Hello everyone,

I have googled "divided light" cabinet doors and come up empty.

I have no idea on how to make divided light cabinet doors. I have both the
Freud recoverable bead cabinet door set and the CMT Lonnie Bird divided
light cabinet door set with instructions, but both are very vague on how to
actually make divided light cabinet doors.

I am looking to make 2 over 3 divided light cabinet doors that will test the
test of time.

Has anyone actually used either to make divided light cabinet doors?

I am having great difficulty trying to figure out either set.

If anyone has actually made 2 over 3 cabinet doors with either set, I would
really like to hear from you,

Thanks,

David.

Look for American Woodworker, Issue 115; July 2005. Has an excellent
article by Tom Casper. I used it (with the freud set) and made 5 five foot
tall, 8 lite doors without a hitch.

jc


"David F. Eisan" wrote in message
...
Hello everyone,

I have googled "divided light" cabinet doors and come up empty.

I have no idea on how to make divided light cabinet doors. I have both the
Freud recoverable bead cabinet door set and the CMT Lonnie Bird divided
light cabinet door set with instructions, but both are very vague on how
to actually make divided light cabinet doors.

I am looking to make 2 over 3 divided light cabinet doors that will test
the test of time.

Has anyone actually used either to make divided light cabinet doors?

I am having great difficulty trying to figure out either set.

If anyone has actually made 2 over 3 cabinet doors with either set, I
would really like to hear from you,

Thanks,

David.

"David F. Eisan" wrote in message

I am looking to make 2 over 3 divided light cabinet doors that will test
the
test of time.

Popular Woodworking, November 2005, page 100.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

"David F. Eisan" wrote in message
...


I have no idea on how to make divided light cabinet doors. I have both the
Freud recoverable bead cabinet door set and the CMT Lonnie Bird divided
light cabinet door set with instructions, but both are very vague on how
to actually make divided light cabinet doors.

I am looking to make 2 over 3 divided light cabinet doors that will test
the test of time.

Has anyone actually used either to make divided light cabinet doors?

I am having great difficulty trying to figure out either set.

What exactly is your question here David? What part has you stumped? I
find it is really no different than making regular doors with a single piece
of glass other than adding other pieces inside the perimeter of rails and
stiles.

"Leon" wrote in message
news

"David F. Eisan" wrote in message
...


I have no idea on how to make divided light cabinet doors. I have both
the Freud recoverable bead cabinet door set and the CMT Lonnie Bird
divided light cabinet door set with instructions, but both are very vague
on how to actually make divided light cabinet doors.

I am looking to make 2 over 3 divided light cabinet doors that will test
the test of time.

Has anyone actually used either to make divided light cabinet doors?

I am having great difficulty trying to figure out either set.

What exactly is your question here David? What part has you stumped? I
find it is really no different than making regular doors with a single
piece of glass other than adding other pieces inside the perimeter of
rails and stiles.



Leon,

I agree it's not much more difficult than regular raised panel door, but
there is the extra step of cutting the mortises for the muntins and rails
that doesn't need to be performed with a typical R&S construction. Or, at
least that was the case with the bit set I used ;-)

jc

"noonenparticular" wrote in message
m...

Leon,

I agree it's not much more difficult than regular raised panel door, but
there is the extra step of cutting the mortises for the muntins and rails
that doesn't need to be performed with a typical R&S construction. Or, at
least that was the case with the bit set I used ;-)

I must be missing something here, LOL. I use rail and stile router bits for
this operation and find that simply cutting the required extra pieces and
taking into consideration the length that will be lost and gained when
fitting the muntins and rails is the only difference in procedure other than
having to route both sides of the inner pieces.

As a hint, I do cut the inner pieces a tad longer and sneak up on the length
for a proper fit.

Leon,

What exactly is your question here David? What part has you stumped?

The part that has me stumped is how to handle the intersection/overlap of
the muntin bars. In a two over three cabinet door I don't want to 5 separate
bars, I want three. In my mind I cannot figure out how to do a half lap, it
seems like an impossible joint/puzzle with profiled bars. I don't want just
a butt cope joint at the intersections, I would rather have the bars go from
side to side, top to bottom. I plan on mortising the rail and stile and I am
going to do the same with the muntin bars into the rail and stile as well. I
want a strong door.

Did I explain myself well enough that you understand my dilemma?

Thanks,

David.

"David Eisan" wrote in message
t.ca...
Leon,

What exactly is your question here David? What part has you stumped?

The part that has me stumped is how to handle the intersection/overlap of
the muntin bars. In a two over three cabinet door I don't want to 5
separate
bars, I want three. In my mind I cannot figure out how to do a half lap,
it
seems like an impossible joint/puzzle with profiled bars. I don't want
just
a butt cope joint at the intersections, I would rather have the bars go
from
side to side, top to bottom. I plan on mortising the rail and stile and I
am
going to do the same with the muntin bars into the rail and stile as well.
I
want a strong door.

Did I explain myself well enough that you understand my dilemma?

Thanks,

David.



David,

In the AW article I referenced, this joint is handled as such:

- the horizontal muntin ends act as tenons (as they do in "normal" cope and
stick doors)

- the verticle muntins have a through mortise cut through them.

- the tenons on the horizontal pieces are shortened by ~ 1/16". This way
they *almost* meet in the center of the through mortise

The resulting joint(s) are quite strong. The doors I built were incredibly
strong as there were 17 M&T's in each one.

jc

"David Eisan" wrote in message
t.ca...
Leon,

What exactly is your question here David? What part has you stumped?

The part that has me stumped is how to handle the intersection/overlap of
the muntin bars. In a two over three cabinet door I don't want to 5
separate
bars, I want three. In my mind I cannot figure out how to do a half lap,
it
seems like an impossible joint/puzzle with profiled bars. I don't want
just
a butt cope joint at the intersections, I would rather have the bars go
from
side to side, top to bottom. I plan on mortising the rail and stile and I
am
going to do the same with the muntin bars into the rail and stile as well.
I
want a strong door.

Did I explain myself well enough that you understand my dilemma?


Absolutely David.

OK, I see your situation here. I have never done half lap intersections but
have seen illustrations of this procedure and it is indeed some what
complicated compared to simply making more of the same joints that you use
to make the outer frame of the piece. That said, I always make the same
joints that I do for the framing rail and stile members. I find that with
all that exposed surface that the joint is plenty strong.

Experiment with simply building a test piece with the joints all fitting as
they would on a normal rail and stile door. I think you will find that the
strength is adequate. The nuntins are going to add a lot of support to the
inner rails.

Good Luck and if you end up doing the half lap procedure please take lots of
pictures.

"David Eisan" writes:

Leon,

What exactly is your question here David? What part has you stumped?

The part that has me stumped is how to handle the intersection/overlap of
the muntin bars. In a two over three cabinet door I don't want to 5 separate
bars, I want three. In my mind I cannot figure out how to do a half lap, it
seems like an impossible joint/puzzle with profiled bars. I don't want just

It is not. Half-Lap the unprofiled part of the profile, miter the
profiled parts. "The Complete Woodworker" has a picture of thet.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23