This'll probably be a bit long, and ramble. You're welcome to pass
it by.
**********
A lot of you guys use, or want to use, various CAD programs.
Personally, I don't see it for an amateur woodworker - for a pro,
seeling plans, yes; for an amateur, no. But, it's not my money, so I
don't care how you spend it. It'd be too much like work for me to use,
and I'd be bored to tears. And, yes, I've been around CAD and CNC beore.
I worked with computers for years, in a manufacturing environment, so
don't bother telling me I'd like it if I tried it, that I don't know how
useful it is, or whatever. I prefer a pencil, paper, ruler, and my
imagination, if I want to draw up plans. **********
**********
As many of you know, I normally make up my own plans; and, when I
do use someone else's plans, pretty much don't stick exactly to them.
Actually, I mostly don't draw up plans as such. As I understand it, a
lot of you can't picture in your minds what you want to make. I pretty
much can. I think that about anyone could, if they tried. Anyway,
instead of putting something on paper, I start by visualizing what I
want to make, and then on how I want to make it. Depending on what I am
planning to make, I may, or may not, make a rough sketch or two. I do
take measurements, write them down, and that's usually about all I put
on paper.
A prime example is my latest project, a carry/storage case for 3
air rifles. I've owned a Sheridan .20 air rifle for years. A year or so
back, I got a Sheridan .177, and a few days ago found a site selling
Seridan .22 air rifles, so ordered one. Now, I'll have a matched set
heheh. Not a gloat, bed definitely a warm fuzzy. This is how I'll do it.
I started by looking at a LOT of cases, courtesy of google. This one
came closest to what I was after, http://musketboxes.homestead.com/

I was looking for something that would be pretty simple to make,
strrong, be easily adaptable to different long guns, and look half-way
decent. I especially like how the piece is held in place, kinda a custom
fit, and if you want to carrry another later on, be quick, and easy, to
make another set of "cradles". My case iwill take all three of my
Sheridns, so it'll be a bit different than the musket boxes.

The sides (or bottom and top, depending on whether it's standing
up, or laying down so they can be takem out) will be 1/4" plywood. The
others will be 1/2" plywood. * The top will have some reinforcing
pieces glued in. I'll put some glue blocks in bottom, along the sides,
for a bit of extra glue area. I won't be nailing any of it. I'll glue
piecess in to let the cradle pieces slide in, and hold them. I laid one
of the air rifles down, and took some measurements. They'll have about
1/2" clearance on each side, top, and bottom. The outside of the case
will be about 36" long, 10" tall, and 7" wide.
**********
I'll use about 3" strap hinges. I had planned on using a strap
handle on it, but the one I looked at was 2" tall, and I didn't want
that. Looked at some fold down chest handles, but they aren't really
long enough to take my hands. Found some on-line that would work, but
they were $15 to $25 "each" - so no way. * I thought more about this,
then decided to go with a rope handle. That'll be simple, and go more
with the overall look I want. Besides, it'll be a lot more satisfying to
make my own, rather than buying one. I still haven't quite finalized the
handle design yet, but that's OK, because I'm ot that far along yet.
Options a Drill two holes, insert rope, and knots inside. Drill four
holes, two ropes - or one, looped thru all four holes. Then there's
always staples, and so on. No biggie, I'll decide later.
**********
A more pressing problem was what type of latches to use. I'd looked
at several, that were in no way acceptable. I'd figured on just making
the top out of 1/4" plywood. But, that wouldn't work with any latches
I'd found. So, now the top will have a 1" lip on three sides, of 1/2"
plywood. First I'd thought about putting the box all together, then
cutting it openwith m table saw. Or, cutting at an angle. Waaaay to
complicated and too much work. Figured out the simple way. Just cut 1"
srips, and glue them on. Simple. Then I decided on lunch-box type
latches, and they would bee, won't take a lot of force to keep the top
closed. Found a couple of places on-line with decent prices.
**********
Before I ordered any, I decided it'd be more satisfying to figure
out how to make my own. I came up with a few ideas, and started a
thread, to find out if anyone had any better idea. Suffice it to say,
no. The thread didn't actually die, it was more like suicide. Anyway,
I'd already came up with a simple, and effective latch, and made out of
wood - in fact the only metal in the box will be the hinges, and the
hinge fasteners.
**********
Let me see if I can explain my latch so you'll understand it. I'm
not really concerned if you don't, because I do. I'll glue a small
square of 1/4" plywood to the bottom in the front, one on each side, for
two latches. Then another small square on the 1" lip. Then there'll be a
narrow strip glued to the bottom square, going up to the top square, and
a small piece glued on the strip, and fitting over the top of the top
square. To open, I'll have to pull back on both strips, and raise the
lid at the same time, with my thumbs. Should be easy enough. An added
benefit is, both latches will have to be opened at the same time, to get
the lid up, which makes it pretty effectively child-proof. Then when the
lid is shut, the latches will automatically engage. Sounds simple enough
to me. And, all with not a line drawn, just a few measurements written
down. Actually, the only reason for writing the measurements down, is so
I don't have to be bothered with trying to remember them. This is a
simple project, but even with more complicated ones, they're done about
the same. I seldom make more than a rough sketch or two, and usually
even those are just to eyeball compare different options for something.
No sketch was made for this project.
*********
That's my version of a CAD program. Patent pending. LOL

And, for the Gods' sakes, if you can't snip, don't reply to this.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

J T wrote:

This'll probably be a bit long, and ramble. You're welcome to pass
it by.

A lot of you guys use, or want to use, various CAD programs.
Personally, I don't see it for an amateur woodworker - for a pro,
seeling plans, yes; for an amateur, no. But, it's not my money, so I
don't care how you spend it. It'd be too much like work for me to use,
and I'd be bored to tears. And, yes, I've been around CAD and CNC beore.
I worked with computers for years, in a manufacturing environment, so
don't bother telling me I'd like it if I tried it, that I don't know how
useful it is, or whatever. I prefer a pencil, paper, ruler, and my
imagination, if I want to draw up plans.

I tend to draw some sketches and write a couple measurements for overall
size then make up the rest as I go.

As many of you know, I normally make up my own plans; and, when I
do use someone else's plans, pretty much don't stick exactly to them.
Actually, I mostly don't draw up plans as such. As I understand it, a
lot of you can't picture in your minds what you want to make. I pretty
much can. I think that about anyone could, if they tried. Anyway,
instead of putting something on paper, I start by visualizing what I
want to make, and then on how I want to make it. Depending on what I am
planning to make, I may, or may not, make a rough sketch or two. I do
take measurements, write them down, and that's usually about all I put
on paper.
Same here, someone else's plan is mostly a reference.

A*prime*example*is*my*latest*project,*a*carry/storage*case*for*3
air rifles.

Interesting, one of my future projects will be a gun case of an old black
powder rifle that was passed down to me from my grandfather. Have a real
cow horn powder horn and all.
I thought about making the long sides hold the ends and the cradle parts
inside hold the long sides together which in turn hold the ends, etc.
I like the rope hinge idea too, why not make the latch out of rope also,
just attach to the lid and feed through a hole in the side for the handle
so when you pick it up it holds closed.

What kind of wood, I haven't decided what would be light weight enough, the
rifle I want to carry is heavy enough already

"J T" wrote in message
...
This'll probably be a bit long, and ramble. You're welcome to pass
it by.

A lot of you guys use, or want to use, various CAD programs.
snip ..snip..snip..
And, for the Gods' sakes, if you can't snip, don't reply to this.




JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

I'm an AutoCAD pro and an amateur wood worker. I have AutoCAD 2005 (legal)
and I use it to plan my projects on.

I'm trained in 3D and use it professionally. I don't see much use for it for
plans. I have no problems visualizing a project.

You do it your way and I'll do it my way. :-)

(J T) wrote in
:

This'll probably be a bit long, and ramble. You're welcome to
pass
it by.
**********
A lot of you guys use, or want to use, various CAD programs.
Personally, I don't see it for an amateur woodworker - for a pro,
seeling plans, yes; for an amateur, no. But, it's not my money, so I
don't care how you spend it. It'd be too much like work for me to use,
and I'd be bored to tears. And, yes, I've been around CAD and CNC
beore. I worked with computers for years, in a manufacturing
environment, so don't bother telling me I'd like it if I tried it,
that I don't know how useful it is, or whatever. I prefer a pencil,
paper, ruler, and my imagination, if I want to draw up plans.
**********

I've been known to grab a writing utensil and start drawing a time or
two. I usually use CAD for the things that I need to show others or for
calculations I'm unwilling (and unable) to do on paper.

In high-school, I usually drew some sort of plan before I started
building then had 3 days to two weeks left over to sand. Yep, the
sander and I knew each other by first name. ;-)

Puckdropper

--
www.uncreativelabs.net

Old computers are getting to be a lost art. Here at Uncreative Labs, we
still enjoy using the old computers. Sometimes we want to see how far a
particular system can go, other times we use a stock system to remind
ourselves of what we once had.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Mon, 05 Dec 2005 19:25:48 -0500, J T wrote:
-- snip --

Options a Drill two holes, insert rope, and knots inside. Drill four
holes, two ropes - or one, looped thru all four holes. Then there's
always staples, and so on. No biggie, I'll decide later.

There are some pretty interesting decorative marlinespike (rope work)
pages out there. Some good box or sea chest handles. Looks like an
interesting skill to learn. I've also seen marlinespike latches, but
don't remember what site it was on.

DGA

(J T) wrote:

I started by looking at a LOT of cases, courtesy of google. This one
came closest to what I was after, http://musketboxes.homestead.com/


What kind of critter do you suppose they used for the 'fur'?

Nice simple and functional design.

Mon, Dec 5, 2005, 7:48pm (Eugene*Nine) did say:
I tend to draw some sketches and write a couple measurements for overall
size then make up the rest as I go.

Sounds like I make fewer sketches, also I tend to make most of it up
in my mind, before I even start. You understand the concept well
enough.

Same here, someone else's plan is mostly a reference.

That's about it. I don't think I've ever seen "any" plans that've
been exactly what I was after.

Interesting, one of my future projects will be a gun case of an old
black powder rifle snip

Something along the lines of one of these might work:
http://www.springfield-armory.com/pr...al-crate.shtml
http://www.lrml.org/collecting/turne.../ttmm001-a.jpg

I like the rope hinge idea too,

I don't recall ever seeing rope hinges on a gun case. Or, too much
of anything else for that matter. I suppose that might work, I'll have
to google a bit.

why not make the latch out of rope also, just attach to the lid and feed
through a hole in the side for the handle so when you pick it up it
holds closed.

Nope. I definitely want something that will keep the top closed at
all time. Doesn't need to be a security latch, just keep it from
opening on its own.


What kind of wood, snip

I'd say pine. Should be light enough, and it's pretty much
traditional. However, I doub you're going to be carrying it around a
lot, so if you want it fancy, I'd say walnut, cherry, etc. Otherwise,
pine, poplar, plywood, cedar, whatever.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

Tue, Dec 6, 2005, 12:48am (EST+5) (Lowell*Holmes)
did say:
snipYou do it your way and I'll do it my way. :-)

As long as we're both having fun.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

Tue, Dec 6, 2005, 3:15am (EST+5) (Puckdropper) did
say:
I've been known to grab a writing utensil and start drawing a time or
two. I usually use CAD for the things that I need to show others or for
calculations I'm unwilling (and unable) to do on paper.

I don't show anybody "anything".

In high-school, I usually drew some sort of plan before I started
building then had 3 days to two weeks left over to sand. Yep, the sander
and I knew each other by first name. ;-)

In high school we learned drafting in shop class, and were required
to draw plans of our projects. The theory behind this was to teach us
to work from plans. I think that was a very good idea, and worked well.
But, I've gone beyond that.

I lost the tip of one finger to our large disc sander. Nowadays
that would be grounds for a huge injury claim. Back then, the shop
teacher put a bandage on it, my folks made no big deal about it, and
life went on. I don't think the shop teacher even told me to be careful
next time, probably figured I shouldn't need to be told - and I didn't,
that's the worst shop injury I've ever had, and I'll be 65 soon - lesson
learned. It was a, "that was a stupid thing to do, don't do it again",
attitufde, all around, not much sympahy involved. Be nice to have days
like that again, stupidity should never rewarded.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

Mon, Dec 5, 2005, 8:34pm (EST-2) (dgadams) did
say:
There are some pretty interesting decorative marlinespike (rope work)
pages out there. Some good box or sea chest handles. Looks like an
interesting skill to learn. I've also seen marlinespike latches, but
don't remember what site it was on.

I've seen a few of those site, but didn't see any handles I cared
for. Don't recasll any marlinspike latches tho. Crap, looks like
google time again.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

Tue, Dec 6, 2005, 8:28am (EST+5)
(Lobby*Dosser)
What kind of critter do you suppose they used for the 'fur'?
Nice simple and functional design.

Probably "beaver". Yep, I like the design for those reasons.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

Mon, Dec 5, 2005, 8:34pm (EST-2) (dgadams) did
speak thusly:
There are some pretty interesting decorative marlinespike (rope work)
pages out there. Some good box or sea chest handles. Looks like an
interesting skill to learn. I've also seen marlinespike latches, but
don't remember what site it was on.

Yes, some of the handles look good, but I don't think they'd be
well suited to my case. One on each end yes, but not one on top for
carrying.

I've been googling so much for something on marlinspike latches
that I've had to quit for awhile to let it cool off. And, nothing on
marlinspike latches at all. Can you point me to one or two, so I can get
a general idea of what they look like?



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

Ha, U of PS delievered the .22 today. It's called a
Benjamin/Sheridan, but is actually made by Crosman. Almost a clone of
my Sheridan tho, so I'm happy. It looks goooood. It's remanufactured,
so only ran me $75, instead of well over $100. No prob, I'm happy.

I've also got one of the el cheapo Chinese air rifles I bought at
one of the Cummins tool sales. Their site lists it at about $20. Worth
it at twice the price. Shoots a .177 pellet at about 900 FPS, which is
faster than some .22 rifle target ammo. I shot a 55 gallon steel drum
with it, and it didn't just flatten the pellet. It actually dented the
barrel, and the pellet flattened n the pocket, and remained. Would have
had to pry it out. Definitely not to be used carelessly. I found out a
few days ago a .22 version is made, that is rated at .850 FPS - I want
one, and will get one. Only problem is, the model I have has a Monte
Carlo style stock, with the rear sight at the rear of the action. I
have found similar, but the rear sight is mounted at the "front" of the
action, these go for around $25. I want one same style as my present
one, and I know they make them, just have to hunt one down. I may have
to eventually settle for one with 4X scope, for around $30. Life is
hard. Then I'll have to make a carry/storage case for them also.

I've also got a Crosman pump single shot .177 pistol. But, there
are also Benjamin/Sheridan pump pistols in .20 and .22, for just over
$100 each. Now, it looks like I'll have to start saving my pennies for
one each of those, so I'll have another set of three. Life is hard.
PayPal is accepted for donations.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.

On Tue, 06 Dec 2005 16:04:43 -0500, J T wrote:

I've been googling so much for something on marlinspike latches
that I've had to quit for awhile to let it cool off. And, nothing on
marlinspike latches at all. Can you point me to one or two, so I can get
a general idea of what they look like?

Alas, no. I can't remember where I saw them. I took an interest in
marlinespike (or marlinspike) last summer while in Maui. We went to a
whaling museum and I saw some examples. That may be where I saw the
latches. Seems to me it was two loops of rope (very decorative) at right
angles. One fitted into the other, and then a wooden "U" was used to
secure the whole thing. Sorry.

DGA

Tue, Dec 6, 2005, 6:19pm (EST-2) did speak out:
snip Seems to me it was two loops of rope (very decorative) at right
angles. One fitted into the other, and then a wooden "U" was used to
secure the whole thing. Sorry.

Ah, then that wouldn't work for me, I don't want any loose parts -
just something to lose.

However, it did give me an idea for a latch backup. Could use a
loop of rope off the top, and looped around the handle - then if both
latches broke, that would keep the top closed. Alternatively, a loop or
two off the top, and over a small hook(s), which would also keep the top
closed, in case of latch failure.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.