I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank

Frank Boettcher said:

I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

I am not aware of mineral oil catalyzing as does boiled linseed oil or
whatever. An off-the-cuff guess based on it's use by me on turned
bowls suggests application, followed by a rubdown. Reapply until the
wood has absorbed all that it will. Then buff it out.

If it seems insufficient, you could redo again after the Holidays.
You should have plenty of leftovers to eat.

I could be completely in error, however... If it ends up too greasy,
you could cover it with a festive red and green dropcloth. ;-)

FWIW,

Greg G.

Frank Boettcher wrote:
I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank

I've used mineral oil on cutting boards, knife handles and even a
little furniture.

Mineral oil doesn't "dry". It soaks into the wood, and that which
won't soak in just sits there. Rub it on generously and give it 3-4
hours to soak in. Then wipe off any excess with the proverbial clean
dry cloth. It'll be back in service immediately.

DonkeyHody
"Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."

Frank Boettcher wrote:

I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank
mineral oil will stay oily nearly forever! It isn't going to dry like
Tung oil. Plan on wiping it thoroughly.

Dave

On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 09:45:22 -0600, Frank Boettcher
wrote:


I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank


Thank you gentlemen. I bought some walnut oil today and did a little
test on the corner of the counter. Looks like it will act like the
mineral oil and absorb, excess wiped off and then buff. I'll take the
counter off tommorrow and do the whole thing in the shop before the
festivities get in full swing.

Frank

I actually use Mineral Oil w/ some wax melted in it - just warm it up on the
stove - put some wax in - let it melt - then rub it in - let it dry for
about 15 mins - then buff out.
The "oily" feel goes away in about an hour. (for me at least)


"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...

I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 09:45:22 -0600, Frank Boettcher
wrote:


I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank


Thank you gentlemen. I bought some walnut oil today and did a little
test on the corner of the counter. Looks like it will act like the
mineral oil and absorb, excess wiped off and then buff. I'll take the
counter off tommorrow and do the whole thing in the shop before the
festivities get in full swing.

Frank

Be sure there are no people around with nut allergies, it could put a crimp
your holidays
John.

"John Wilson" wrote in message
.. .

Frank

Be sure there are no people around with nut allergies, it could put a
crimp
your holidays
John.


Learn rather than repeat. http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~aair/nuts.htm

Note the section on oil versus nutmeats, which contain the proteins to which
people may be sensitive.

Then think of a possible dose....

Everyone's right! Mineral oil doesn't ever 'dry'. A better choice is
ordinary cooking oil. Peanut, Safflower, etc., but not Olive oil or
animal fats. Just saturate the surface and rub out with the palm of
your hand, then after 15-30 minutes wipe it off and use it. Do this
every few months and it will last forever.
Bugs

On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 07:50:49 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"John Wilson" wrote in message
. ..

Frank

Be sure there are no people around with nut allergies, it could put a
crimp
your holidays
John.


Learn rather than repeat. http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~aair/nuts.htm

Note the section on oil versus nutmeats, which contain the proteins to which
people may be sensitive.

Then think of a possible dose....



Now you guys are scaring me. So, maybe back to the mineral oil.
Although no one in my family has the allergies, don't want to swell up
any guests.

Fortunately, It is raining hard today so I postponed the job.

Frank

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...


Now you guys are scaring me. So, maybe back to the mineral oil.
Although no one in my family has the allergies, don't want to swell up
any guests.


HUH? You must not have read it.

Frank Boettcher said:

Now you guys are scaring me. So, maybe back to the mineral oil.
Although no one in my family has the allergies, don't want to swell up
any guests.

Fortunately, It is raining hard today so I postponed the job.

I wouldn't take some of that too seriously. Generally, nut oils are
generally not nearly as reactive to some folks as the nut meat. It
drops to a small percentage of the original group who showed a
reaction to the nut meat. It seems that the more refined the oil is,
the less chance of allergic reaction.

But many more people do find black walnut oil irritating to the skin.
Not a full blown allergy, but a mild rash, or itch. Doesn't bother
me, but I have seen more than a few people who are minimally affected.
Mineral oil is probably safer. Just don't cook with it. ;-)
And of course, common vegetable oils can go rancid.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Frank Boettcher wrote:
I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank
Lee Valley sells a beeswax finish, which might be appropriate, here is
the link

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,190,42950

On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 12:42:08 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
.. .


Now you guys are scaring me. So, maybe back to the mineral oil.
Although no one in my family has the allergies, don't want to swell up
any guests.


HUH? You must not have read it.


I did, but maybe I missed something or did not understand. It did not
reference walnut oil specifically but talked about refined vs. cold
pressed peanut oil. Cold pressed potentially dangerous?

Only walnut oil I could find is labeled as "expeller" pressed. Same
as cold pressed?

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 12:42:08 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
. ..


Now you guys are scaring me. So, maybe back to the mineral oil.
Although no one in my family has the allergies, don't want to swell up
any guests.


HUH? You must not have read it.


I did, but maybe I missed something or did not understand. It did not
reference walnut oil specifically but talked about refined vs. cold
pressed peanut oil. Cold pressed potentially dangerous?

Only walnut oil I could find is labeled as "expeller" pressed. Same
as cold pressed?


Those who are sensitive to the nut meat do not show such to the oils. Used
to be a better reference in the AAAAI to a study conducted by the NIH, where
they couldn't get one in 1,000 known hyperreactive people to react to the
pressed oil. It's 404'd now. Can't say never, but it's waaaaay beyond
remote that the 0.1% of people sensitive to tree nuts will find problems
with oil. Now a case if the squirts from food dissolved in non-curing
mineral oil or partially oxygenated vegetable oils is another matter.

Look for the word "processed," where the oil is dehydrated with solvent to
make even that remote more remote.

Greg G. said:

But many more people do find black walnut oil irritating to the skin.
Not a full blown allergy, but a mild rash, or itch. Doesn't bother
me, but I have seen more than a few people who are minimally affected.

Just noticed that I should have been more clear on this point.
This would be the oils from handling black walnut hulls and nut
shells, not the walnut oil you buy at the grocery store. :-\
Black Walnut trees grow locally.


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Greg G. said:

But many more people do find black walnut oil irritating to the skin.
Not a full blown allergy, but a mild rash, or itch. Doesn't bother
me, but I have seen more than a few people who are minimally affected.

Just noticed that I should have been more clear on this point.
This would be the oils from handling black walnut hulls and nut
shells, not the walnut oil you buy at the grocery store. :-\
Black Walnut trees grow locally.


That's the Juglone and other phenolic nasties designed to make the husk
unpalatable.

Sort of perplexing from an adaptive perspective, because the tree poisons
the ground, yet does not encourage dispersal of the nuts. Normally, you'd
expect a sacrificial sweet fruit to encourage dispersal, and a bitter seed -
sort of like black cherry.

George wrote:
"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 12:42:08 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...


Now you guys are scaring me. So, maybe back to the mineral oil.
Although no one in my family has the allergies, don't want to swell up
any guests.


HUH? You must not have read it.


I did, but maybe I missed something or did not understand. It did not
reference walnut oil specifically but talked about refined vs. cold
pressed peanut oil. Cold pressed potentially dangerous?

Only walnut oil I could find is labeled as "expeller" pressed. Same
as cold pressed?



Those who are sensitive to the nut meat do not show such to the oils. Used
to be a better reference in the AAAAI to a study conducted by the NIH, where
they couldn't get one in 1,000 known hyperreactive people to react to the
pressed oil. It's 404'd now. Can't say never, but it's waaaaay beyond
remote that the 0.1% of people sensitive to tree nuts will find problems
with oil. Now a case if the squirts from food dissolved in non-curing
mineral oil or partially oxygenated vegetable oils is another matter.

Look for the word "processed," where the oil is dehydrated with solvent to
make even that remote more remote.

A little late responding, but I only just heard this last night: A FoaF
can eat some form of organic peanutbutter despite an allergy to most
peanuts because it is something used in the preparation of the peanuts
to which he is allergic.

er
--
email not valid

George wrote:

Sort of perplexing from an adaptive perspective, because the tree poisons
the ground, yet does not encourage dispersal of the nuts. Normally, you'd
expect a sacrificial sweet fruit to encourage dispersal, and a bitter seed -
sort of like black cherry.

Consider the mechanism: The ripe walnut, especially a black walnut, has
a very hard shell. A hard nut to crack, you might say. This is not
true of the still green walnut, however, and so might be a more
attractive target to the hungry squirrel were it not for the unpalatable
hull.

The squirrel has adapted a strategy to obviate these difficulties
insofar as it will bury the nut... not just to store or hide it, but to
allow the seed to germinate and thus crack the shell itself. In this
way the squirrel can find the nut after it has germinated and pry it
open to enjoy the meat inside.

But the squirrel has better gardening skills than it does a memory, and
some of the nuts escape the harvest and can germinate into a young tree.

er
--
email not valid

WRONG!!!

Don't use a vegetable based oil at all. It will eventually go rancid.
Use either a walnut oil ($$$) or mineral oil (cheap). Mineral oil is
preferred.

Rob


Bugs wrote:
Everyone's right! Mineral oil doesn't ever 'dry'. A better choice is
ordinary cooking oil. Peanut, Safflower, etc., but not Olive oil or
animal fats. Just saturate the surface and rub out with the palm of
your hand, then after 15-30 minutes wipe it off and use it. Do this
every few months and it will last forever.
Bugs


--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

Just made four of 'em and I let the mineral oil dry overnight. It was
more than enough.

Mineral oil is "edible" but pretty much tastless anyways, so even if
some get's on the food it's no big deal.

good luck!
Rob


Frank Boettcher wrote:
I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.

Frank

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com