Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Mike

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Like sanding a dining room table, sanding just the rough spots on the table
saw would likely leave you with a table with low spots... unless the rough
spots happen to stand proud (which seems unlikely). For a do itself fix,
assuming the rough spots are causing a material problem, and are not only
rough but generally below the rest of the surface, filling the area with
epoxy body filler and then dressing to match up with the rest of the table
would be the way to go. Alternatively, having the surface planed by a
machine $hop is also an option. And of course, if the machine is under
warranty the company may make good on it if the flatness is out of spec.

John

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Mike


A little food for thought here and Laguna Signature series backs up my
thoughts on the subject.

While the more expensive saws do have a smoother surface IMHO this is not a
plus when sliding wood over the top. I currently own a Jet Cabinet saw and
it has a very smooth table surface. It replaced a Craftsman contractors saw
with a cast iron top. The Craftsman surface is similar to what you
described. You could basically see and feel the grind marks. The Craftsman
when coated with TopCote had much less resistance when pushing wood over the
surface than my Jet coated with TopCote. Basically there is more contact
with the wood on a smoother surface that creates drag.
Laguna demonstrates how the tops of their saws are kept in storage until it
is to be attached to a TS. At that time they surface the top and etch the
top so that it is not glass smooth. The reason for doing this is to cut
down on surface friction so that the wood pushes more easily over the
surface.
Try TopCote or the Empire product to protect the top from rust and to cut
down on friction. Personally I never was impressed with wax after using a
product specifically formulated to prevent rust and reduce friction.

I'm just wondering if I have a legitimate gripe with Delta. I put a
straight edge to it and I can't see any high or low spots and I can't
measure any with a feeler gauge, but I'm guessing the more expensive
saws get a polishing wheel treatment where this one didn't?

The whole right side of the table is really smooth once I applied
Johnson's Paste Wax. Things slide very nicely over that part of the
table. It's just a 3/4" band down the left side of the throat plate
opening; not gouged, but definitely not smooth. I could probably file
my fingernails on it.

Might just be the downside of a $400 saw. This is my second TS350,
because the first one had to go back to Lowe's because one side of the
housing had a big dent in it.

Mike

On 14 Jan 2006 09:11:09 -0800, wrote:

Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Mike

I'd be careful here. What is most important is having a flat table. A
light hand sanding with 600-grit might be okay.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Mike

A light pass with a sanding block, wetted with mineral spirits will do no
harm to the top. I have sanded ALL may cast iron tables when I first get the
tool home. Wonderful difference.
Greg

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
ink.net...


Like sanding a dining room table, sanding just the rough spots on the
table saw would likely leave you with a table with low spots...

He wants to sand cast iron, with 600 grit, not maple with 240 grit!
He can sand all day long with 600 grit and do little more than sand off the
nubs left over from machining the top.
Greg

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Mike


Anybody here other than me actually take sand paper to metal??
Metal is some hard stuff! Trust me your arm will be tired long before you
will do any damage with a sanding block and 600 grit!!
Greg

Greg O (in ) said:

| wrote in message
| ups.com...
|| Hi, it's me again.
||
|| I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and
|| the Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast
|| iron table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and
|| it has a few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so
|| easily (even afer waxing). I was thinking about going over it
|| with 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Any thoughts?
||
|| Mike
||
|
| Anybody here other than me actually take sand paper to metal??
| Metal is some hard stuff! Trust me your arm will be tired long
| before you will do any damage with a sanding block and 600 grit!!
| Greg

After the flood of '93 I loaded up my SpeedBloc with 220 grit
sandpaper and sanded for hours and hours (and hours!) to restore the
much-rusted top of my Unisaur. The sanding did remove the rust; but
not much of the grinder swirls.

As far as I can tell, it's better than (and as flat as) new.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

"Greg O" wrote in message

Anybody here other than me actually take sand paper to metal??
Metal is some hard stuff! Trust me your arm will be tired long before you
will do any damage with a sanding block and 600 grit!!

I think some folks may have a tendency to use a ROS or other powered sander.
I can see where that would get you into trouble if you got to aggressive.

That said, I use Sandflex blocks on my CI tops whenever it becomes necessary
.... good stuff.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

That said, I use Sandflex blocks on my CI tops whenever it becomes
necessary
... good stuff.



Rockler has a piece of Bubinga setting out for you. Its about 2"x30"x42".
Only,,,$980.00. :~)

Also I bought a pair of Rockport XCS water proof shoes at Famous Footware
across from Bearings Hardware at Bissonnet and Weslayan. On sale for $69.99
from $129.99. They had 1 pair of 11D's left, if you are interested. ;~)
Moccasin toe however. I think the XCS's are discontinued and are being
replaced by the pair you have on order.
Geeez, I never thought I would be telling a frined about a shoe sale. Damn.

On 14 Jan 2006 10:24:32 -0800, wrote:

I'm just wondering if I have a legitimate gripe with Delta. I put a
straight edge to it and I can't see any high or low spots and I can't
measure any with a feeler gauge, but I'm guessing the more expensive
saws get a polishing wheel treatment where this one didn't?

Nope. I once wrote here about my Unisaw and its cast iron extension
wing, "If I ate enough Wheaties I could turn this thing upside down
and use it as a wood rasp."

"Leon" wrote in message

Rockler has a piece of Bubinga setting out for you. Its about 2"x30"x42".
Only,,,$980.00. :~)

I saw it ... AAMOF, just left there a few minutes ago with some ceramic
guide blocks for the BS. I plumb wore out the old cool blocks and decided it
was time to tune-up the BS while I had nothing pressing going on in the
shop.

I am applying for my own personal key on their damn cash register.

Also I bought a pair of Rockport XCS water proof shoes at Famous Footware
across from Bearings Hardware at Bissonnet and Weslayan.

Next time you're that close, stop by ... I was just down the street, four
blocks away, overseeing the mud slab being poured in a new crawlspace
foundation.

On sale for $69.99
from $129.99. They had 1 pair of 11D's left, if you are interested. ;~)
Moccasin toe however. I think the XCS's are discontinued and are being
replaced by the pair you have on order.
Geeez, I never thought I would be telling a frined about a shoe sale.
Damn.

LOL ... hell, you've got my cell phone in case you see any deals on
underwear, dearie.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

"Greg O" wrote in message
...
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
ink.net...


Like sanding a dining room table, sanding just the rough spots on the
table saw would likely leave you with a table with low spots...

He wants to sand cast iron, with 600 grit, not maple with 240 grit!
He can sand all day long with 600 grit and do little more than sand off
the nubs left over from machining the top.
Greg

My comment was directed towards the notion of sanding just the rough spots
rather than thinking about the top as a whole. I don't disagree with the
slowness of iron removal where hand sanding or Speedbloc type sanders with
600 grit wet/dry papers are concerned... However, apply power via a belt
sander and/or switch to emery cloth in coarser grits to speed things up and
damage can happen quick... up to and including ruts. I've got a particular
chuck of damaged cast iron in mind as I write these comments...

John

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


Next time you're that close, stop by ... I was just down the street, four
blocks away, overseeing the mud slab being poured in a new crawlspace
foundation.

Have you had one of those days where things just do not click? I thouht of
you when I was buying the shoes but did even think of how close I was to
your house until I got home.

Geeez, I never thought I would be telling a frined about a shoe sale.
Damn.

LOL ... hell, you've got my cell phone in case you see any deals on
underwear, dearie.

Ohhh..

wrote:
I'm just wondering if I have a legitimate gripe with Delta. I put a
straight edge to it and I can't see any high or low spots and I can't
measure any with a feeler gauge, but I'm guessing the more expensive
saws get a polishing wheel treatment where this one didn't?

The whole right side of the table is really smooth once I applied
Johnson's Paste Wax. Things slide very nicely over that part of the
table. It's just a 3/4" band down the left side of the throat plate
opening; not gouged, but definitely not smooth. I could probably file
my fingernails on it.

Might just be the downside of a $400 saw. This is my second TS350,
because the first one had to go back to Lowe's because one side of the
housing had a big dent in it.

Mike


There is absolutely no reason not to go over the
rough areas with 600 grit wet or dry paper. You
will have a hell of time taking off any
significant amount of metal without power tools.
Even if you did take off 1/1000 inch, it would
never make any difference to your wood cutting.
All you need to do is slightly round edges which
is about all you can do with 600 grit hand sanded.
But, you definitely want it smooth enough not to
catch on wood.

Greg O wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Mike



Anybody here other than me actually take sand paper to metal??
Metal is some hard stuff! Trust me your arm will be tired long before you
will do any damage with a sanding block and 600 grit!!
Greg



Yes, stupid woman putting wet things on the table
saw. I always cover it with a piece of cardboard
or she would screw it up on a regular bases. I
mentioned that there was no problem in another
response. Try hand sanding out some water rust
marks. It takes forever.

Me.

I've also put Scotchbrite pads and a little kerosene under a ROS.

I'd do it again... G

Second that. The scotchbrite pad sticks nicely to the velcro on the ROS.
However, the addition of kero (or in my case, WD-40/Galoot Aftershave) does
make a big old mess when it's spun around. Don't wear your sunday best, and
definately wear some kinda eye protection. Oh, and don't plan on kissin'
the missus without showering first, cause you'll have a fine coating of
rusty petroleum on you.

Well, I spent 10-15 minutes going over the whole top, using mineral
spirits as suggested. Wow, the light sanding has made a huge
difference.

Thanks all.

Mike

wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, I spent 10-15 minutes going over the whole top, using mineral
spirits as suggested. Wow, the light sanding has made a huge
difference.

Thanks all.

Mike



Now wax it with what ever your favorite is and the wood will slide by
itself!
Greg

Greg O wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

Hi, it's me again.

I've found that another difference between the expensive saws and the
Delta TS350 (the one I bought) is the smoothness of the cast iron
table. Ony my table you can easily see the grinder marks and it has a
few slightly rough spots where wood doesn't slide so easily (even afer
waxing). I was thinking about going over it with 600-grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts?

Mike



Anybody here other than me actually take sand paper to metal??
Metal is some hard stuff! Trust me your arm will be tired long before you
will do any damage with a sanding block and 600 grit!!
Greg


Yup

I took a belt sander to the top of a 30 yr old cast iron top that was in
generally good shape, but darkened with corrosion and one spot that was
'raised' by some rust about the size of a quarter.

The sander quickly brought up a shine and smoothed out the corrosion. I
then used an orbital sander to refine the finish. I was in the process
of selling the machine but after I saw the top, I thought about keeping it!

As for expensive machines having smoother tops, my General 350 (Canadian
made) which supposedly has some 'special' cast iron was very smooth, but
did have visible swirls on the surface from grinding or polishing. It
did not have any imperfections which could be felt like burrs or pits.

Rob

George E. Cawthon wrote:
:
:

: Yes, stupid woman putting wet things on the table
: saw. I always cover it with a piece of cardboard
: or she would screw it up on a regular bases.


it's spelled "basis".

And putting cardboard on cast iron is an invitation
to rust -- ambient moisture gets into the cardboard, then rust ensues.

Not clear here who's being stupid.

-- Andy Barss