OK Folks, they say confession is good for the soul.
So I decided to come clean.

I don't own a plane.
There, I said it.
But I don't feel much better.

All this time I've been masquerading as a fairly accomplished
woodworker (to my lay friends anyway) and I don't even own a plane. Oh
I have lots of nice machines. Thickness planer, yes, power plane too,
but not one honest neander plane.

Being self-taught instead of instructed, I have just blundered along,
somehow managing to turn out some stuff that I wasn't ashamed of by
making do with what I had.

I have decided that the woodworking gods must be appeased and they
won't let my skills progress any farther until I have made the
sacrifice and purchased a plane, and learned to tune and use it.

Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

OK, enough grovelling, what say you?

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message

Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

Really depends upon what you do in the wooddorking realm. I don't own many,
but the most useful for what I do (lots of drawer fitting/tweaking where
joints were supposed to meet, etc.) is a Veritas 'Low Angle Block Plane'.

Depending upon your age, basically the same that could be said about the
females in your life ... tis' a thing of great beauty, and a joy to hold.

You might want to check out Steve Knight's site also, and get his advice
based on your anticipated usage.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Swingman wrote:

Really depends upon what you do in the wooddorking realm. I don't own many,
but the most useful for what I do (lots of drawer fitting/tweaking where
joints were supposed to meet, etc.) is a Veritas 'Low Angle Block Plane'.

What I build depends on what SWMBO decides she needs. Almost always
some furniture item. Fitting and tweaking are the uses I forsee now.
I don't envision myself going neander and using a hand plane instead of
my planer or jointer, or anything like that.

DonkeyHody

The Borg has a Buck brand plane that looks similar to a #5 Stanley. Or
if you would prefer something smaller, a #220 Stanley block plane was
my first plane when I was 11 or 12. They're cheap, but they have
precise adjustment of the cutting iron depth. Should be in the $20 to
$25 range. The block planes can be used with one hand if you don't try
to cut too deep.

Otherwise, a USED cessna 4 seat can be had for about the same $ as a
new P-up truck.

Tom in KY, *-bay is a good place to look around and see what has been
available all of this time that you have been planeless.

"DonkeyHody"
I don't own a plane.
There, I said it.
But I don't feel much better.
snip
Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

You won't be disappointed.
Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
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DonkeyHody wrote:
Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

I'm sure there will be lots of opinions on this, but the one plane I'd
like to have would be something equivalent to a Stanley 112 scraper
plane. Knowing how much fun most people have with finishing, being able
to get the surface smoother faster is a great advantage. So if any of
you have a Stanley 112 (or even a 212) or a LV version that you don't
want I'll be glad to send you my address and I'll even pay the shipping.
Just send it on over.

DonkeyHody wrote:
OK Folks, they say confession is good for the soul.
So I decided to come clean.

I don't own a plane.
There, I said it.
But I don't feel much better.

All this time I've been masquerading as a fairly accomplished
woodworker (to my lay friends anyway) and I don't even own a plane. Oh
I have lots of nice machines. Thickness planer, yes, power plane too,
but not one honest neander plane.

Being self-taught instead of instructed, I have just blundered along,
somehow managing to turn out some stuff that I wasn't ashamed of by
making do with what I had.

I have decided that the woodworking gods must be appeased and they
won't let my skills progress any farther until I have made the
sacrifice and purchased a plane, and learned to tune and use it.

Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

OK, enough grovelling, what say you?

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."



Pull planes Taiwanese style -- and get their brass hammer..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,41182,41186

These are inexpensive for a set of four and very good. I find them very
fast to adjust -- after some practice.


See Lee Valley Planes here...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/Search.aspx?c=2&action=n

Many styles. I have tried most and they are all nice.

Note that you can get all the Taiwanese planes for the price of one
metal plane. I have used the planes on all my precision projects and am
very pleased.


We also have the contour planes, the micro planes and a Stanley
smoother, a block plane etc. The metal push-style planes mostly gather
dust now. They do still get used occasionally.

Even a push style plane takes lots of practice... The pull planes take a
bit less. They are _not_ for "hogging off" wood.

You can just search for plane and see all the stuff. Their metal planes
are superb...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/Search...n=a&ap=1#start


I want the "router" plane for inlay, and a plane for M&T work. Metal or
wood. Send a donation. :-)

--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those
who have not got it.” George Bernard Shaw

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
ups.com...
I don't own a plane.
There, I said it.
But I don't feel much better.


Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year.

LV low-angle block plane. It's the best all-round wood trimming device
since the knife. You can even bypass two grades of sandpaper by running it
on the surface of a board.

Could you get by with a Record or Stanley? Perhaps, but the LV is as close
to a sure thing as you can get, and the others are risky at more than half
the price..

Then, depending on your particular type of work, you get what you need.
Smooth, of course is great for flat work, but the turner wants a scrub, and
the guy with a mortising machine needs a shoulder or rabbet block....

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
ups.com...
OK Folks, they say confession is good for the soul.
So I decided to come clean.

I don't own a plane.
There, I said it.
But I don't feel much better.

All this time I've been masquerading as a fairly accomplished
woodworker (to my lay friends anyway) and I don't even own a plane. Oh
I have lots of nice machines. Thickness planer, yes, power plane too,
but not one honest neander plane.

Being self-taught instead of instructed, I have just blundered along,
somehow managing to turn out some stuff that I wasn't ashamed of by
making do with what I had.

I have decided that the woodworking gods must be appeased and they
won't let my skills progress any farther until I have made the
sacrifice and purchased a plane, and learned to tune and use it.

Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

I highly recommend a Knight Toolworks Plane. Like others have indicated
Steve can assist with the type you should use. I have 3 of his and use the
Smoother a lot. I do not have a problem with burning wood when ripping but
every once in a while there are times when you have a piece of lumber that
burns when you rip it. The smoother cleans that burn up with little effort
and quickly. Drawer sides a smidge too tall? Use the smoother to tweak it.

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message

OK, enough grovelling, what say you?


My first plane was a Stanley shoulder plane. I had a specific need for it,
but it is used much less than my Lee Valley low angle block plane.

Doing it over, I'd much rather have a Lee Valley shoulder plane than the
Stanley. It took a lot of work to tune and sharpen the Stanley, the LV was
good to go right out of the box.
Ed

DonkeyHody wrote:

Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

You don't (IMHO) grow out of planes from the Borg... you grow in to them
as you learn to compensate for their bogosity.

Get a jack plane... it's a jack-of-all-trades kinda thing.

er
--
email not valid

DonkeyHody wrote:

What I build depends on what SWMBO decides she needs. Almost always
some furniture item. Fitting and tweaking are the uses I forsee now.
I don't envision myself going neander and using a hand plane instead of
my planer or jointer, or anything like that.

In that case a (good) block plane would work.

er
--
email not valid

wrote:
The Borg has a Buck brand plane that looks similar to a #5 Stanley. Or
if you would prefer something smaller, a #220 Stanley block plane was
my first plane when I was 11 or 12. They're cheap, but they have
precise adjustment of the cutting iron depth. Should be in the $20 to
$25 range. The block planes can be used with one hand if you don't try
to cut too deep.

I bought that plane and had a negative plane aversion for long after.
It was bowed in the middle of the sole raising the mouth high above the
work and, as a consequence, I could only take too much or not enough
material from the workpiece. I didn't know enough about planes to
correct that, of course.

er
--
email not valid

DonkeyHody wrote:

OK Folks, they say confession is good for the soul.
So I decided to come clean.

I don't own a plane.
There, I said it.
But I don't feel much better.

All this time I've been masquerading as a fairly accomplished
woodworker (to my lay friends anyway) and I don't even own a plane. Oh
I have lots of nice machines. Thickness planer, yes, power plane too,
but not one honest neander plane.

Being self-taught instead of instructed, I have just blundered along,
somehow managing to turn out some stuff that I wasn't ashamed of by
making do with what I had.

I have decided that the woodworking gods must be appeased and they
won't let my skills progress any farther until I have made the
sacrifice and purchased a plane, and learned to tune and use it.

Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

OK, enough grovelling, what say you?

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."

I remember when I asked this question of the Wreckers a 2 years ago. I
ended up buying a LV low angle smoother. The cool thing about a bevel
up plane is that you can transform them from low angle to York pitch (50
degree) by swapping out the blade. Fit, finish, durability, usability
of the LV planes (Veritas brand) is superb. You'll never regret buying
any Veritas plane. From that beginning, I got a medium shoulder plane,
a scraper plane (use it a LOT), then a large shoulder plane and low
angle block plane. Just got a 22" jointer. That's a remarkable tool to
joint an edge or flatten a surface. I don't know how I got along so
long without it. Santa will probably bring me a std. block plane and a
bevel up jack plane (with the extra high angle blade ).

I used to wonder why guys had planes numbering in the dozens. Now I
know why! Seriously, a block plane or a bevel up plane around 9-12
inches would be a good start. When you get tear out, pop in a high
angle blade (you can only do that in a bevel up plane to make the
effective angle change).

Dave

DonkeyHody (in )
said:

| Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
| (plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
| outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really
| appreciate a fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over
| the dough and grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some
| specialty item that's not versitile enough.

I'd suggest a low-angle block plane. If you can afford two, get the LV
low-angle smoothing plane, too. I've got about a dozen planes and
these are the two most used.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

All of this discussion had confirmed what I thought all along. Those of
us who do use hand powered planes usually have many. We just have our
favorites close at hand when it counts. I have a BUNCHA' planes, I
still have the little Stanley block plane. It rides to work with me
every day. In my shop though, I like an old Stanley #5 Jack for
smoothing and short board jointing (1 by Whatever material), an old
Stanley 60 1/2 for end grain (it's a small low angle block plane), and
a BIG OLD # 7 STANLEY JOINTER! On about the fifth pass I can bring a
continuous curly from one end to the other on a 2x4. Wax the sole and
the blade and set it shallow. You can hang the curls on your kids ears.


Tom in KY, Keeping the shop interesting for the little ones.
I also keep a Stanley 101 in my tool belt.
Still working on getting a cessna plane. ;-)

I'm fairly new to the world of hand planing as well, and I'll second
the recommendation of a Steve Knight plane - I have his Pocket plane
and his Jack plane, and they're both great. I'd recommend the Pocket
or one of his Smoothers to start with - email him with what you need
and he'll hook you up, and if you ask really nice, maybe give you a
discount on your first one. Not only are they wonderfully functional,
but they're beautiful as well... I have one in purpleheart and the
other is padauk - wow.
I've also heard nothing but really good things about Lee Valley planes,
but have yet to get one.
Andy

You do not state what kinds of tasks you want to try with a hand plane.
Asking "what kind of first plane" without considering the tasks is a very
open question with no single answer.

Do you
a) want to be able to flatten the surface or edge of rough cut lumber?
b) do you want to be able to plane glued up stock?
c) do you want to be able to avoid sanding?
d) do you want to be able to remove small bumps from a piece?
e) do you want to be able to clean up dadoes and tenons?

I think you get the drift. Many people have already given good advise on
places to purchase your first place.

My first plane was a Stanley 9-1/2 (small block plane). This sat in a
cupboard for a couple of decades since I thought power planing and sanding
was easier. I was wrong. This is a good little plane for cleaning up small
bumps, rounding corners and tasks where bed length is not needed.

For the kind of planing tasks which I do, I find hand planing almost
therapeutic. Seeing the shavings is so much better than seeing dust in the
air.

A couple of years ago I went into a woodoworking store to buy my first plane
(technically second, but first for over 20 years). I also had not
considered the types of tasks. I asked the sales person what type of plane
I should buy and he was equally unable to answer.

I ended up buying a Record "Jack" plane (the company is no longer in
business), equivalent to a Stanley #5 about 14 in long. This is fine for
many tasks. I ended up getting a LV A2 blade. What a difference.

I then purchased a LV Scraper plane, a LV Low Angle Smooth Plane, a LV
Medium Shoulder Plane a LV Chisel Plane (used in lieu of scraper to remove
glue excess). I am now awaiting delivery of a LV Router Plane.

I love the feel of the LV shoulder plane, but its 3/4in blade and short body
mean it only gets used for its intended purpose cleaning out dadoes or
tenons.

The plane I used most is the LV Low Angle Smooth Plane.

I still use the power planer for surfacing rough cut lumber, but I now use
the hand planes as often as I can.

Dave Paine.


"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
ups.com...
OK Folks, they say confession is good for the soul.
So I decided to come clean.

I don't own a plane.
There, I said it.
But I don't feel much better.

All this time I've been masquerading as a fairly accomplished
woodworker (to my lay friends anyway) and I don't even own a plane. Oh
I have lots of nice machines. Thickness planer, yes, power plane too,
but not one honest neander plane.

Being self-taught instead of instructed, I have just blundered along,
somehow managing to turn out some stuff that I wasn't ashamed of by
making do with what I had.

I have decided that the woodworking gods must be appeased and they
won't let my skills progress any farther until I have made the
sacrifice and purchased a plane, and learned to tune and use it.

Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.

OK, enough grovelling, what say you?

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."

(snip) I don't envision myself going neander and using a hand plane instead
of
my planer or jointer, or anything like that.

After using a few good hand planes, you may be swayed a little more
towards neanderism . There are some things that are far easier to do with a
hand plane. I'd recommend a shoulder plane to start, it'll trim those
tenons to perfection. A low angle block plane is also a good
uggestion. --dave


"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...
DonkeyHody wrote:

What I build depends on what SWMBO decides she needs. Almost always
some furniture item. Fitting and tweaking are the uses I forsee now.
I don't envision myself going neander and using a hand plane instead of
my planer or jointer, or anything like that.

In that case a (good) block plane would work.

er
--
email not valid

Thanks to all who replied so quickly.
Truth is, I have gotten along without a plane for so long that I'm not
really sure what I need one for. It's sort of like, before I bought my
first computer, I wasn't sure why I needed one. But those who had them
assured me that once I owned one, I'd find all sorts of uses for it and
that I'd never be without one again - and they were right.

Those of you who speak so poetically about the joys of using a good
plane make it sound like some majical experience akin to watching the
sun rise. I want to experience some of that, and find out what I've
been missing.

Right now, I expect a block plane would be more useful to me than any
other, but I wanted to get a reality check before I plunked down the
cash for a Lie-Nelson or even a Knight or Lee Valley.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 13:38:16 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
Enoch Root quickly quoth:

DonkeyHody wrote:

What I build depends on what SWMBO decides she needs. Almost always
some furniture item. Fitting and tweaking are the uses I forsee now.
I don't envision myself going neander and using a hand plane instead of
my planer or jointer, or anything like that.

In that case a (good) block plane would work.

An old Stanley #60-1/2 would do him right.
Don, goto http://supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan9.htm fo mo info.
Add a Ron Hock iron for even more fun.


--
STOP LIVING LIKE VEAL
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Veal-free Websites

If I were you I would definitely get the LV LABP, I got one, and it
is really nice quality. But also check out eBay for a nice looking
Stanley #5 jack plane (avoid the color maroon, dreadfull, blue is
okay), you'll need that, and you can upgrade the blade with a Hock
or LV A2 or HCS steel blade (easier to sharpen than A2). That's
the basics, then there's tuning the #5.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

In article ,
David wrote:
DonkeyHody wrote:
...snipped...

I used to wonder why guys had planes numbering in the dozens. Now I
know why! Seriously, a block plane or a bevel up plane around 9-12
inches would be a good start. When you get tear out, pop in a high
angle blade (you can only do that in a bevel up plane to make the
effective angle change).

Dave

Have to disagree somewhat with this point. In a bailey or other
bevel-down style plane, all you need is a slight back bevel on the
iron to accomplish the same thing.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

"AAvK" wrote in newsH8of.425$Bv.371@fed1read03:

If I were you I would definitely get the LV LABP, I got one, and it
is really nice quality. But also check out eBay for a nice looking
Stanley #5 jack plane (avoid the color maroon, dreadfull, blue is
okay), you'll need that, and you can upgrade the blade with a Hock
or LV A2 or HCS steel blade (easier to sharpen than A2). That's
the basics, then there's tuning the #5.



Thirded, or fourthed, ... not sure. The LV LABP would be a great starter
plane. It'll work great, right out of the box; and it's not terribly
expensive; and useful as all get-out. If you want to chamfer, get the
little chamfer attachment for it as well.

I, too, in a fit of ignorance, bought the evil Buck Bro #5 from the
borg. Don't go there.

--
Regards,

JT
Speaking only for myself....

... until I have made the sacrifice and purchased a plane, and learned to tune and use it.

... Question is, what should I buy

Start off with a #5 or #4 1/2. Find an old Stanley in good shape. We
ain't talkin' big bucks. Also get the Taunton Press Mario Rodriguez
video on planes. That will get you started. Learn to tune it so you can
get shavings so thin they have only one side. That feels good.

When you get the urge, and you will, then spring for a fancier, sexier
tool like a Lie-Nielson or Knight. The old Stanley will still serve you
well, and you might get a jointer like a #7 just to show off.

With all due respect...DO NOT buy Buck Bros., Great Neck, Craftsman,
or other economy hand plane...even new Stanleys. You're much better
off getting a good used Stanley ('60s & earlier are good), Millers
Falls, Sargent or Lakeside plane.

FTW, I bought a newer Stanley #4 with plastic handles and no matter
how much I've tuned it I can't get it to cut tissue thin shavings. On
the other hand I also bought an older Stanley #6 and with NO tune up
other than honing the blade on waterstones I am able to make tissue
thin shavings with it...thin, like one ply of a double ply Kleenex.

Layne

On 14 Dec 2005 11:03:27 -0800, wrote:

The Borg has a Buck brand plane that looks similar to a #5 Stanley. Or
if you would prefer something smaller, a #220 Stanley block plane was
my first plane when I was 11 or 12. They're cheap, but they have
precise adjustment of the cutting iron depth. Should be in the $20 to
$25 range. The block planes can be used with one hand if you don't try
to cut too deep.

Otherwise, a USED cessna 4 seat can be had for about the same $ as a
new P-up truck.

Tom in KY, *-bay is a good place to look around and see what has been
available all of this time that you have been planeless.

Also,

I forgot to mention that whether you're a neander or a normite you
*need* a block plane.

Layne

Start off with a #5 or #4 1/2. Find an old Stanley in good shape. We
ain't talkin' big bucks. Also get the Taunton Press Mario Rodriguez
video on planes. That will get you started. Learn to tune it so you can
get shavings so thin they have only one side. That feels good.

When you get the urge, and you will, then spring for a fancier, sexier
tool like a Lie-Nielson or Knight. The old Stanley will still serve you
well, and you might get a jointer like a #7 just to show off.


Hear-hear! I entirely agree. I absolutely love all my old Stanleys, and reading
in this ng is why I got into them. They are easy to get in good shape on eBay
and local "used stuff" shoppes. I hate one #6 tho... it's a type 8 that needs a
ton of tuning and fettling, and I paid too much for it. So the best policy is to
get one that "looks really good".

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Folks,
Thanks for all the good advice. I think I'll try the Lee Valley Low
Angle Block Plane first, since it seems to match my hazy vision of what
I need a plane for. It's not out of reach price-wise and shouldn't
require a lot of tuning to be useful. If I have a religious experience
as a result and convert to neander, I'll look up the other
recommendations to start my collection.
Thanks again and Merry Christmas!

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."

DonkeyHody wrote:

Folks,
Thanks for all the good advice. I think I'll try the Lee Valley Low
Angle Block Plane first, since it seems to match my hazy vision of what
I need a plane for. It's not out of reach price-wise and shouldn't
require a lot of tuning to be useful. If I have a religious experience
as a result and convert to neander, I'll look up the other
recommendations to start my collection.
Thanks again and Merry Christmas!

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."

Life will never be the same, once you open up your first LV plane box.
Hell, even my WIFE thinks they are cool. She likens them to "a work of
art". I especially love the design of their shoulder planes. I'll wager
that every Xmas, birthday, and Father's Day, you'll have a plane on your
Want List! g

Dave

On 14 Dec 2005 10:31:56 -0800, "DonkeyHody"
wrote:

I don't own a plane.
I have lots of nice machines. Thickness planer, yes, power plane too,
but not one honest neander plane.
Question is, what should I buy, seeing as how I'm still a virgin
(plane-wise). I'd rather not buy something from the BORG that I'll
outgrow in a year. I don't yet have the skills to really appreciate a
fine piece of equipment, but I'm willing to fork over the dough and
grow into it. I just don't want to blunder into some specialty item
that's not versitile enough.


Have to add my 2c.

First off, agree with all the others about the block plane, my most
used by far. If your going to stick with machines for bulk
planing/jointing, then I'd suggest you learn to use scrapers first,
hand and plane types.
My problem with larger planes is that I don't have a good place to
secure the wood, no big sturdy bench, your not going to be happy
jointing or planing on a couple of workmates not matter what plane you
have!
I have all kinds of planes, most used or cheap or old and cheap
The mediocre ones can be tuned fairly well.
Used every one of them for something. Have a great older Stanley
jointer plane, used it for rough planing a couple times (in 20 years),
have never even bothered to tune it. Without a secure work piece it's
useless. I'd rather use my Inca jointer to finish and my Makita power
planer for rough work (Well tuned THIS is a very handy tool).
However my $30 Record low angle block (tuned) with adjustable throat
will finely slice anything I can muscle it through. Use it for all
sorts of things, small chamfers (no jigs), smoothing jointer blade
nick lines, tenons, etc...
I also keep a crap block plane handy for "construction"
A shoulder plane with removable front piece is very handy as well. I
have a small 1941 Record 077A, works great for all sorts of things.
I'd like to use my OLD nameless #12 scaper plane more, and have a
couple under $5 flea market wood planes not worth repairing that I've
used for "rough" work.

If you've got the bench or whatever and want to neander your wood, the
others have given great advice, smoother, jack, jointer.

And yes, a bench is finally on my radar.

--------------------
Steve Jensen
Abbotsford B.C.
chopping out the mortise.
BBS'ing since 1982 at 300 bps.
Surfing along at 19200 bps since 95.
WW'ing since 1985
LV Cust #4114

Nothing catchy to say, well maybe.....
WAKE UP - There are no GODs you fools!

Whoa - back it up a minute.

Have you got sharpening stuff - other than a 1 to2 hp grinder?
Even if the iron comes dead flat on the back - at least the front
inch or two, sharpened - and honed - at some point it will get dull.

If the back of the iron ISN'T flat it needs to be made so - and
THAT can't be done on a grinder. So - you've got Scary Sharp (tm)
(float glass with sandpaper, preferably wet/dry, stuck to it - in eight
or 10 grits), the Diamond Plates, India/Arkansas/Japanese stones
and mayybe a leather strop. Then you probably will start with
some sort of sharpening jig to hold the iron/chisel at the proper
angle to the sharpening surface. When you've acquired the
sharpening stuff you'll discover that it's cost several times what
plane you started with. Of course, when you distribute the
sharpening stuff cost over - oh let's say 8 to 10 planes, and
a couple of sets of bench chisel, the cost/sharp tool starts
dropping off to reasonable. If you slide ALL THE WAY DOWN
THE SLIPPERY SLOPE, you won't even recall spending ANY money
on sharpening stuff.

My vote for a first plane is a block plane - or better yet -
the LN Block/Rabbet plane. Great for tuning drawer fit,
can be used to tune a tenon, including a shoulder if you're
careful - and it's pretty to look at - if a tool can be called
pretty.

Second plane - a #5. Good for joining the edge of shorter
stuff, taking out a bit of cupping or bowing - on shorter
stuff, thinning down narrow parts, etc..

Did anyone mention that when you jump from a block plane
size to the #4 and above - you'll probably need a vise, and
a bench to hold it on - oh and "dogs" - with dogholes - you
need to keep the piece of wood you're planing from moving
around.

Oh - and if it's ply you want to work with - BELT SANDER.
Ply is REALLY hard on handplane irons - can even chip
your edge.

charlie b