Building my workshop and have the cement walls. I have run the electrical
wiring and now am in the process of finishing over the walls with beeded
plywood.

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them with
extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?

(Featuring a NEW look)
"Mark Brubaker" wrote in message
. ..
Building my workshop and have the cement walls. I have run the electrical
wiring and now am in the process of finishing over the walls with beeded
plywood.

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them with
extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?




You might like my lumber rack. It is VERY easy to build. See link below.

--
Stoutman
http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmeliss...ing_frames.htm

My system is one step better, it involves a table instead of the floor.
However, I am trying to improve upon both at the moment.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...

(Featuring a NEW look)
"Mark Brubaker" wrote in message
. ..
Building my workshop and have the cement walls. I have run the
electrical
wiring and now am in the process of finishing over the walls with beeded
plywood.

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them
with
extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?




You might like my lumber rack. It is VERY easy to build. See link below.

--
Stoutman
http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmeliss...ing_frames.htm

"Mark Brubaker" wrote:

Building my workshop and have the cement walls. I have run the
electrical wiring and now am in the process of finishing over the
walls with beeded plywood.

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them
with extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber
rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?



See Fine Woodworking #179 (Oct. 05) Pg. 14 'Methods of Work'. Guy combined
mobile lumber rack with CMS station. On my list of things to build RSN.

I think that would inspire anybody.

In one magazine, I saw where a fellow put up 4x4 columns with holes drilled
in it to accept horizontal pieces of pvc. These pieces of pipe held up quite
load without any deformation of the holes or pipe (sorry, can't remember the
issue). Put the columns of 4x4's (or 4x6's) on two foot centers with
multiple holes, you should have a strong, adjustable rack without any
diagonal bracing in the way.

Preston

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...

(Featuring a NEW look)
"Mark Brubaker" wrote in message
. ..
Building my workshop and have the cement walls. I have run the
electrical
wiring and now am in the process of finishing over the walls with beeded
plywood.

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them
with
extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?




You might like my lumber rack. It is VERY easy to build. See link below.

--
Stoutman
http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmeliss...ing_frames.htm

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...

(Featuring a NEW look)
"Mark Brubaker" wrote in message
. ..
Building my workshop and have the cement walls. I have run the
electrical
wiring and now am in the process of finishing over the walls with beeded
plywood.

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them
with
extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?




You might like my lumber rack. It is VERY easy to build. See link below.

--
Stoutman
http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmeliss...ing_frames.htm

I used to have one like that but I found that too much moisture moved out of
the floor and into the wood, warping it in half a day. I have since
upgraded to one that has a 2x4 sitting on the floor, and only requires the
ends of the boards to be it (I wish I could supply a pic). It has its
limitations, too, of course.

- Owen -

Mark Brubaker wrote:
Building my workshop and have the cement walls. I have run the electrical
wiring and now am in the process of finishing over the walls with beeded
plywood.

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them with
extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?


Search in Google for "lumber rack" in quotes. Then click images at the
top of the search results page. You will see tons of various lumber
rack photo to link to, some commercial, some home made. Great way to
find ideas.

Dave

The easiest, rack is actuall shelving from a grocery store or hardware
store. These can be free standing shelves one side or an island with shelves
two sides. With these shelving units you can access them from the side and
put many shelves on each upright making sorting and storing very easy.

As far as strength goes these shelves can support 300 or 400 pounds per
shelf per 4 feet of run. I have one section of 20 feet that is 8 feet high
and is full to 10 foot level with spalted maple boards.

These are cheap to buy when a store is renovating or moving, easy to erect
and can be taken dowm and moved when you do.

You can never have enough good storage of wood.

Bob Jones

My question is before I finish over the studs should I reinforce them
with
extra supports to the cement walls where I want to build a lumber rack?

Also, anyone have any good suggestions or designs for a lumber rack?

On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 22:23:14 -0600, "Preston Andreas"
scribbled:

I think that would inspire anybody.

In one magazine, I saw where a fellow put up 4x4 columns with holes drilled
in it to accept horizontal pieces of pvc. These pieces of pipe held up quite
load without any deformation of the holes or pipe (sorry, can't remember the
issue). Put the columns of 4x4's (or 4x6's) on two foot centers with
multiple holes, you should have a strong, adjustable rack without any
diagonal bracing in the way.

That's what I built, except I used 3/4" galvanised steel pipe, 18"
long. The holes are drilled at a 5-degree angle, every 6 inches. The
posts are lag-bolted into the top plates of the wall behind it. Works
extremely well and the lumber is easy to get at.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking

Preston Andreas wrote:
I think that would inspire anybody.

In one magazine, I saw where a fellow put up 4x4 columns with holes drilled
in it to accept horizontal pieces of pvc. These pieces of pipe held up quite
load without any deformation of the holes or pipe (sorry, can't remember the
issue). Put the columns of 4x4's (or 4x6's) on two foot centers with
multiple holes, you should have a strong, adjustable rack without any
diagonal bracing in the way.

It isn't PVC pipe which would easily break but 1" metal electrical
conduit. The holes are drilled with about a 5 degree angle and
oversized by about 1/8th inch. I recently built this and it works
really well, super cheap, fast to change around and easy to expand.
Believe it was in a Fine Woodworking ideas bit (with the line diagrams
of jigs/ideas, forget the issue)

damian

Nice, this or Luigi's simple idea seems perfect for my shop.

Thanks!


"damian penney" wrote in message
oups.com...

Preston Andreas wrote:
I think that would inspire anybody.

In one magazine, I saw where a fellow put up 4x4 columns with holes
drilled
in it to accept horizontal pieces of pvc. These pieces of pipe held up
quite
load without any deformation of the holes or pipe (sorry, can't remember
the
issue). Put the columns of 4x4's (or 4x6's) on two foot centers with
multiple holes, you should have a strong, adjustable rack without any
diagonal bracing in the way.

It isn't PVC pipe which would easily break but 1" metal electrical
conduit. The holes are drilled with about a 5 degree angle and
oversized by about 1/8th inch. I recently built this and it works
really well, super cheap, fast to change around and easy to expand.
Believe it was in a Fine Woodworking ideas bit (with the line diagrams
of jigs/ideas, forget the issue)

damian