re-use.
Not into the end grain, but about an inch in from each end. Leave the
screws protruding so that they are easy to grab. This way id the rail
happens to slip to far into the door as you are replacing it, it is easy
to pull it back a touch and flush it up. Once it's all clamped, remove
the screws.
regards
John

"Mike O." wrote in message
...

I'm not sure what the HD guy is talking about.
Is there molding that hangs out beyond the face of the door?
If these are just the standard imitation raised panel masonite doors
that are primed you can use about any method you like.
I always cut them on the table saw and don't bother to score them.
I have someone tail the door for me and use a stick to push the drop
through. Much easier to cut off than a regular old veneered door.

Mike O.

Probably referring to the appearance of moldings since this is a door with
the appearance of 6 panels. These come hollow core also.

Sun, Feb 26, 2006, 1:15pm (bent) doth stumble and
mumble:
snip what can I do?

You can start by explaining what
"indesriminantly" means.



JOAT
Never go to bed angry. Stay up and plot your revenge.

Using AutoCAD I drew the basic size of the 78" x 30" or 24" door, w/ all of
the panels measured to with in a 1/16". I need to cut off up to 6". I am
gonna cut both tops and bottoms so that they look good. The 4 doors can be
seen while standing in the same position. It is easy to take an idea, like,
since the top door rail is half the size of the bottom, remove 2" from the
top, and 4" from the bottom, and refine the idea. Its just not as simple as
1", 2", 4", 6" off though, and there are a lot of parameters. I set all 4
doors side by side on my 19" triny and can see whats going on. I can fine
tune. Its easy for me. In seconds I could make them 3D, w/ wood grain. It
means that if what I come up with requires me to leave just 1/16" of the
interior plug, then I'm gonna have to live with that. Don't know if I'll be
cutting solid or winging it.

A few HD employees have told me they aren't allowed to cut doors. The mgr.
cut my 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" 4x8 sheets of birch plywood for me. He made
them right. It wasn't a learning experience for him.

Spelling is another story. I probably use words others never do too.



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to make along story short, real short, of the 12 side and top jambs from
3/4" mdf 4x8 sheet I had cut on the HD panel saw, I measured (.001" dial
caliper -$20 busybeetools.c - every thou is a good thou) and labeled every
one. The average of all errors of all ends of all pieces was .001". (not
two or 0)



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u know what is really ****ing me off is OE. I have only ever used OE and
agent for text groups. It must be agent, you can edit your post! I have
newsbin now -$30. It yencs seemlessly. I gonna have to check out its r.w
editing capabilities. I have never paid for agent. Maybe I can still get a
freeagent.



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u can insult someone and then deny it.



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