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Sam the Cat
 
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Default raised panel doors

I'm making some raised panel doors this weekend. The style I am making is
simple groove in rail and stile -- no ogee or anything. In the past I have
made the frame of the raised panel using mortise and tennon construction
using my Leigh FMT and then groove the interior of the frame with a centered
1/4" bit. I was looking at some raised panel bit sets to see the how they
attached the rail to the stile and it would appear that there is no "large"
tennon or tennon like structure -- although the joint also has a lot of glue
area and good part of it is long to long grain. If I carry this idea to my
design I would mill a 1/4" x 1/4" groove down the stile and then form a 1/4"
stub tennon on the rail. Obviously a 1" deep full tennon would be a
stronger joint -- just wondering if anyone has any experience making door
with the 1/4" tennon and had luck with them holding up over time.

BTW the application is a media cabinet -- CD's and DVDs -- nothing too
strenuous....

TIA


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Mike Marlow
 
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Default raised panel doors


"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
I'm making some raised panel doors this weekend. The style I am making is
simple groove in rail and stile -- no ogee or anything. In the past I

have
made the frame of the raised panel using mortise and tennon construction
using my Leigh FMT and then groove the interior of the frame with a

centered
1/4" bit. I was looking at some raised panel bit sets to see the how they
attached the rail to the stile and it would appear that there is no

"large"
tennon or tennon like structure -- although the joint also has a lot of

glue
area and good part of it is long to long grain. If I carry this idea to

my
design I would mill a 1/4" x 1/4" groove down the stile and then form a

1/4"
stub tennon on the rail. Obviously a 1" deep full tennon would be a
stronger joint -- just wondering if anyone has any experience making door
with the 1/4" tennon and had luck with them holding up over time.


As a matter of fact, I've done exactly that. Stopped the router groove
short so that it did not show in the end grain and just used a tennon to fit
the mortise. Held up fine. It's not so different from the idea behind a
biscuit - look how little biscuit really sticks into the mating piece.

--

-Mike-



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tom
 
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Default raised panel doors

I'd spend the money and find the panel bit set that appeals to me. No
worries about stopped grooves, and so much less fuss. They hold up just
fine. Tom

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Mike Pio
 
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Default raised panel doors


"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
I'm making some raised panel doors this weekend. The style I am making is
simple groove in rail and stile -- no ogee or anything. In the past I
have
made the frame of the raised panel using mortise and tennon construction
using my Leigh FMT and then groove the interior of the frame with a
centered
1/4" bit. I was looking at some raised panel bit sets to see the how they
attached the rail to the stile and it would appear that there is no
"large"
tennon or tennon like structure -- although the joint also has a lot of
glue
area and good part of it is long to long grain. If I carry this idea to
my
design I would mill a 1/4" x 1/4" groove down the stile and then form a
1/4"
stub tennon on the rail. Obviously a 1" deep full tennon would be a
stronger joint -- just wondering if anyone has any experience making door
with the 1/4" tennon and had luck with them holding up over time.

BTW the application is a media cabinet -- CD's and DVDs -- nothing too
strenuous....

TIA



I have a door making set for the shaper that cuts a 7/16" deep by 1/4" wide
groove (with no profile just as you specify). The doors I've made with it
so far seem strong, although I haven't tested them over time. But I did try
to smash apart a 1-day old prototype at the joints to no avail. The wood
surrounding each joint broke first.

I recently made a similar type of raised panel door but the stile and rails
of the frame had a 5/16" bead detail (much like a beaded face frame
concept). It turns out that the tenons in the rails are about 13/32", just
shy of the 7/16" the cutter can actually produce. While this is nowhere
near the 1" tenon you mention, the doors still feel quite strong -- at least
as strong as other cope and stick joints I've made in the past in the same
material.

So...I realize that the tenons I cut are about twice what you're asking
about, but I'm trying to point out that I don't think 1" tenons are
mandatory for a fairly strong door (although they would, in fact, be much
stronger like you said). Keeping in mind that the simple groove in rail and
stile door making set I have was designed to cut a 7/16" groove, is there
any way you can make your groove another 1/8" or so deeper just to be safe?
If not, maybe you could glue up a prototype and try to stress the joints to
failure?

-m


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Sam the Cat
 
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Default raised panel doors


"Mike Pio" wrote in message
news:nGD8f.60818$WR2.55530@fed1read03...


I have a door making set for the shaper that cuts a 7/16" deep by 1/4"

wide
groove (with no profile just as you specify).


Mike

Can you post a link to this router bit set -- I make a few of these doors
from time to time and having a router bit set might speed things up bit





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Mike Pio
 
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Default raised panel doors


"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...

"Mike Pio" wrote in message
news:nGD8f.60818$WR2.55530@fed1read03...


I have a door making set for the shaper that cuts a 7/16" deep by 1/4"

wide
groove (with no profile just as you specify).


Mike

Can you post a link to this router bit set -- I make a few of these doors
from time to time and having a router bit set might speed things up bit




Sam,

Here's a link to the set I have, but it's a door making set designed for a
SHAPER, not a router.

http://www.toolstoday.com/displaytoo...gue+and+Groove

I did a quick check on Amana's site and found a similar router bit set. I
don't know the price.

http://www.amanatool.com/bits/55400.html

My 2003 Freud catalog shows an adjustable tongue and groove set which will
cut grooves (and corresponding tongues) from 7/32" to 3/8". Here's a link
to that bit set on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...44035?v=glance

If you don't want to buy a router bit or shaper cutter set, have you
considered forming the tongue and groove using your table saw? It might not
produce as clean a cut, but the results may be acceptable for your
application. Just a thought...

-m


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