I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to round the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to do this to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw and a
handsaw.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Neither of those will work well for making a round cut easily. You
need something with a very narrow blade. Spend the $6.00 for a coping
saw to cut out the outline you trace with something you have that has a
6" radius or use a (very big) compass. (12" diameter).

http://tinyurl.com/dw65l

When you do cut, either cut very carefully along the line or leave some
material and sand it back to the finished edge.

"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to round
the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to do this
to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw and a
handsaw.

Thanks in advance,

Go out and buy yourself a $5 Coping Saw.

"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to round
the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to do this
to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw and a
handsaw.

Perfect. You now have an excuse to buy a few new tools. You need an 18"
bandsaw to make the first cut after marking it. Then you need a disk or
belt sander to smooth it out. A router with round over bit to put a
professional edge on it.

If you are careful in your selection of tools, it can be done under $2000.
Don't listen to those cheap *******s that expect you to use the $5 coping
saw. Look at the possibilities of getting muscular injuries from all that
manual sawing. It can wreck your joints, flare up arthritis, cause back
pain, etc. .

Oh, one more thing. I've seen guys using coffee cans, jars, soup can, etc
to use as a guide for making a corner radius. For consistent accuracy of all
the corners, it is imperative you print out a template using Auto Cad.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

and don't forget to wrap your sandpaper around a wooden sanding block. I
went without and did jobs like that for too long. What a waste. The best
thing to do is cut (rip) your sandpaper into 1/3 sheets (the random orbit
machine size anyway) then rip the thirds in half again for hand use. Then
make a wooden sanding block out of 1/2 plywood. or any other and cut it so
that the 1/6 sheet wraps around it and just a little more. Enough to grip
around the 1/2" edge, but also enough to peel back. Mine overlaps about
1/16". When it gets warn it is a finger sheet you can fold again if necc.

This is really a job for a jig saw. Then sander. In Canada Canadian Tire
makes ther own line of tools that you can always get for like $25 +/- $5,
jigsaw, vsr keyless drill, sander. You can get drill presses for $50 and
thickness planers for $150. Table saws for $80.

"A.M. Wood" wrote in
ups.com:

*snip*

a (very big) compass. (12" diameter).

*snip*

You can easily make one with a ruler, nail/screw, string, and pencil.
Determine where to put the nail, and put it in. (Measure the radius in
from both sides and put the nail where they intersect. A quick square is
perfect for this.) Next, tie the string to the pencil and attach the
string to the nail, making sure the marking edge of the pencil is the
proper distance from the nail with the string taught.

Puckdropper
--
www.uncreativelabs.net

Old computers are getting to be a lost art. Here at Uncreative Labs, we
still enjoy using the old computers. Sometimes we want to see how far a
particular system can go, other times we use a stock system to remind
ourselves of what we once had.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

This wasn't clear before (to me). The sandpaper wraps around one of the
1/2" edges twice (once from each end). The 1/16" was my cutting mistake.
That was when tight. It doesn't matter, but be sure to get a flat back when
you sand.

I saw a jig saw at House of Tools for $16



"bent" wrote in message
news
and don't forget to wrap your sandpaper around a wooden sanding block. I
went without and did jobs like that for too long. What a waste. The best
thing to do is cut (rip) your sandpaper into 1/3 sheets (the random orbit
machine size anyway) then rip the thirds in half again for hand use. Then
make a wooden sanding block out of 1/2 plywood. or any other and cut it so
that the 1/6 sheet wraps around it and just a little more. Enough to grip
around the 1/2" edge, but also enough to peel back. Mine overlaps about
1/16". When it gets warn it is a finger sheet you can fold again if necc.

This is really a job for a jig saw. Then sander. In Canada Canadian Tire
makes ther own line of tools that you can always get for like $25 +/- $5,
jigsaw, vsr keyless drill, sander. You can get drill presses for $50 and
thickness planers for $150. Table saws for $80.

miamicuse wrote:
I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to round the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to do this to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw and a
handsaw.

Thanks in advance,

MC


The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC machine.

Dave

miamicuse (in ) said:

| I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to
| round the corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the
| best way to do this to make it as smooth as possible? I have only
| a compound miter saw and a handsaw.

Use your CMS and handsaw to make a trammel or compass and a bowsaw
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html from scrap, use the
compass to mark the 6" corner curves, cut the marked arcs, and sand
smooth.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

David wrote:

The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.

I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one of the
dumbest things I've ever heard.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

snip

Aw, have a heart Ed!

Vic

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:


"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to
round the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to
do this to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw
and a handsaw.

Perfect. You now have an excuse to buy a few new tools. You need
an 18" bandsaw to make the first cut after marking it. Then you
need a disk or belt sander to smooth it out. A router with round
over bit to put a professional edge on it.

If you are careful in your selection of tools, it can be done
under $2000. Don't listen to those cheap *******s that expect you
to use the $5 coping saw. Look at the possibilities of getting
muscular injuries from all that manual sawing. It can wreck your
joints, flare up arthritis, cause back pain, etc. .

Oh, one more thing. I've seen guys using coffee cans, jars, soup
can, etc to use as a guide for making a corner radius. For
consistent accuracy of all the corners, it is imperative you print
out a template using Auto Cad.

Oh Lord. The **** is pretty deep around here. I wonder what the
craftsmen of yesteryear would think about needing all these power
tools and AutoCad to perform quality woodworking.

It's true about the injuries though... EVERY time I use a coping saw I
blow out my back. Damn.

Joe Barta wrote:

David wrote:


The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.


I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one of the
dumbest things I've ever heard.
I mean THIS with the UTMOST of respect: Have you ever encountered a joke
before??

Dave

The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.

I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one
of the dumbest things I've ever heard.

I mean THIS with the UTMOST of respect: Have you ever encountered
a joke before??

You know, it crossed my mind that it might have been a joke. But
sometimes I forge ahead anyway and... well... you see the results.
It's a cross I must bear.

miamicuse wrote:
I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to round the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to do this to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw and a
handsaw.

Thanks in advance,

MC

I see you've gotten suggestions and sarcasm from both ends of the
spectrum, so I'm taking the middle road. Go down to your local Home
Depot or Lowes or whatever they have in your town and buy an ORBITAL
jigsaw made by Milwaukee, Dewalt, Porter Cable, Bosch or maybe Makita
or Hitachi. Don't get Sears, Black & Decker or Ryobi. It's not just
that they have a short life, they don't cut good even when brand new.
But a good jigsaw is a pleasure to use. Expect to spend about $170 or
so. It's more than absolutely necessary for this one project, but I
see you post on alt.HomeRepair a lot, so you'll find lots of other uses
for it once you have it. A year from now, you'll wonder how you ever
got along without it.

DonkeyHody
"Don't ever wrestle with a pig. You both get muddy, but the pig likes
it."

Joe Barta wrote:

The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.

I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one
of the dumbest things I've ever heard.

I mean THIS with the UTMOST of respect: Have you ever encountered
a joke before??


You know, it crossed my mind that it might have been a joke. But
sometimes I forge ahead anyway and... well... you see the results.
It's a cross I must bear.

Can you post pictures of that cross, Joe?

Dave

David wrote:
Joe Barta wrote:

The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.


I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one
of the dumbest things I've ever heard.


I mean THIS with the UTMOST of respect: Have you ever encountered
a joke before??



You know, it crossed my mind that it might have been a joke. But
sometimes I forge ahead anyway and... well... you see the results.
It's a cross I must bear.

Can you post pictures of that cross, Joe?

Dave
Do you have plans for one??

"jo4hn" wrote
David wrote:
Joe Barta wrote:

The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.


I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one
of the dumbest things I've ever heard.


I mean THIS with the UTMOST of respect: Have you ever encountered
a joke before??



You know, it crossed my mind that it might have been a joke. But
sometimes I forge ahead anyway and... well... you see the results. It's
a cross I must bear.

Can you post pictures of that cross, Joe?

Dave
Do you have plans for one??

OK, I will try my best to make this an on topic post.

In my youth, many years ago, there was a story in the paper about a guy
coming through town with a cross over his shoulder. He was on some kind of
religious quest and sepended on the kindness of strangers and donationa for
his extended hikes with this cross. It turn out that the cross was causing
him some real physical discomfort. Even though it had wheels on the cross,
it caused much swelling over his shoulder and back area.

So a kind hearted WOODWORKER designed a new lightweight cross with some
nicer wheels on it. It was constructed of plywood with reinforced corners.
The new wheels had ball bearings and a simple spring suspension system on it
to absorb shocks. The cross was curves slightly where it went over the
shoulder. And some padding was constructed that he could wear where the
cross went over the shoulder.

The guy maintained that since the cross looked authentic, that god would
understand. (even if humans couldn't) He also pointed out that Jesus only
had to haul his cross a short distance, while he had to haul it around
everyday for long distances. So he could be allowed to make some
modifications on the "original design" of the traditional cross.

My thoughts;

1) This would be an interesting project to do. Some guy who was creative and
used his woodworking/creative skill to create a solution for an unusual
situation. I always like to hear about things like that. Although, I am
reasonably certain, that this project will never find its way into Nahm's
(or my) shop.

2) Now I know that I may be a little disrespectful of religion here, but I
couldn't help but wonder. If Jesus had been given a couple of hours, would
he have "customized" his cross to make it more comfortable to haul around.
Since he was a woodworker and all.

3) In today's world of knock offs and outsourced products to china, will
somebody go into biz making such religious objects for sale?? Will we see
plastic crosses with skateboard wheels? Maybe even a motorized one like the
little scooters?

Lee Michaels wrote:
"jo4hn" wrote

David wrote:

Joe Barta wrote:


The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.


I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one
of the dumbest things I've ever heard.


I mean THIS with the UTMOST of respect: Have you ever encountered
a joke before??



You know, it crossed my mind that it might have been a joke. But
sometimes I forge ahead anyway and... well... you see the results. It's
a cross I must bear.


Can you post pictures of that cross, Joe?

Dave

Do you have plans for one??


OK, I will try my best to make this an on topic post.

In my youth, many years ago, there was a story in the paper about a guy
coming through town with a cross over his shoulder. He was on some kindof
religious quest and sepended on the kindness of strangers and donationafor
his extended hikes with this cross. It turn out that the cross was causing
him some real physical discomfort. Even though it had wheels on the cross,
it caused much swelling over his shoulder and back area.

So a kind hearted WOODWORKER designed a new lightweight cross with some
nicer wheels on it. It was constructed of plywood with reinforced corners.
The new wheels had ball bearings and a simple spring suspension system on it
to absorb shocks. The cross was curves slightly where it went over the
shoulder. And some padding was constructed that he could wear where the
cross went over the shoulder.

The guy maintained that since the cross looked authentic, that god would
understand. (even if humans couldn't) He also pointed out that Jesus only
had to haul his cross a short distance, while he had to haul it around
everyday for long distances. So he could be allowed to make some
modifications on the "original design" of the traditional cross.


I think that the devil made the woodworker do this.



My thoughts;

1) This would be an interesting project to do. Some guy who was creative and
used his woodworking/creative skill to create a solution for an unusual
situation. I always like to hear about things like that. Although, I am
reasonably certain, that this project will never find its way into Nahm's
(or my) shop.

2) Now I know that I may be a little disrespectful of religion here, but I
couldn't help but wonder. If Jesus had been given a couple of hours, would
he have "customized" his cross to make it more comfortable to haul around.
Since he was a woodworker and all.

3) In today's world of knock offs and outsourced products to china, will
somebody go into biz making such religious objects for sale?? Will we see
plastic crosses with skateboard wheels? Maybe even a motorized one like the
little scooters?





--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those
who have not got it.” George Bernard Shaw

WillR wrote:

I think that the devil made the woodworker do this.

That sumbitch is ALWAYS mucking things up. I hate that.

jo4hn wrote:

David wrote:

Joe Barta wrote:

The ONLY tool that will round the corner properly is a CNC
machine.



I mean this with only the greatest of respect... but that's one
of the dumbest things I've ever heard.



I mean THIS with the UTMOST of respect: Have you ever encountered
a joke before??




You know, it crossed my mind that it might have been a joke. But
sometimes I forge ahead anyway and... well... you see the results.
It's a cross I must bear.

Can you post pictures of that cross, Joe?

Dave

Do you have plans for one??
We don't need no stinkin' plans!

Dave

"David" wrote in message
You know, it crossed my mind that it might have been a joke. But
sometimes I forge ahead anyway and... well... you see the results. It's a
cross I must bear.

Can you post pictures of that cross, Joe?

Dave

How about free plans???

Amen. My thoughts exactly. Buy a dang jigsaw and trim close to your
line and sand down to the target -- along with a chopsaw, table saw,
sander, drill, and router, the jigsaw is a must-have in any shop, and
was the next tool I bought after the drill, skil, and sander -- I got
along just fine with a drill, skil saw, sander, and jigsaw for an
entire library project, rounded corners and all.

I prefer the jigs with an adjustable angle knob on top, along with
adjustable speed. You'll love having your jigsaw, and can even set it
up for large-scale scroll-sawing if you're slick. And if you have
kids... man they'll love the toys you can make with a jigsaw!


- Saul


DonkeyHody wrote:
miamicuse wrote:
I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to round the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to do this to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw and a
handsaw.

Thanks in advance,

MC

I see you've gotten suggestions and sarcasm from both ends of the
spectrum, so I'm taking the middle road. Go down to your local Home
Depot or Lowes or whatever they have in your town and buy an ORBITAL
jigsaw made by Milwaukee, Dewalt, Porter Cable, Bosch or maybe Makita
or Hitachi. Don't get Sears, Black & Decker or Ryobi. It's not just
that they have a short life, they don't cut good even when brand new.
But a good jigsaw is a pleasure to use. Expect to spend about $170 or
so. It's more than absolutely necessary for this one project, but I
see you post on alt.HomeRepair a lot, so you'll find lots of other uses
for it once you have it. A year from now, you'll wonder how you ever
got along without it.

DonkeyHody
"Don't ever wrestle with a pig. You both get muddy, but the pig likes
it."

it is imperative you print out a template using Auto Cad.

Which version of AutoCAD? can I not use Microstation? LOL.

MC

Thank you. I have a jigsaw, a cheap Black and Decker I bought five years
ago to make cut outs on melamine back splash for outlets, and counter top
hole for sink etc... and it did not do a good job - or may be I should say -
my skill sucked. I did not feel I have control, I can't see where the saw
is going and the saw dust was flying out blocking my view or something. I
did not consider doing it for the corners since it will require more control
than those rectangular outlet holes. May be I just did not have a good saw,
or may be I just sucked at it.

MC

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
oups.com...

miamicuse wrote:
I have a piece of oak plywood 3/4" thick 36"x60". I would like to round
the
corners into something like a 6" radius. What is the best way to do
this to
make it as smooth as possible? I have only a compound miter saw and a
handsaw.

Thanks in advance,

MC

I see you've gotten suggestions and sarcasm from both ends of the
spectrum, so I'm taking the middle road. Go down to your local Home
Depot or Lowes or whatever they have in your town and buy an ORBITAL
jigsaw made by Milwaukee, Dewalt, Porter Cable, Bosch or maybe Makita
or Hitachi. Don't get Sears, Black & Decker or Ryobi. It's not just
that they have a short life, they don't cut good even when brand new.
But a good jigsaw is a pleasure to use. Expect to spend about $170 or
so. It's more than absolutely necessary for this one project, but I
see you post on alt.HomeRepair a lot, so you'll find lots of other uses
for it once you have it. A year from now, you'll wonder how you ever
got along without it.

DonkeyHody
"Don't ever wrestle with a pig. You both get muddy, but the pig likes
it."

"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
Thank you. I have a jigsaw, a cheap Black and Decker I bought five years
ago to make cut outs on melamine back splash for outlets, and counter top
hole for sink etc... and it did not do a good job - or may be I should
say -
my skill sucked. I did not feel I have control, I can't see where the saw
is going and the saw dust was flying out blocking my view or something. I
did not consider doing it for the corners since it will require more
control
than those rectangular outlet holes. May be I just did not have a good
saw,
or may be I just sucked at it.

I have one of those. It is a piece of vibrating crap that will now allow
you to cut cleanly. Real jig saws start at $100 and peak at about $170 for
the top rated Bosch and Milwaukee models.

miamicuse wrote:
Thank you. I have a jigsaw, a cheap Black and Decker I bought five years
ago to make cut outs on melamine back splash for outlets, and counter top
hole for sink etc... and it did not do a good job - or may be I should say -
my skill sucked. I did not feel I have control, I can't see where the saw
is going and the saw dust was flying out blocking my view or something. I
did not consider doing it for the corners since it will require more control
than those rectangular outlet holes. May be I just did not have a good saw,
or may be I just sucked at it.


You owe it to your future as a handyman to get your hands on a good
quality jig saw. You'll find it a quantum leap above that piece of
junk you have now. The saws I mentioned earlier have an orbital action
that causes the blade to travel in a hook-like path that makes the cut
very agressive when you need it for thick wood. Or you can adjust the
orbit so that the blade moves straight up and down for good control.
Switchable sawdust blowers will keep your cutline clean and moving
counterbalances keep vibration to a minimum.

If you aren't ready to take the plunge based on our advice alone, RENT
a good jig saw to see what we mean. You don't want to be like the cat
in the quote below.

DonkeyHody
"We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom
that is in it - and stop there; lest we be like the cat that sits down
on a hot stove-lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove-lid
again---and that is well; but also she will never sit down on a cold
one anymore." - Mark Twain

"DonkeyHody" writes:


[...]


You owe it to your future as a handyman to get your hands on a good
quality jig saw. You'll find it a quantum leap above that piece of

What, the least possible difference that still *is* a difference?
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

Juergen Hannappel wrote:

You owe it to your future as a handyman to get your hands on a good
quality jig saw. You'll find it a quantum leap above that piece of

What, the least possible difference that still *is* a difference?
--

Sorry, I don't understand your question.

DonkeyHody

"If you are careful in your selection of tools, it can be done under
$2000."

Surely you are not recommending that the OP cut corners on this project

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
ups.com...

Juergen Hannappel wrote:

You owe it to your future as a handyman to get your hands on a good
quality jig saw. You'll find it a quantum leap above that piece of

What, the least possible difference that still *is* a difference?
--

Sorry, I don't understand your question.

DonkeyHody

I think he is saying that there is not a quantum leap in difference unless
the first saw had no blade.
Really a $90 bench top band saw will cut much better than most jig saws. I
am the owner of a Milwaukee jig saw and have used a Bosch. Both being
nearly equal in quality of cut I would not put either up against a band saw.

I have to disagree with that. I have a Black and Decker jig saw. That and a
couple of Skil jigsaws were all I had used until recently. I just thought
jigsaws were a last resort. Something you dreaded to use unless there was no
other choice. After buying my Hitachi, that opinion has changed. There is
that much difference. There is no doubt that a bandsaw will give a better
cut but if I was going to spend $200.00 or less on a curve cutting tool, I
would buy the jigsaw. More versatile and you really can't get much of a
bandsaw for that kind of money. In any case, he was talking about a 36"x60"
piece. Considering the handling problems, he'd probably do a much better job
with the jigsaw.

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...
I think he is saying that there is not a quantum leap in difference unless
the first saw had no blade.

"CW" wrote in message
ink.net...
There is no doubt that a bandsaw will give a better
cut but if I was going to spend $200.00 or less on a curve cutting tool, I
would buy the jigsaw. More versatile and you really can't get much of a
bandsaw for that kind of money. In any case, he was talking about a
36"x60"
piece. Considering the handling problems, he'd probably do a much better
job
with the jigsaw.


Agreed. I originally indicated a coping saw. My intent was to only
indicate that the quantum leap was relative for comparing jig saws.

Leon wrote:


I think he is saying that there is not a quantum leap in difference unless
the first saw had no blade.
Really a $90 bench top band saw will cut much better than most jig saws. I
am the owner of a Milwaukee jig saw and have used a Bosch. Both being
nearly equal in quality of cut I would not put either up against a band saw.

Leon,

I won't try to change your mind about the "quantum leap" issue. It was
a figure of speach I won't attempt to defend. I think I called the
Black & Decker a piece of junk, and I won't attempt to defend that
either. Like Beauty, Junk and Quantum Leaps lie in the eye of the
beholder.

But I think any reasonable person who used both would agree that a good
orbital jig saw from any of the brands I initially recommended would be
a definite improvement over a Black & Decker.

Both of us seem to own both a jig saw and a band saw. I agree that a
band saw gives a better quality of cut, but I find my jig saw to be a
much more versatile item of equipment, especially for home improvement
tasks. Remember that the O.P. is NOT a woodworker, but a handyman.
And when his next project involves cutting an even bigger piece of
plywood or a long board, the jigsaw would be the tool of choice. If
you disagree, well that's why they have chocolate and vanilla, right?

DonkeyHody
"Never wrestle with a pig. You'll both get muddy, but the pig likes
it."

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
oups.com...

miamicuse wrote:
Thank you. I have a jigsaw, a cheap Black and Decker I bought five
years
ago to make cut outs on melamine back splash for outlets, and counter
top
hole for sink etc... and it did not do a good job - or may be I should
say -
my skill sucked. I did not feel I have control, I can't see where the
saw
is going and the saw dust was flying out blocking my view or something.
I
did not consider doing it for the corners since it will require more
control
than those rectangular outlet holes. May be I just did not have a good
saw,
or may be I just sucked at it.


You owe it to your future as a handyman to get your hands on a good
quality jig saw. You'll find it a quantum leap above that piece of
junk you have now. The saws I mentioned earlier have an orbital action
that causes the blade to travel in a hook-like path that makes the cut
very agressive when you need it for thick wood. Or you can adjust the
orbit so that the blade moves straight up and down for good control.
Switchable sawdust blowers will keep your cutline clean and moving
counterbalances keep vibration to a minimum.

If you aren't ready to take the plunge based on our advice alone, RENT
a good jig saw to see what we mean. You don't want to be like the cat
in the quote below.

DonkeyHody

Any specific recommendation of a brand/model?

MC

Any specific recommendation of a brand/model?

I have to say I own one of those B&D jigsaws and while it serves it's
purpose for what I use it for, it is most definitely a disappointing
piece of junk.

I used a Porter Cable jigsaw once and I found it to be an excellent
tool.

Joe Barta wrote:

Any specific recommendation of a brand/model?

I have to say I own one of those B&D jigsaws and while it serves
it's purpose for what I use it for, it is most definitely a
disappointing piece of junk.

I used a Porter Cable jigsaw once and I found it to be an
excellent tool.


Let me add that considering it only cost me a few dollars and works OK
for what I need it for, I figure it was a perfectly sound investment.
That said, if you want to do any serious curve cutting with a jigsaw
then by all means, part with the big bucks and get a real jigsaw.

miamicuse wrote:

Any specific recommendation of a brand/model?

You'll get different recommendations depending on who you ask. The
Bosch 1590, Milwaukee 6266, Dewalt 321, or Porter Cable 9543 all have
their devoted fans. Bosch is probably the most revered jig saw in this
group. Any of these are fine saws. Reasonable people still disagree
over which is best. These are all top-handle variable speed saws,
which is my preference. They are separated by features such as
blade-changing mechanism more than anything else I think. Several of
these manufacturers also make a barrel-grip saw that many like, but I
think the top handle is easier to control. I have the Porter Cable
9543 and like everything about it but the blade changer, which is a
little tricky till you get the hang of it.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle

"DonkeyHody" writes:

Juergen Hannappel wrote:

You owe it to your future as a handyman to get your hands on a good
quality jig saw. You'll find it a quantum leap above that piece of

What, the least possible difference that still *is* a difference?
--

Sorry, I don't understand your question.

A quantum leap is a change between two quantum mechanica stats,
ususlly between the two closest to each other, in other words a
quantum leap is the minimal change that can happen.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23