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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used
it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"Doug Miller" wrote in message . com... Perhaps, but it could just as easily be the circuit that it's plugged into. What you describe is more or less normal behavior when trying to use a tool that needs a 20-amp circuit, on a 15-amp circuit. Wouldn't that simply cause the brasker to trip??? |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. My guess it that the blade is dull. (or, (drumroll please...) on backwards) RAS are generally less powerful than TS, but even a feeble RAS should be able to cut a 2x4 easily enough. It is unlikely the motor would run at all if something were wrong with it. Make sure you have the blade on right, and then buy a decent blade. You can always use it on your new TS. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"Leon" wrote in message . com... "Doug Miller" wrote in message . com... Perhaps, but it could just as easily be the circuit that it's plugged into. What you describe is more or less normal behavior when trying to use a tool that needs a 20-amp circuit, on a 15-amp circuit. Wouldn't that simply cause the brasker to trip??? A small overload takes a while to trip a breaker. In the meanwhile the lights get dim and motors slow. But most radial arm saws are only 10-13a, so it probably is not the problem; unless the circuit had other big loads on it. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
In article , "Leon" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message .com... Perhaps, but it could just as easily be the circuit that it's plugged into. What you describe is more or less normal behavior when trying to use a tool that needs a 20-amp circuit, on a 15-amp circuit. Wouldn't that simply cause the brasker to trip??? Not if the motor pulls, say, 18 amps for a few seconds on startup, and 13 while running. Breakers do not normally trip under a small overload that lasts only a short time. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
In article , "Toller" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message .com... "Doug Miller" wrote in message . com... Perhaps, but it could just as easily be the circuit that it's plugged into. What you describe is more or less normal behavior when trying to use a tool that needs a 20-amp circuit, on a 15-amp circuit. Wouldn't that simply cause the brasker to trip??? A small overload takes a while to trip a breaker. In the meanwhile the lights get dim and motors slow. But most radial arm saws are only 10-13a, so it probably is not the problem; unless the circuit had other big loads on it. Yes, but that's 10-13 amps _while_running_. A saw that pulls 16 or 18 amps at startup will behave _exactly_ as the OP described., right down to the inability to take heavy cuts without stalling. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
RogWin54 wrote:
I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. It -might- be your motor, but electric motors are usually go/no-go. Does it make horrible squealing noises, like say, a bad bearing? Make sure the plug and all electrical connections are good. If the motor gets really hot, you may have a short inside. You may want to take the motor apart if you're knowledgable about doing that, or take it to an electric motor shop. It'll still be cheaper than a new saw. Check the voltage, as someone else has mentioned. It should be stamped on the motor. If it's switchable, make sure it's wired for the voltage you've plugged it into. Also, make sure the motor is rated for 60 Hz (or whatever your local frequency is), and it's not some funky import or custom saw. You can go to owwm.com to see if they have the manual for your saw there on line. You could've also posted the model here, as others may have one like yours. -- Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
This could also be caused by using an extension cord that is not rated for
the current. I have an air compressor that will only run right if plugged in directly, or with a 15A extension cord. El cheapo cords won't cut it. "RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
This could also be caused by using an extension cord that is not rated for
the current. I have an air compressor that will only run right if plugged in directly, or with a 15A extension cord. El cheapo cords won't cut it. "RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
This could also be caused by using an extension cord that is not rated for
the current. I have an air compressor that will only run right if plugged in directly, or with a 15A extension cord. El cheapo cords won't cut it. "RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Make sure you have the blade on right, and then buy a decent blade. You can
always use it on your new TS. Gee, I dunno' about that. I thought the rake angle was set differently for the two types of saws. -Zz |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Yeah, it's like you gotta cut 3 times before it works.
grins -Zz On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 01:56:43 GMT, "Drew" wrote: This could also be caused by using an extension cord that is not rated for the current. I have an air compressor that will only run right if plugged in directly, or with a 15A extension cord. El cheapo cords won't cut it. "RogWin54" wrote in message . .. I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
This could also be caused by using an extension cord that is not rated for the current. Yah, could be except sounds like the father-in-law had the same problem. Maybe cord to motor has broken strands, switch could be bad, are bearings binding? either of these should cause the reset button on the motor to trip. I have a 30+ year old Craftsman RAS that cuts fine only problem is watching that it doesn't pull its' self into the work too fast and stall on heavy stuff, especially Oak. Was going to say it is on a 15 amp circuit but I believe it is now on a 20 amp. Walt Conner |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
I would surmise that this could be a bad motor starting capacitor.
Marv "RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"Doug Miller" wrote in message . com... Wouldn't that simply cause the brasker to trip??? Not if the motor pulls, say, 18 amps for a few seconds on startup, and 13 while running. Breakers do not normally trip under a small overload that lasts only a short time. I agree but I was under the impression that you thinking that the saw was pulling 20 amp all the time. I would think that with all the stalling, the motor would blow the breaker. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"Zz Yzx" wrote in message ... Make sure you have the blade on right, and then buy a decent blade. You can always use it on your new TS. Gee, I dunno' about that. I thought the rake angle was set differently for the two types of saws. It is on crosscut blades; -5 for RAS and 10 for TS. But I used 10 on my RAS for a while before I bought a -5 and it wasn't that big a deal. Likewise, a -5 would work on a TS, it just wouldn't cut as fast. Don't know about rip; but it seems like they ought to be the same. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
how old is the saw?
i got a 1954 dewalt (amf years) for 50 bucks, thought i had a great deal. as it turns out motors peter out over time - sitting idle for years doesn't help. I found a guy in iowa who would recondition it for somewhere around a grand including shipping. hell of a deal. buy a new saw |
#18
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
how old is the saw?
i got a 1954 dewalt (amf years) for 50 bucks, thought i had a great deal. as it turns out motors peter out over time - sitting idle for years doesn't help. I found a guy in iowa who would recondition it for somewhere around a grand including shipping. hell of a deal. buy a new saw |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"Suanne Lippman" wrote in message ... My guess it that the blade is dull. (or, (drumroll please...) on backwards) Possibly. RAS are generally less powerful than TS, but even a feeble RAS should be able to cut a 2x4 easily enough. Huh?? HP rating dictates that. You have to compare apples to apples. You could just as easily say that a TS is generally less powerful than a RAS. It is unlikely the motor would run at all if something were wrong with it. Make sure you have the blade on right, and then buy a decent blade. You can always use it on your new TS. Not likely. If buying a common TS blade and using on a RAS the results may be the same as described by the OP. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 04:15:51 GMT, "Toller" wrote:
"Zz Yzx" wrote in message .. . Make sure you have the blade on right, and then buy a decent blade. You can always use it on your new TS. Gee, I dunno' about that. I thought the rake angle was set differently for the two types of saws. It is on crosscut blades; -5 for RAS and 10 for TS. But I used 10 on my RAS for a while before I bought a -5 and it wasn't that big a deal. Likewise, a -5 would work on a TS, it just wouldn't cut as fast. Don't know about rip; but it seems like they ought to be the same. The negative hook angle for radial arm saws is primarily for safety, to diminish the propensity to climb that RAS exhibit. |
#21
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
It could be that you are running it on an excessively long 14 gauge wire
from your electric panel - The saw requires about 12 amps running, but can draw about 20 on start-up. On a long wire it's resistance could rob you of the power that you need. Try to connect it to a heavy extension cord plugged into an outlet close to your electric panel or measure the voltage at the saw with it running - if not at least 90 volts (on a 120 circuit) you have a problem. It could be that the blade is slipping - check the flatness of the washers on both sides of the blade and reverse the surfaces that touch the blade. I once had a saw with a cupped washer and if I didn't get it on right the blade would slip. It could be that you have the blade on backwards - This sounds like a dumb suggestion, but I've now fixed 2 radial arm saws by turning the blade over. They cut a lot better afterwards. One was owned by a neighbor and the other by a guy that I worked with. It could be that one of the capacitors in your motor is bad - some saws have both a start capacitor and a run capacitor. They're hard to test and not very expensive. Whenever I suspect that I have a bad one, I replace it. Your local electric motor shop can help with the replacement, testing, etc. -- Charley "RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 00:00:42 GMT, lid (RogWin54) wrote:
I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. remembering my problems when I bought a used RAS... belt could also be bad or loose... little sucker that didn't LOOK adjustable but was.. *g* Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. In addition to all the other excellent suggestions, check the brushes in the motor. I replaced all extension cords in my shop with 10 ga cords years ago so I never have to worry about what's plugged in where. gwidman |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , lid (RogWin54) wrote: I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He tolme I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. You said you checked the blade alignment... how about the sharpness of the blade? And, while we're at it... is the blade installed correctly? I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. Perhaps, but it could just as easily be the circuit that it's plugged into. What you describe is more or less normal behavior when trying to use a tool that needs a 20-amp circuit, on a 15-amp circuit. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Only if something's wrong. :-) Is it possible that the motor is wired (internally) for 240V and it's plugged into a 120V circuit? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. Not even gonna think about starting *that* discussion, thank you very much. grin He's talking about a radial arm saw. Not much chance that the saw needs 20 A. It sounds exactly like something is wrong with the motor. |
#26
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Suanne Lippman wrote:
"RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. My guess it that the blade is dull. (or, (drumroll please...) on backwards) RAS are generally less powerful than TS, but even a feeble RAS should be able to cut a 2x4 easily enough. It is unlikely the motor would run at all if something were wrong with it. Make sure you have the blade on right, and then buy a decent blade. You can always use it on your new TS. Got a point. Maybe he does have the blade on backwards. Only two possibilities, the (1) blade -- dull, on backwards, or something, or (2) the motor-- burned winding, bad contacts, etc. But we already know there something wrong with the motor since it starts slow and takes a while to speed up. Something is seriously wrong if he can't cut 3/4" wood rapidly. |
#27
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "Toller" wrote: "Leon" wrote in message y.com... "Doug Miller" wrote in message gy.com... Perhaps, but it could just as easily be the circuit that it's plugged into. What you describe is more or less normal behavior when trying to use a tool that needs a 20-amp circuit, on a 15-amp circuit. Wouldn't that simply cause the brasker to trip??? A small overload takes a while to trip a breaker. In the meanwhile the lights get dim and motors slow. But most radial arm saws are only 10-13a, so it probably is not the problem; unless the circuit had other big loads on it. Yes, but that's 10-13 amps _while_running_. A saw that pulls 16 or 18 amps at startup will behave _exactly_ as the OP described., right down to the inability to take heavy cuts without stalling. Maintain your position at all costs, even if it makes you look stupid. Have you ever owned or used a radial arm saw to any extent? Doesn't sound like it. |
#28
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Leon wrote:
"Suanne Lippman" wrote in message ... My guess it that the blade is dull. (or, (drumroll please...) on backwards) Possibly. RAS are generally less powerful than TS, but even a feeble RAS should be able to cut a 2x4 easily enough. Huh?? HP rating dictates that. You have to compare apples to apples. You could just as easily say that a TS is generally less powerful than a RAS. You could say that, but it wouldn't be true. It is unlikely the motor would run at all if something were wrong with it. Make sure you have the blade on right, and then buy a decent blade. You can always use it on your new TS. Not likely. If buying a common TS blade and using on a RAS the results may be the same as described by the OP. Likely. I have never bought a blade specifically for my radial arm saw, in fact, I doubt that they even made special blades when I bought my RAS. I never saw a Wards or Sears blade that said it was for a RAS. I have always used the same blades on my radial arm saw and table saw. Using a table saw blade on a RAS does not result in what the OP described. Not to put a fine point on it, but since most people here hate RAS and don't have them, where do people come up with all this nonsense about RAS? |
#29
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Gwidman wrote:
"RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. In addition to all the other excellent suggestions, check the brushes in the motor. I replaced all extension cords in my shop with 10 ga cords years ago so I never have to worry about what's plugged in where. gwidman Burned or worn brushes or broken brush springs could explain the motor behavior but that may be just part of the problem. Simple enough to just replace brushes, assuming it is a brush type motor. |
#30
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
Could be dull blade, backwards blade, blade not tight, bearings dry and
tight, brush motor with worn brushes, wrong voltage. You need to check each item out to eliminate them. "RogWin54" wrote in message .. . I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. |
#31
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message ... Burned or worn brushes or broken brush springs could explain the motor behavior but that may be just part of the problem. Simple enough to just replace brushes, assuming it is a brush type motor. I could be wrong here and you seem to be an expert concerning RAS's but um I have not seen one that uses brushes. The only RAS motor that I have seen use induction motors, not universal motors. |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"Leon" wrote in message t... "George E. Cawthon" wrote in message ... Burned or worn brushes or broken brush springs could explain the motor behavior but that may be just part of the problem. Simple enough to just replace brushes, assuming it is a brush type motor. I could be wrong here and you seem to be an expert concerning RAS's but um I have not seen one that uses brushes. The only RAS motor that I have seen use induction motors, not universal motors. You are. PowerKraft (Wards) saws did. 20K motors with an aux routing spindle. Not only that, had the switch in the hand grip intead of up on the beam. Mine's still crosscutting, but I quit ripping on it when I bought the table saw. The described malfunction smells like capacitor or inertial switch, though, which would indicate an induction motor. |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
"George" George@least wrote in message ... You are. PowerKraft (Wards) saws did. 20K motors with an aux routing spindle. Not only that, had the switch in the hand grip intead of up on the beam. Mine's still crosscutting, but I quit ripping on it when I bought the table saw. The described malfunction smells like capacitor or inertial switch, though, which would indicate an induction motor. Well I should have said, that most are induction and that ones with brushes were an exception. I am with you on the thoughts of what may be wrong. Motors with brushes are probably about as rare as TS with the flexible shaft drive. They are out there but not the norm. Totally discounting however the knot head on "Woodworking" that thinks his Sliding CMS is a RAS. |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
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#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote:
He's talking about a radial arm saw. Not much chance that the saw needs 20 A. It sounds exactly like something is wrong with the motor. I know perfectly well what he's talking about, and it's quite *likely* that the saw needs a circuit wired with 12-ga or heavier wire (which implies a 20A circuit) in order for the blade to spin up quickly. A radial arm saw plugged into a 15A circuit will behave *exactly* as the OP describes. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , "Toller" wrote: "Leon" wrote in message gy.com... "Doug Miller" wrote in message igy.com... Perhaps, but it could just as easily be the circuit that it's plugged into. What you describe is more or less normal behavior when trying to use a tool that needs a 20-amp circuit, on a 15-amp circuit. Wouldn't that simply cause the brasker to trip??? A small overload takes a while to trip a breaker. In the meanwhile the lights get dim and motors slow. But most radial arm saws are only 10-13a, so it probably is not the problem; unless the circuit had other big loads on it. Yes, but that's 10-13 amps _while_running_. A saw that pulls 16 or 18 amps at startup will behave _exactly_ as the OP described., right down to the inability to take heavy cuts without stalling. Maintain your position at all costs, even if it makes you look stupid. Have you ever owned or used a radial arm saw to any extent? Doesn't sound like it. Do you actually have a point to make, George, or are you capable of nothing more than ad hominem comments? I've had a RAS for more than 20 years, it sees regular use... and I know from experience that it behaves in a similar manner to that described by the OP, when plugged into a 15A circuit. What experience, if any, with radial arm saws do you have, that would suggest the contrary? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
I have seen one (1) RAS with a belt, can't remember the brand now it was
some foreign make though. The motor was offset from the blade arbor about 1 1/2 inch or so. ( take a look at an old Milwaukee miter saw) It seemed like a good idea to me, allowed you to change motors with out having to buy a special set up and should have been cheaper to make, standard motor instead of custom set up. "Doug Miller" wrote in message m... In article , wrote: remembering my problems when I bought a used RAS... belt could also be bad or loose... little sucker that didn't LOOK adjustable but was.. *g* Belt?? That's a new one on me... never saw a RAS that had the blade mounted any way other than directly on the motor shaft... -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
On Thu, 09 Feb 2006 14:39:28 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , wrote: remembering my problems when I bought a used RAS... belt could also be bad or loose... little sucker that didn't LOOK adjustable but was.. *g* Belt?? That's a new one on me... never saw a RAS that had the blade mounted any way other than directly on the motor shaft... Yep.. surprised the hell out of me, too... When I got my Monkey Wards Power Kraft at a garage sale, I put a new blade on it an it cut ok, but really has the feel of a belt slipping... It couldn't be, of course, because I'd never seen a RSAS with a belt, either, so I didn't check that.. *lol* Then I noticed that the center of the blade was about 3 inches below the center of the motor and dropped the end panel.. sure as hell, a little belt about 3/8" by maybe 8"... lol Loosened the bolts, dropped the blade down a bit and it was good to go.. Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
RogWin54 wrote: I got an older radial arm saw from my father-in-law. He hasn't used it much for some time. I tried cutting 2x4s with the blade he recommended. It jammed the blade. I've tried cutting 1/4" plywood, 1/2" molding, small pieces of wood, etc. It can not cut through a whole piece of wood without stalling or jamming. He told me I had to cut it in small increments but it takes all day to get any thing done. I cut 1/4" depth at a time then lower the blade and do it again just to get it to work. I noticed the rotation of the blade seems to be slow but if I let it sit a minute running it will start picking up speed and rotate much faster. I suspect something is wrong with the electric motor. I've aligned the blade several times so it is not the problem. Anyone know what is wrong or do they really work this way? Beginning to think I should have just bought a table saw. thanks. Sounds to me like the saw is wired for 220 volts and you have it connected to 110. Check with your father-in-law about the circuit he had it connected to or if he had the same problem. It may have been wired for 220 before he got it, expecially if he got it used. Good luck. |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Radial Arm Saw not cutting well
George wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message t... "George E. Cawthon" wrote in message ... Burned or worn brushes or broken brush springs could explain the motor behavior but that may be just part of the problem. Simple enough to just replace brushes, assuming it is a brush type motor. I could be wrong here and you seem to be an expert concerning RAS's but um I have not seen one that uses brushes. The only RAS motor that I have seen use induction motors, not universal motors. You are. PowerKraft (Wards) saws did. 20K motors with an aux routing spindle. Not only that, had the switch in the hand grip intead of up on the beam. Mine's still crosscutting, but I quit ripping on it when I bought the table saw. The described malfunction smells like capacitor or inertial switch, though, which would indicate an induction motor. Yep, Wards used universal motors. But I have several older fractional motors that use brushes. Some motor types in addition to universal motors use brushes, and bad brushes in one of my fractional motors (1/2hp I think) produced much the same symptom (one really messed up brush and spring contact). Burned start switch (inertial switch) contacts produce slow or no starting, but once started have no effect on power. |
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