I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up the
jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do that
because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the same
gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the stone
do the "rest".


Dave

David wrote:
I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up the
jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do that
because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the same
gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the stone
do the "rest".

Seems to me that this would somewhat negate the whole point of putting a
specific bevel angle on the blade, if you're just going to grind it off
again after remounting the blades.

Chris

Chris Friesen wrote:

David wrote:

I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up
the jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do
that because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the
same gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the
stone do the "rest".


Seems to me that this would somewhat negate the whole point of putting a
specific bevel angle on the blade, if you're just going to grind it off
again after remounting the blades.

Chris
seems to me the mfgr, who supplied the replacement blades, doesn't see a
problem, Chris. the process is "honing". it's very subtle.

Dave

On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 15:53:35 -0800, David wrote:

the process is "honing". it's very subtle.

It's also at completely the wrong angle.

Bad idea. Don't do it.

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 15:53:35 -0800, David wrote:


the process is "honing". it's very subtle.


It's also at completely the wrong angle.

Bad idea. Don't do it.
I'll put the cutting quality of my jointer up against anything in it's
class, so I DON'T think honing is a "bad" idea, as you suggested.

Dave

David wrote:

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 15:53:35 -0800, David wrote:


the process is "honing". it's very subtle.



It's also at completely the wrong angle.

Bad idea. Don't do it.

I'll put the cutting quality of my jointer up against anything in it's
class, so I DON'T think honing is a "bad" idea, as you suggested.

Dave
in other words, THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING. I get smoothly milled wood
off my jointer, each and every time I run wood over it.

Dave

On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 14:30:21 -0800, David wrote:

It's also at completely the wrong angle.

I'll put the cutting quality of my jointer up against anything in it's
class, so I DON'T think honing is a "bad" idea, as you suggested.

You'll no doubt also be interested in a tub of my Patent Anti-Elephant
Omnibus Discouragement Dust. I sprinkle it out of the windows every time
I travel by bus and have yet to be plagued by elephants. It obviously
works perfectly.


I hone my jointer blades on the machine, with a diamond hone. But I do
it with the machine very much off, and I use the correct angle for the
blades, not a tangent.

Yes, a subtle dulling.

"David" wrote in message
...
. the process is "honing". it's very subtle.

CW wrote:

Yes, a subtle dulling.

"David" wrote in message
...

. the process is "honing". it's very subtle.





only when done by the inept.

Dave

Only when done by anyone.

"David" wrote in message
...
CW wrote:

Yes, a subtle dulling.

"David" wrote in message
...

. the process is "honing". it's very subtle.





only when done by the inept.

Dave

True.


"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...

Seems to me that this would somewhat negate the whole point of putting a
specific bevel angle on the blade, if you're just going to grind it off
again after remounting the blades.

Chris

David wrote:
I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up the
jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do that
because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the same
gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the stone
do the "rest".


Dave

I took a look at the 54A manual that's on-line at Powermatic's web site
and it states:

-----------------------------------------------

1. Disconnect the machine from the power
source.

2. Remove the blade guard and belt cover.

3. To protect the infeed table from scratches,
partially cover the sharpening stone with
paper (Figure 47).

4. Lay the stone on the infeed table.

5. Lower the infeed table and turn the
cutterhead by turning the cutterhead pulley.
The infeed table height is set properly when
the stone's surface is flush with the knife
bevel.

6. Keep the cutterhead from rotating by
grasping the cutterhead pulley while sliding -------
the stone back and forth across the table.

7. Take the same amount of passes for all
three blades."

------------------------------------------------

Nowhere that I can find does it mention honing the blades with the
jointer running.

The manual can be found at:

http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_1791279DX.pdf

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

no(SPAM)vasys wrote:

David wrote:

I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up
the jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do
that because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the
same gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the
stone do the "rest".


Dave


I took a look at the 54A manual that's on-line at Powermatic's web site
and it states:

-----------------------------------------------

1. Disconnect the machine from the power
source.

2. Remove the blade guard and belt cover.

3. To protect the infeed table from scratches,
partially cover the sharpening stone with
paper (Figure 47).

4. Lay the stone on the infeed table.

5. Lower the infeed table and turn the
cutterhead by turning the cutterhead pulley.
The infeed table height is set properly when
the stone's surface is flush with the knife
bevel.

6. Keep the cutterhead from rotating by
grasping the cutterhead pulley while sliding -------
the stone back and forth across the table.

7. Take the same amount of passes for all
three blades."

------------------------------------------------

Nowhere that I can find does it mention honing the blades with the
jointer running.

The manual can be found at:

http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_1791279DX.pdf

THEY CHANGED THE INSTRUCTIONS!! I'VE GOT THE MANUAL IN FRONT OF ME AND
IT STATES ON PAGE 14, STEP NUMBER 4, TURN THE MACHINE ON.

there is a picture showing a block of wood held by a clamp.

SO THERE!!!

Nice try, and thanks for playing

i can scan the entire page and put it on the binaries if you'd like!

Dave

"David" wrote in message
...
no(SPAM)vasys wrote:

David wrote:

I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up
the jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do
that because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the
same gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the
stone do the "rest".


Dave


I took a look at the 54A manual that's on-line at Powermatic's web site
and it states:

-----------------------------------------------

1. Disconnect the machine from the power
source.

2. Remove the blade guard and belt cover.

3. To protect the infeed table from scratches,
partially cover the sharpening stone with
paper (Figure 47).

4. Lay the stone on the infeed table.

5. Lower the infeed table and turn the
cutterhead by turning the cutterhead pulley.
The infeed table height is set properly when
the stone's surface is flush with the knife
bevel.

6. Keep the cutterhead from rotating by
grasping the cutterhead pulley while sliding -------
the stone back and forth across the table.

7. Take the same amount of passes for all
three blades."

------------------------------------------------

Nowhere that I can find does it mention honing the blades with the
jointer running.

The manual can be found at:

http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_1791279DX.pdf

THEY CHANGED THE INSTRUCTIONS!! I'VE GOT THE MANUAL IN FRONT OF ME AND
IT STATES ON PAGE 14, STEP NUMBER 4, TURN THE MACHINE ON.

there is a picture showing a block of wood held by a clamp.

SO THERE!!!

Nice try, and thanks for playing

i can scan the entire page and put it on the binaries if you'd like!

Dave

He is back only a matter of time I guess. Relax

joey wrote:


. Relax


Joey, I'm relaxed. Perhaps a smiley would have helped convey the tone
better!!

Dave

"David" wrote in message
...
joey wrote:


. Relax


Joey, I'm relaxed. Perhaps a smiley would have helped convey the tone
better!!

Dave
Dude lose the caps
BTW my 54A instructions had the same stoning recommendation I decided it
was not a proceedure for me. I have resharpened my blades once and reset
with a dial indicator to bout 1-2 thou. The faced and jointed results are
excellant. Results rule
Joey

no(SPAM)vasys wrote:

David wrote:

I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up
the jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do
that because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the
same gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the
stone do the "rest".


Dave


I took a look at the 54A manual that's on-line at Powermatic's web site
and it states:

-----------------------------------------------

1. Disconnect the machine from the power
source.

2. Remove the blade guard and belt cover.

3. To protect the infeed table from scratches,
partially cover the sharpening stone with
paper (Figure 47).

4. Lay the stone on the infeed table.

5. Lower the infeed table and turn the
cutterhead by turning the cutterhead pulley.
The infeed table height is set properly when
the stone's surface is flush with the knife
bevel.

6. Keep the cutterhead from rotating by
grasping the cutterhead pulley while sliding -------
the stone back and forth across the table.

7. Take the same amount of passes for all
three blades."

------------------------------------------------

Nowhere that I can find does it mention honing the blades with the
jointer running.

The manual can be found at:

http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_1791279DX.pdf

that date of my manual is 06/01

some idiot probably hurt himself, so they changed the instructions.

they work for me...

Dave

David wrote:

no(SPAM)vasys wrote:

6. Keep the cutterhead from rotating by
grasping the cutterhead pulley while sliding -------
the stone back and forth across the table.

7. Take the same amount of passes for all
three blades."

------------------------------------------------

Nowhere that I can find does it mention honing the blades with the
jointer running.

The manual can be found at:

http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_1791279DX.pdf

that date of my manual is 06/01

some idiot probably hurt himself, so they changed the instructions.

they work for me...

Dave

I agree.

The fact that Powermatic changed the manual might be a hint.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

no(SPAM)vasys wrote:



I agree.

The fact that Powermatic changed the manual might be a hint.

I posted the page on the binaries. check it out!

dave

David wrote:
no(SPAM)vasys wrote:



I agree.

The fact that Powermatic changed the manual might be a hint.

I posted the page on the binaries. check it out!

dave

Dave, they method you describe is what we did at a tech college in the
1960-1970s era. There was a specific jig to hold the stone although I
have seen it done just holding the stone freehand on the outfeed table.


There are safety concerns in doing this, for us it was done at least
weekly by the same person.

The new instruction mentioned in other posts suggest that somebody had
a nasty accident.

Dave, my 54A's manual says the same thing. It's scary, no? Plus you've
got to be sure your stone is flat.If you're diligent about knife
setting, the "honing" isn't necessary. Besides, it scratches up the
outfeed table. You wouldn't live in the Bay Area by any chance, would
you? Tom

FWIW,

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...PARTNUM=95-420

I used one of these theother day to touch up the knives that have been in
use on my 8" jointer for the past 6 months and it made a very noticable
improvement. I will make a point this thing on a faily regular basis.


"David" wrote in message
. ..
I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up the
jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do that
because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the same
gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the stone
do the "rest".


Dave

David wrote:

I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up the
jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do that
because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the same
gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the stone
do the "rest".

I've been fascinated by this thread, and some of the thought
experiments about why this will or will not work (particularly the
idea of why not just hone your plane blades the equivalent way). I
note that the page from the PM manual that was posted on abpw refers
to this technique as jointing the blades, not honing them. I found
another source that describes the same process. Feirer's Cabinetmaking
and Millwork, c 1970, follows a discussion of various alternative
methods for grinding jointer knives, and how to install them, with
this paragraph on page 258 (all typos mine):

**********
After the jointer knives have been sharpened and reset, it is wise to
joint the knives so they are exactly the same height. Cover all but
about one-fourth the length of a large abrasive stone with wax paper.
Place the stone on the rear table with the exposed section over the
knives. Clamp a wooden stop block to the front table to help guide
the stone. Lower the table until the stone barely touches the knives.
[reference to illustration] Turn on the poser. When the cutterhead is
revolving, move the stone slowly from one side to the other. A true
cutting circle will result. Be sure to joint the entire length of the
knives. The joint or land (sometimes called the heel) should not be
wider than 1/32". After jointing, replace the fence and guard.
*********

I can't vouch for the technique based on personal experience, but I
have found Feirer's book to be a pretty dependable reference.
Combined with the page from PM, which is not a fly-by-night tool
company eitherg, I tend to think there may be merit to trying this.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

alexy said:

I can't vouch for the technique based on personal experience, but I
have found Feirer's book to be a pretty dependable reference.
Combined with the page from PM, which is not a fly-by-night tool
company eitherg, I tend to think there may be merit to trying this.

The blade 'jointing' technique has probably fallen from favor by the
proliferation of both homemade and commercial magnetic blade setting
jigs that are pretty capable of getting blades accurately aligned to
each other and the out-feed table - dependant, of course, on the
user's skill and determination. Some of those suckers are really
aggravating to align. And personal injury law suits have probably
helped push it along. Some folks can break an anvil in a sandbox.


Greg G.

Greg wrote:


The blade 'jointing' technique has probably fallen from favor by the
proliferation of both homemade and commercial magnetic blade setting
jigs that are pretty capable of getting blades accurately aligned to
each other and the out-feed table
I'd buy that, except that Feirer's book discusses using a magnetic jig
to align the blades when installed.

- dependant, of course, on the user's skill and determination. Some
of those suckers are really aggravating to align.
True. But while I've been happy with my success in aligning my knives
and the resultant cut quality, this does make me wonder...

And personal injury law suits have probably
helped push it along.
I suspect that had a lot to do with the change in the PM manual.

Some folks can break an anvil in a sandbox.
LOL!

--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.