hi all experts out there,

what is usually used to seal mahogany wood? or is sealing necessary for
mahogany
at all?

what kind of oils are used to treat wood? usually what oil is used on
what wood, and
why?

i'm rather ingnorant about all this, but i somehow don't like stains,
wood that seems
to be treated with some kind of oil does look natural and gives a nice
feeling about
the material quality of wood to me.

advices, suggestions, views, opinions, and whatever any one cares to
tell me are all
most welcome!

On 2006-01-15, wrote:
hi all experts out there,


Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.

Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:37:57 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Charles Krug quickly quoth:

On 2006-01-15, wrote:
hi all experts out there,

ZZ, go pick up a quart of Waterlox Original. I degloss it with
0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax. The oil in the Waterlox
highlights the grain, leaves a smooth feel, and is easy to apply.
Finishing (and finish) just doesn't get any better.


Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.

Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.

He'd be -much- better off with Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes",
Charles.

P.S: Flexner's name doesn't contain an "o."


----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== =========

Larry,

I love quick and easy finishes that achieve good results and will last. Gee,
how novel is that?

I'm relatively new (2 years now) I've come to really like rub on satin poly
by minwax with several coats of paste wax afterwards as a way of finishing.
I built a jewelry box for my wife out of cherry, put on 3 coats of the rub
on satin poly, two coats of paste wax & buffed it out and it looks like
someone who knew what they were doing did it.

Never heard of the "Waterlox" stuff, is it a varnish/oil, a blend of two or
more things. You're enthusiasm with using it is makes me interested in
hearing more about it.

I've have also read (have yet to try it) more than a few articles in the ww
mags etc that say using a combination of dye first, then stain as a base
produces a beautiful foundation before top coating, this is something I was
going to try next. Any thoughts on that? Anyone?

I too appreciate any and all advise, I read lots of things, I have the book
Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner that Charles recommended also.
It seems like a good one, though it goes a bit deeper into the science and
chemistry of how finishing works than I think I'll ever need to know. I
would prefer something more concise that looks at lots of ways to finish
wood but spares me the science.

A book that just tells me what the pros/cons are of each approach or type of
finish have. Just as important I would like to see illustrated, detailed,
how to instructions on how to achieve great results. I would really like to
see one of these books focus on how to appraoch a project with many sides,
corners, cureved or rounded pieces, what to do first, second, third on a
given project and how that might change as the shape or size of the project
changes. Especially procedures with projects whose geometric shapes or the
state of assembly they are in make it difficult to know just what you should
do first, second etc. Also, how to store or hang or hold up difficult pieces
so as many sices can be done at once as possible. And when you are finishing
one side first and the opposite side second, how to finish up to the edge or
corner without dripping on the part you don't want to apply any finish to
yet. Is masking it ok, what kind of masking etc. I would like a book that
addresses the physical logistics of finishing as much as types and
procedures and techniques of applying finish. These things are what puzzles
me most of all and Bob Flexner's book doesn't seem to spend much if any time
explaining these rudimentary but absolutely necessary skils and techniques.

Any books that dedicate sufficient time and space to these things I would
love to get my hands on. Any suggestions?

RangerPaul

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:37:57 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Charles Krug quickly quoth:

On 2006-01-15, wrote:
hi all experts out there,

ZZ, go pick up a quart of Waterlox Original. I degloss it with
0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax. The oil in the Waterlox
highlights the grain, leaves a smooth feel, and is easy to apply.
Finishing (and finish) just doesn't get any better.


Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.

Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.

He'd be -much- better off with Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes",
Charles.

P.S: Flexner's name doesn't contain an "o."


----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== =========

wow, a lot of ideas, thanks a whole lot guys!

i'll keep reading this group, and also go look for those good books!

thank you! great people, great info, great group!

Seems like you'e like someone to do it for you... :)

"Ranger Paul" wrote in message
...
Larry,

I love quick and easy finishes that achieve good results and will last.
Gee, how novel is that?

I'm relatively new (2 years now) I've come to really like rub on satin
poly by minwax with several coats of paste wax afterwards as a way of
finishing. I built a jewelry box for my wife out of cherry, put on 3 coats
of the rub on satin poly, two coats of paste wax & buffed it out and it
looks like someone who knew what they were doing did it.

Never heard of the "Waterlox" stuff, is it a varnish/oil, a blend of two
or more things. You're enthusiasm with using it is makes me interested in
hearing more about it.

I've have also read (have yet to try it) more than a few articles in the
ww mags etc that say using a combination of dye first, then stain as a
base produces a beautiful foundation before top coating, this is something
I was going to try next. Any thoughts on that? Anyone?

I too appreciate any and all advise, I read lots of things, I have the
book Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner that Charles recommended
also. It seems like a good one, though it goes a bit deeper into the
science and chemistry of how finishing works than I think I'll ever need
to know. I would prefer something more concise that looks at lots of ways
to finish wood but spares me the science.

A book that just tells me what the pros/cons are of each approach or type
of finish have. Just as important I would like to see illustrated,
detailed, how to instructions on how to achieve great results. I would
really like to see one of these books focus on how to appraoch a project
with many sides, corners, cureved or rounded pieces, what to do first,
second, third on a given project and how that might change as the shape or
size of the project changes. Especially procedures with projects whose
geometric shapes or the state of assembly they are in make it difficult to
know just what you should do first, second etc. Also, how to store or hang
or hold up difficult pieces so as many sices can be done at once as
possible. And when you are finishing one side first and the opposite side
second, how to finish up to the edge or corner without dripping on the
part you don't want to apply any finish to yet. Is masking it ok, what
kind of masking etc. I would like a book that addresses the physical
logistics of finishing as much as types and procedures and techniques of
applying finish. These things are what puzzles me most of all and Bob
Flexner's book doesn't seem to spend much if any time explaining these
rudimentary but absolutely necessary skils and techniques.

Any books that dedicate sufficient time and space to these things I would
love to get my hands on. Any suggestions?

RangerPaul

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:37:57 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Charles Krug quickly quoth:

On 2006-01-15, wrote:
hi all experts out there,

ZZ, go pick up a quart of Waterlox Original. I degloss it with
0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax. The oil in the Waterlox
highlights the grain, leaves a smooth feel, and is easy to apply.
Finishing (and finish) just doesn't get any better.


Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.

Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.

He'd be -much- better off with Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes",
Charles.

P.S: Flexner's name doesn't contain an "o."


----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== =========

On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 14:16:12 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Ranger Paul" quickly quoth:

Larry,

I love quick and easy finishes that achieve good results and will last. Gee,
how novel is that?

I'm relatively new (2 years now) I've come to really like rub on satin poly
by minwax with several coats of paste wax afterwards as a way of finishing.
I built a jewelry box for my wife out of cherry, put on 3 coats of the rub
on satin poly, two coats of paste wax & buffed it out and it looks like
someone who knew what they were doing did it.

Stain and poly are their own punishment.


Never heard of the "Waterlox" stuff, is it a varnish/oil, a blend of two or
more things. You're enthusiasm with using it is makes me interested in
hearing more about it.

It's a blend of tung and linseed oils combined with varnish. Quick
drying, tough, waterproof. The best stuff since sliced bread.
www.waterlox.com I use only the non-poly Original finish in medium
gloss. Because I prefer a non-glossy, touchable wood finish, I use
steel wool to degloss it to a "satin" finish.


I've have also read (have yet to try it) more than a few articles in the ww
mags etc that say using a combination of dye first, then stain as a base
produces a beautiful foundation before top coating, this is something I was
going to try next. Any thoughts on that? Anyone?

Gag me with a spoon. (I hate stains.


I too appreciate any and all advise, I read lots of things, I have the book
Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner that Charles recommended also.
It seems like a good one, though it goes a bit deeper into the science and
chemistry of how finishing works than I think I'll ever need to know. I
would prefer something more concise that looks at lots of ways to finish
wood but spares me the science.

Take a look at Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes", too. I read those two
and Dresdner's "Woodfinishing Book" (now replaced by the New
Woodfinishing Book) but the only one I really liked was Jewitt's.
All contained good info but Jeff's was the most complete to me.


Also, how to store or hang or hold up difficult pieces
so as many sices can be done at once as possible.

Build one or both of these:

1) A finishing/assembly table on casters.
2) A pair of 123 boxes. They're 1' by 2' by 3' and will give you
platforms 1, 2, or 3' tall when you lay a piece of MDF or plywood
over them. Adjust them to the height you want to work around, like
12x18x28" or something.


--And remember the first and last rule of finishing, Paul.--

NEVER, EVER RUSH A FINISH.

It's the quickest way to totally ruin a piece you've slaved over,
nursed, and babied for days/weeks/months. (Or in my case, years.
Tell your client/friend/spouse to go sit on their hands until you say
the project is ready for use. Do the finish, wait 1 or more days
between coats for curing time (depending upon the finish) and then let
it set a week or more before taking it into the house. Finishes need
time to breathe and offgas and cure. Rushing it will end up with a
tablecloth stuck to the table, ruining the finish. Or there will be
complaints about the stinky finish, chemical smells, etc.
Just say "NO!"


----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== =========