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Jay Pique
 
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Default Shrink-proof Beadboard

I'm to be putting up some wide beadboard and had a couple of questions.
The design is identical to standard beadboard/wainscotting, but the
boards are to be much wider - 10 to 12".
http://store.yahoo.com/vintagewoodworks/beadboard.html shows what it
looks like.

Given the width, I'm very concerned about seasonal dimensional/moisture
content change, since I'm looking at the existing work with full 1/4"
gaps between them! There has also been cupping and, frankly, it looks
like ****. I don't want my work to look like ****. I've been thinking
of tracking down some quarter-sawn Eastern White Pine to minimize the
movement and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions. (It's
to be painted, BTW.)

I don't mind profiling it myself, but I've not got the jointer to
handle 12" boards. Could I just use MDF or FinnPly?

JP
****************************************
sorry charlie, back on my meds...

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John B
 
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Default Shrink-proof Beadboard

Jay Pique wrote:
I'm to be putting up some wide beadboard and had a couple of questions.
The design is identical to standard beadboard/wainscotting, but the
boards are to be much wider - 10 to 12".
http://store.yahoo.com/vintagewoodworks/beadboard.html shows what it
looks like.

Given the width, I'm very concerned about seasonal dimensional/moisture
content change, since I'm looking at the existing work with full 1/4"
gaps between them! There has also been cupping and, frankly, it looks
like ****. I don't want my work to look like ****. I've been thinking
of tracking down some quarter-sawn Eastern White Pine to minimize the
movement and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions. (It's
to be painted, BTW.)

I don't mind profiling it myself, but I've not got the jointer to
handle 12" boards. Could I just use MDF or FinnPly?

JP
****************************************
sorry charlie, back on my meds...

G'day Jay,
I would suggest that MDF is the way to go.
Here in AUST. we can purchase it it pre primed and ready to go.
regards
John
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professorpaul
 
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Default Shrink-proof Beadboard

I did some a couple of years ago. It was Masonite (tempered hardboard).
Tounge and grove stuff. Builder's adhesive, and coaxed it into place
with a rubber mallet. Nail top and bottom where it would go under
molding. Pre-primed. Looks great. Pieces were about 9-10" wide, and 8'
long. I cut it into 4' pieces for a hallway to take care of little
hands that seem to want to hold the walls up. Took a remarkable amount
of paint to look good -- maybe 3 coats of semi-gloss latex enamel..

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Jay Pique
 
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Default Shrink-proof Beadboard


professorpaul wrote:
I did some a couple of years ago. It was Masonite (tempered hardboard).
Tounge and grove stuff. Builder's adhesive, and coaxed it into place
with a rubber mallet. Nail top and bottom where it would go under
molding. Pre-primed. Looks great. Pieces were about 9-10" wide, and 8'
long. I cut it into 4' pieces for a hallway to take care of little
hands that seem to want to hold the walls up. Took a remarkable amount
of paint to look good -- maybe 3 coats of semi-gloss latex enamel.


Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm going to go with MDF for sure,
primarily because of the stability. I haven't looked for a source of
preprimed (and premilled) 10" MDF beadboard yet - is it commonly
available?

JP
***************************
I heart Insomniacs.

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