Maybe a silly question, but here goes.

What is the equivalent grit in sandpaper terms for a scraper? After sanding to 220 I sometimes will find a spot that needs scraping. Do I need to sand over the scraped area with 150 and work down to 220 again or just 220? or not at all?

Thanks.

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 03:37:38 GMT, "stoutman" .@. wrote:

Maybe a silly question, but here goes.

What is the equivalent grit in sandpaper terms for a scraper? After sanding to 220 I sometimes will find a spot that needs scraping. Do I need to sand over the scraped area with 150 and work down to 220 again or just 220? or not at all?

Thanks.



there isn't really an equivalency like that.

the scraper surface will vary in smoothness by what method was used to
sharpen it, how thick the scraper blade is, how hard and open pore the
wood is, what angle it is used at, how much pressure and plenty of
other factors.

if you're going to be mixing scraping with sanding, try a spot with
the scraper before you get going with the sanding- it'll let you know
where the scraper fits in in your process. lots of folks prefer to do
all of the edge work- sawing, chiseling, planing and scraping- before
sandpaper touches the wood, for fear that grit from the sandpaper will
dull the edge tools.

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 03:37:38 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
"stoutman" .@. quickly quoth:

Maybe a silly question, but here goes.

What is the equivalent grit in sandpaper terms for a scraper? After sanding to 220 I sometimes will find a spot that needs scraping. Do I need to sand over the scraped area with 150 and work down to 220 again or just 220? or not at all?

I find that a scraper gives me a better, smoother finish than 320 grit
paper on hardwoods. On softwoods, I'll scrape, rub a coat of Waterlox
in, let it dry for several hours, and scrape again. The result is
about the same as the hardwood; Call it 400+. It can be, but isn't
necessarily, more of a burnishing.

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