Hi All,

I'm doing a chair and would like to saddle the seat using inshave
(needs to buy one).

Can you recommend a $50 inshave you like?
How frequent does inshave needs honing/sharpening?
And most importantly, what's the best method for sharpening inshave?

Thanks, Ziko.

"ziko" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All,

I'm doing a chair and would like to saddle the seat using inshave
(needs to buy one).

Can you recommend a $50 inshave you like?
How frequent does inshave needs honing/sharpening?
And most importantly, what's the best method for sharpening inshave?

Thanks, Ziko.


Unfortunately I'm not going to be much help here as I've never used an
inshave so can't comment on your questions.
I can say however, that if you're using tools, that this book is excellent
at helping with the sharpening aspect of just about anything:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43091

In terms of how frequent you'll need to sharpen one of these up, that will
depend more on your situation (wood type, technique, etc) and the tool
itself to really give an accurate answer.
Cheers,
cc

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...

"ziko" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All,

I'm doing a chair and would like to saddle the seat using inshave
(needs to buy one).

Can you recommend a $50 inshave you like?
How frequent does inshave needs honing/sharpening?
And most importantly, what's the best method for sharpening inshave?

Unfortunately I'm not going to be much help here as I've never used an
inshave so can't comment on your questions.
I can say however, that if you're using tools, that this book is excellent
at helping with the sharpening aspect of just about anything:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43091

In terms of how frequent you'll need to sharpen one of these up, that will
depend more on your situation (wood type, technique, etc) and the tool
itself to really give an accurate answer.

Yep, you sharpen when it's too dull to cut as you need to cut. I use a
gouge stone. Fine India, followed by an Arkansas slip and chromium oxide
strop.

Is it practical to use sanding sleeve on a dril press to sharpen
inshave?

regards, ziko.



George wrote:
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...

"ziko" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All,

I'm doing a chair and would like to saddle the seat using inshave
(needs to buy one).

Can you recommend a $50 inshave you like?
How frequent does inshave needs honing/sharpening?
And most importantly, what's the best method for sharpening inshave?

Unfortunately I'm not going to be much help here as I've never used an
inshave so can't comment on your questions.
I can say however, that if you're using tools, that this book is excellent
at helping with the sharpening aspect of just about anything:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43091

In terms of how frequent you'll need to sharpen one of these up, that will
depend more on your situation (wood type, technique, etc) and the tool
itself to really give an accurate answer.

Yep, you sharpen when it's too dull to cut as you need to cut. I use a
gouge stone. Fine India, followed by an Arkansas slip and chromium oxide
strop.

"ziko" wrote in message
ups.com...
Is it practical to use sanding sleeve on a dril press to sharpen
inshave?


Nope. You want the scratches perpendicular to the edge. That way you get a
bit of tooth sliding it sideways as you draw it.

On 12 Dec 2005 06:40:36 -0800, "ziko" wrote:

I'm doing a chair and would like to saddle the seat using inshave

Can you recommend a $50 inshave you like?

No - I have a few scorps, inshaves and round adzes, but I rarely use
them. Instead I use an Arbortech cutter in an angle grinder.

If you do want an inshave, then I've found the Bristol Design (pale blue
handles) tools to be good.

The Arbortech is easy to use, works on any timber (including awkwardly
grained elm) and most of all is _quick_. The downside is that it's very
quick - it can easily cut faster than you're expecting, so make
templates and check regularly. It's even worth using a template 1/4"
short for a first pass, then going over to final size.

A curved spokeshave is useful for finishing. As it has a mouth, unlike a
drawknife, it's easier to use for a thin controlled shaving.
Unfortunately the Clifton I use has handles that curve downwards too
much, limiting its use for a deep cut in a wide board.

How frequent does inshave needs honing/sharpening?

This depends on the timber. Ideally the drawknife family are green wood
tools. The timber is soft (so a perfect edge is less crucial) and they
work by splitting ahead of the edge with a wedge action, as much as they
do by cutting (so the edge suffers less wear). This isn't to say that
you shouldn't have a sharp edge on your green tools, but it certainly
takes less effort to keep it there.

And most importantly, what's the best method for sharpening inshave?

A big hand-held coarse stone, moved over a firmly clamped shave. They're
generally sharpened out-cannel (bevel out) so access is easy. If you
want to hone them, a powered leather wheel (rotating away from you,
unlike a grinder) is quick and convenient.