Howdy,

Newbie quesiton for neanderthals and their sympathizers:
I have access to stanley No. 4 and No. 5 hand planes. My goal is to be
able to mill poplar hardwood four-square with hand tools. I have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane. Any recommendations?

Bonus Question (extra credit): If I buy quasi-smooth but not flat,
lumber from a place like Home Depot, can I get away without using a
scrub plane?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

John

Mighty Quinn wrote:
Newbie quesiton for neanderthals and their sympathizers:
I have access to stanley No. 4 and No. 5 hand planes. My goal is to be
able to mill poplar hardwood four-square with hand tools. I have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane. Any recommendations?


# 7 jointer, You'll wish you had it if you buy the scrubber. Besides,
by the time you get done with that # 7, you may have the money for the
Scrub.

Bonus Question (extra credit): If I buy quasi-smooth but not flat,
lumber from a place like Home Depot, can I get away without using a
scrub plane?


Maybe you could smooth with a # 4, then use a scraper.

Tom in KY, Neander and all :-)

"Mighty Quinn" wrote in news:1137268841.490983.139550
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Howdy,

Newbie quesiton for neanderthals and their sympathizers:
I have access to stanley No. 4 and No. 5 hand planes. My goal is to be
able to mill poplar hardwood four-square with hand tools. I have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane. Any recommendations?

Bonus Question (extra credit): If I buy quasi-smooth but not flat,
lumber from a place like Home Depot, can I get away without using a
scrub plane?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

John



I use the jointer plane much more frequently than the scrub. What you
build, and where you obtain your semi-raw materials would influence what
you should do next. If you buy BORG materials, I don't see that the scrub
would be all that useful to you yet.

Patriarch

"Mighty Quinn" wrote:

Howdy,

Newbie quesiton for neanderthals and their sympathizers:
I have access to stanley No. 4 and No. 5 hand planes. My goal is to be
able to mill poplar hardwood four-square with hand tools. I have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane. Any recommendations?

Go for the #7. If you later decide you need a scrub, you can cobble
one together without too much trouble. Don't need a lot of
manufacturing precision. Of buy another old iron for the #4, grind it
convex, and move the frog back to open the mouth when you need a
scrub.

Making a workable jointer plane, while certainly doable, is not an
easy novice project.

Besides, I think you would get more use from the #7.

Bonus Question (extra credit): If I buy quasi-smooth but not flat,
lumber from a place like Home Depot, can I get away without using a
scrub plane?

Yes. But get the flattest you can, and cut to near final dimensions
before flattening to minimize the amount of material you have to
remove.


--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

On 14 Jan 2006 12:00:41 -0800, "Mighty Quinn"
wrote:

Howdy,

Newbie quesiton for neanderthals and their sympathizers:
I have access to stanley No. 4 and No. 5 hand planes. My goal is to be
able to mill poplar hardwood four-square with hand tools. I have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane. Any recommendations?

You can put in a blade that's ground convex, set the chip breaker back
and open the mouth all the way on either the #4 or #5 and pretend it's
a scrub. You can't add 6" inches to them and pretend they are
jointers. In fact you can even wait until another #4 mysteriously
shows up in the shop (which it will) and dedicate whichever one is
worse to the task.


-Leuf

Square Eye wrote:

I*have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane.**Any*recommendations?


# 7 jointer, You'll wish you had it if you buy the scrubber. Besides,
by the time you get done with that # 7, you may have the money for the
Scrub.

Or if you can find one, an old #8.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

On 14 Jan 2006 12:00:41 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, "Mighty
Quinn" quickly quoth:

Howdy,

Newbie quesiton for neanderthals and their sympathizers:
I have access to stanley No. 4 and No. 5 hand planes. My goal is to be
able to mill poplar hardwood four-square with hand tools. I have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane. Any recommendations?

#7. And pick up a copy of Alex Bealer's "Old Ways of Working Wood"
while you're shopping, maybe $2 on eBay.


Bonus Question (extra credit): If I buy quasi-smooth but not flat,
lumber from a place like Home Depot, can I get away without using a
scrub plane?

Definitely.


----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== =========

Or buy another old iron for the #4, grind it
convex, and move the frog back to open the mouth when you need a
scrub.

I did just that, and it serves me quite well (although every time I see a
scrub plane, I lust after it, but then, I have two jointers already).

--
John Snow
"Pull hard and it comes easy"

On 14 Jan 2006 12:00:41 -0800, "Mighty Quinn" wrote:

I have
budget enough for either a used No. 40 scrub plane or a used No. 7
jointer plane. Any recommendations?

Get the best one. If you can't afford lots, at least get one you can
hang onto and won't be looking to replace within a year. Neither is so
expensive that you can't plan to afford both fairly soon.

You'll probably find the #7 to be more valuable to have. This isn't
because it's more useful (I use my scrub plane far more) but because you
can easily make your own scrub plane. Get a dog-rough $5 yard-sale #4
(a #3 is even better), open the mouth up and sharpen the iron (even a
recent Stanley iron is good enough) with about three times as much crown
on it as you think it could possibly need. Then refinish the handles,
because if you're scrub planing you can be putting a ot of work into
that plane and you want a finish (Danish oil IMHO) which doesn't wear
your skin off.

Obviously don't do this to a decent plane, or a Sweetheart iron...

Pardon my ignorance, but what's a "scrub plane"?

I have a nice Record #5 jack plane, and I've considered getting a jointer plane for surfacing tabletops, but my #5 does such a
nice job I can't justify the co$t...


It removes lots of wood down to the dimensions you want, or just before.
It's got a very thick blade and wide open mouth. It's a "material remover"
from hell.

Makers:
http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/

http://www.leevalley.com/

As far as why to buy a jointer plane... the reason involves technique in
flattening stock so smooth it cab be jointed. A long plane rides up on
top of the hills and planes them down to flatness, past the valleys. If you
buy stock that is already flat, don't worry about it.

Buy this book:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3421

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

If you look at this book at the same site, he's using a scrubber right on the cover:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5310
Just click: "Preview This Book"

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

In article HyFyf.10530$eR.7229@fed1read03, AAvK
wrote:

Makers:
http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/

http://www.leevalley.com/

I've got a beta version of Steve Knight's scrub plane. It's a hellluva
wood remover. Steve's massive irons are incredible.

http://www.knight-toolworks.com/wooden.htm#Scrub

--
"The thing about saying the wrong words is that A, I don't notice it, and B,
sometimes orange water gibbon bucket and plastic." -- Mr. Burrows

I've got a beta version of Steve Knight's scrub plane. It's a hellluva
wood remover. Steve's massive irons are incredible.

http://www.knight-toolworks.com/wooden.htm#Scrub


OK well there is another one, I had forgotten.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Thanks. Judging from the photo on the cover of the book you referenced,
it looks like the iron is sharpened to be "round" (convex), no?


That's exactly it. It's called a "crowned" cutting edge. It can be sharpened on a
concave slipstone by hand, and a 'spinning or not' leather strop, use rendered
beef fat (small amount) and cheap emery cake abrasive in the leather.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/