I am shopping for a router table. The BenchDog Contracter model seems
attractive because it sits on top of a bench and can be put away.

Are any other brands really superior? I'll be doing some sheet work,
and doing raised panel doors for cabinets.

I have another machine called a WoodRat for doing joints such as
dovetails, tenons and mortising work.

Gary Curtis
Los Angeles

Make your own.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am shopping for a router table. The BenchDog Contracter model seems
attractive because it sits on top of a bench and can be put away.

Are any other brands really superior? I'll be doing some sheet work,
and doing raised panel doors for cabinets.

I have and like my Bench Dog, but I question your choice of contractor
model. Using a contractor model and making raised panels just does not seem
to be the best solution. You also mention sheet goods. How big? It is a 24
x 16 top whereas the full top is 32 x 24. I'd opt for the longest fence and
widest table I could handle. But that is just me.

I am interested in the contractor model (bench-top) in order to save
shoproom space. My shop is under construction, and I see other guys
wiggling like sardines just to manuever through equipment standing on
the floor.

After it is used, the bench-top can be stowed on a shelf, or hung on
wall bracket.

When I say sheet goods, I wouldn't be routing a whole 4x8 panel in one
shot. Small pieces. Probably the largest at 16x24, same size as the
table top.

My question comes up because I see equipment with digital height gauges
and micrometer fences. A few people I know spent $1000 on their router
set-up, not including the router itself.

What's up with all that? The BenchDog (small one) comes in at $239.
Their split fence with T-slot channels looks sophisticated.

Gary C.

Edwin,

The first part of your response got cut off. I'd be interested to read
your full message about BenchDogs.

Gary C.

I have the big sucker and I use it with small to medium size piece. The
t-slot and split fence are great and I have mine connected to my dc....sucks
all the chips down and out throught the dc. I know space problems, but if
you plan on using the router/table much, treat it like any other floor
tool....you'll be more at ease and do better work. I had my old one part of
my table saw and for the amount of floor space it takes, I'll never go back
to the old way.

Cheers
John
wrote in message
oups.com...
I am interested in the contractor model (bench-top) in order to save
shoproom space. My shop is under construction, and I see other guys
wiggling like sardines just to manuever through equipment standing on
the floor.

After it is used, the bench-top can be stowed on a shelf, or hung on
wall bracket.

When I say sheet goods, I wouldn't be routing a whole 4x8 panel in one
shot. Small pieces. Probably the largest at 16x24, same size as the
table top.

My question comes up because I see equipment with digital height gauges
and micrometer fences. A few people I know spent $1000 on their router
set-up, not including the router itself.

What's up with all that? The BenchDog (small one) comes in at $239.
Their split fence with T-slot channels looks sophisticated.

Gary C.




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wrote in message
oups.com...
I am shopping for a router table. The BenchDog Contracter model seems
attractive because it sits on top of a bench and can be put away.

Are any other brands really superior? I'll be doing some sheet work,
and doing raised panel doors for cabinets.

I have another machine called a WoodRat for doing joints such as
dovetails, tenons and mortising work.

Gary Curtis
Los Angeles


I weighed the pros/cons of making my own against commercial. I was really
drawn to the designs of the Veritas router table system, especially the
fence system. I bought the fence, router table top, and sled and built the
stand myself from plans in their manual. Its not for everyone, but I am
very pleased. Their fence with sled seems to have more tricks than other
fence systems I've looked at. The table top is probably as strong as
anything out there, since its solid 3/16" steel.

Bob

Bob,

The Veritas equipment is actually about 20% less than competitors. How
does the steel table mount to the base or legs? And how does a miter
guide move across the top without T tracks in the top? And how is the
noise (because of the steel)?

The top is fairly small. Does that cramp your work in any way?
(I've run out of questions.....grunt!)

Gary C.

"BillyBob" wrote in message
fence system. I bought the fence, router table top, and sled and built the
stand myself from plans in their manual. Its not for everyone, but I am
very pleased. Their fence with sled seems to have more tricks than other
fence systems I've looked at. The table top is probably as strong as
anything out there, since its solid 3/16" steel.

Hey Bob,
I've got the Veritas router system on my wishlist, but I was wondering about
the sled. Looking at it, how well does the sled maintain its 90° position
against the fence? Visually anyway, it appears prone to skewing rather
easily.

wrote in message
How does the steel table mount to the base or legs?

If you look at the 'tech' instructions online when viewing the table, you
can see that it has four threaded bolts for mounting welded to the
underside.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Bob,

The Veritas equipment is actually about 20% less than competitors. How
does the steel table mount to the base or legs? And how does a miter
guide move across the top without T tracks in the top? And how is the
noise (because of the steel)?

The top is fairly small. Does that cramp your work in any way?
(I've run out of questions.....grunt!)

The top has some studs built in to the underside. Per instructions, I
bolted some boards to the underside which act to prevent the table from
sliding around. The top sits on top of a shop-built stand using the weight
of the table+router to keep it stable. It seems to work well.

The right angle sled is attached to the fence for cross routing. I think
the fence made by Mast-r-lift works the same way. The fence and sled are
very robust. The sled has adjustable bolts with nylon tips that limit
vertical and horizontal play between the sled and the fence. I would guess
these will wear over time, but they can easily be adjusted to take up any
wear. In practice, there's no discernable wiggle between fence and sled.
Its a very stable set up.

Yes, the top is relatively small (16 x 24). The fence has adjustable clamps
so that it can be attached in any direction. For cross routing, the fence is
mounted front to back, instead of side to side. This makes the table size
much more effective. If I ever have a need for a bigger surface, I guess
I'll add some side supports, like the wings on a table saw. But for my
applications I have not found it to be limiting yet. What's really
important is how rigid and flat the fence-table top combination is. I think
the veritas setup is as good or better than anything out there in this
regard.

Routing is loud anyway and I wear hearing protection, so I have not
evaluated the noise factor.

Bob

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
"BillyBob" wrote in message
fence system. I bought the fence, router table top, and sled and built
the
stand myself from plans in their manual. Its not for everyone, but I am
very pleased. Their fence with sled seems to have more tricks than
other
fence systems I've looked at. The table top is probably as strong as
anything out there, since its solid 3/16" steel.

Hey Bob,
I've got the Veritas router system on my wishlist, but I was wondering
about
the sled. Looking at it, how well does the sled maintain its 90° position
against the fence? Visually anyway, it appears prone to skewing rather
easily.

I wondered the same thing (looking at the pictures). I bought it with full
faith that its returnable. The fence and sled are "big as your wrist"
sturdy. I'm very satisifed with the stability. I think its more rigid than
a miter track.

Bob

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
I've got the Veritas router system on my wishlist,

I backed into buying the whole system. Originally I was just going to buy a
sturdy bench dog metal insert to mount the router in a shop built table. So
I was looking at about $80. Then I looked at labor and materials added and
it was within striking distance of the Veritas router table top. So I
bought it. Well, Lee Valley includes a video of their whole system with the
table top. After I saw what all the fence/sled did, I had to have it. Lee
Valley allowed me to purchase the additional items and still get the package
price ($324). The attributes of the fence are really not apparent on line
or when looking at their manuals.

Bob

"BillyBob" wrote in message
bought it. Well, Lee Valley includes a video of their whole system with
the
table top. After I saw what all the fence/sled did, I had to have it.

If there's not too much to list, what extra qualities does the video show in
regards to the fence and sled? I'm gung ho on most of it, but I'm still
trying to imagine what the sled can do aside from stuff like box joints.

On Mon, 18 Jul 2005 05:36:53 GMT, "BillyBob"
wrote:


wrote in message
roups.com...
I am shopping for a router table. The BenchDog Contracter model seems
attractive because it sits on top of a bench and can be put away.

Are any other brands really superior? I'll be doing some sheet work,
and doing raised panel doors for cabinets.

I have another machine called a WoodRat for doing joints such as
dovetails, tenons and mortising work.

Gary Curtis
Los Angeles


I weighed the pros/cons of making my own against commercial. I was really
drawn to the designs of the Veritas router table system, especially the
fence system. I bought the fence, router table top, and sled and built the
stand myself from plans in their manual. Its not for everyone, but I am
very pleased. Their fence with sled seems to have more tricks than other
fence systems I've looked at. The table top is probably as strong as
anything out there, since its solid 3/16" steel.

A whole 3/16"!!! ? FWIW, I've bent steel that thick -by accident-
at work . OTOH, I've not known Veritas to make a shoddy prduct, so
I'm sure it's all right- just sounded hilarious to me (ever lifted up
a 24' length of 3/16" thick steel? It's about as sturdy as a spagetti
noodle!)

At any rate, for the OP- Consider making your own, with a fold-up top.
Make two "legs" out of 3/4" ply that are connected to the wall studs
with piano hinges, and a fold-down top that secures to the wall when
not in use. You'll not only save space and money, but you'll still
have most of the benefits of a full-size router table as well. That'd
be my vote anyhow.

I also have the LV system with a Hitachi M12V mounted under it. Built a
frame out of old oak flooring for the top to rest on & tip up for
access. Dust collection out the back is acceptable with the LV magnetic
hood & a small shop vac. Just vac below the frame at end of day for
drop thru. Magnetic feather boards from TS work on this top & with
cross slide you don't have to worry about fence parallel to Tslot.
Table is sure strong & flat. Router mounting is good for quick removal,
but you must make sure it is tightened back in properly or you get
"random height adjustment." DAMHKT.

Sure I'd like table bigger but it's been fine for most tasks. Only
modification needed has been adding a table on top to pick up depth for
horizontal panel raising bit which won't retract far enough into the
router with the Hitachi "bushing ears" on. That concept of a covering
table butting the fence could probably be used to extend size of the
small steel table when needed.

Has anyone used the "bit-jack" attachment for height adjustment? Looks
interesting and reasonable in price.

Jerry

On 17 Jul 2005 12:21:50 -0700, wrote:

I am interested in the contractor model (bench-top) in order to save
shoproom space. My shop is under construction, and I see other guys
wiggling like sardines just to manuever through equipment standing on
the floor.

After it is used, the bench-top can be stowed on a shelf, or hung on
wall bracket.

When I say sheet goods, I wouldn't be routing a whole 4x8 panel in one
shot. Small pieces. Probably the largest at 16x24, same size as the
table top.

My question comes up because I see equipment with digital height gauges
and micrometer fences. A few people I know spent $1000 on their router
set-up, not including the router itself.

What's up with all that? The BenchDog (small one) comes in at $239.
Their split fence with T-slot channels looks sophisticated.

Gary C.
===================
I have and use the small Benchdog Router table... (in addition to a
router set in my tablesaws extention table, a overhead "pin" router
and a horizointal router table... all with dedicated routers ...

Honestly the Benchdog is a top notch table... BUT I do not think you
will be hanging it on the wall.... on a shelf or under the workbench
maybe but not on the wall....

I understand you point about the sardines...because after 40 years as
a serious woodworker my shop is way over crowded... lol...happens
its just a matter of time....LOL...

As for digital height guages micrometer fences, router lifts etc..

I Ain't got none..

And have no real need ...or desire,.. for them...

IF I had the space...and IF I were "buying" rather then making a New
Router table I would be looking at a table that held two routers and
had a pretty large table area...

Lots of luck.... all I can say is I absolutely love my Benchdog which
I purchased to do just one job for my daughter out of state...worked
so well it now is my primary router table in the shop... and yes I did
have to make room for it...

Bob G..

I can't see buying a router table that comes with a factory warp.

"BillyBob" wrote in message
ink.net...

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am shopping for a router table. The BenchDog Contracter model seems
attractive because it sits on top of a bench and can be put away.

Are any other brands really superior? I'll be doing some sheet work,
and doing raised panel doors for cabinets.

I have another machine called a WoodRat for doing joints such as
dovetails, tenons and mortising work.

Gary Curtis
Los Angeles


I weighed the pros/cons of making my own against commercial. I was really
drawn to the designs of the Veritas router table system, especially the
fence system. I bought the fence, router table top, and sled and built the
stand myself from plans in their manual. Its not for everyone, but I am
very pleased. Their fence with sled seems to have more tricks than other
fence systems I've looked at. The table top is probably as strong as
anything out there, since its solid 3/16" steel.

Bob

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...

A whole 3/16"!!! ? FWIW, I've bent steel that thick -by accident-
at work . OTOH, I've not known Veritas to make a shoddy prduct, so
I'm sure it's all right- just sounded hilarious to me (ever lifted up
a 24' length of 3/16" thick steel? It's about as sturdy as a spagetti
noodle!)

That's why it comes pre warped.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
"BillyBob" wrote in message
bought it. Well, Lee Valley includes a video of their whole system with
the
table top. After I saw what all the fence/sled did, I had to have it.

If there's not too much to list, what extra qualities does the video show
in
regards to the fence and sled? I'm gung ho on most of it, but I'm still
trying to imagine what the sled can do aside from stuff like box joints.

I tried to write words to explain it in response to your question and I
couldn't do it well. I think I'll revert to the tried and true posting of
pictures in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. I'll mention some of the
gadgety features here and use the pictures to show how they are used.

1. Veritas has some optional "position stops" that can be clamped to the
edge of the table. See http://tinyurl.com/92jak. By using four of these on
either side of the fence, you can release the fence and slide it along its
axis. Your workpiece can be clamped to the fence and moved with the fence
to perform some operations more easily.

2. The sled can be locked to the fence and moved as a unit with the fence
using the aforementioned position stops.

3. The lower half of the fence splits and can be spread up to 8" wide. This
allows you to stick an long piece of wood through the fence to perform some
types of cross routing operations.

4. The sled has a built in adjustable set of metal reference keys for
cutting finger joints.

None of these options provide features that cannot be performed using other
jigs and fixtures. But combined they provide very convenient and flexible
configurations in an integrated rigid, precise system. Wooden jigs and
fixtures are easy to make and get the job done, but its hard to beat
machined metal for precision and longevity.

I used position stops coupled with the sled last weekend to cut a seried of
parallel slots to make some F-clamp holders for my clamp stand. My thinking
while working with this set up was "wow, it doesn't get any easier than
this". I also purchased the optional magnetic dust chute. This has proven
to be much more useful than I imagined. There are numerous routing
configurations where the behind the fence vacuum will not do any good. This
magnetic dust chute can be positioned anywhere on the table with or without
the fence. I'm surprised how many situations I've used it already where I
placed it out in the middle of the table to catch the dust. Since its
magnetic, you are not constrained by the location of fence slots or miter
tracks and you can adjust it to any angle and very close to the router bit.

Bob

"BillyBob" wrote in message

I tried to write words to explain it in response to your question and I
couldn't do it well.

Thanks, I appreciate the detailed response.

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...

A whole 3/16"!!! ? FWIW, I've bent steel that thick -by accident-
at work . OTOH, I've not known Veritas to make a shoddy prduct, so
I'm sure it's all right- just sounded hilarious to me (ever lifted up
a 24' length of 3/16" thick steel? It's about as sturdy as a spagetti
noodle!)

If you have 24' lengths of steel at work, then I bet you work with tools and
machines that could easily bend my table saw in half. :-)

Many people make their tops out of two layers of 3/4" MDF. I'd like to see
how much flex you have in a 24' long piece of MDF. :-) :-)

Bob

On Sat, 23 Jul 2005 12:52:35 GMT, "BillyBob"
wrote:


"Prometheus" wrote in message
.. .

A whole 3/16"!!! ? FWIW, I've bent steel that thick -by accident-
at work . OTOH, I've not known Veritas to make a shoddy prduct, so
I'm sure it's all right- just sounded hilarious to me (ever lifted up
a 24' length of 3/16" thick steel? It's about as sturdy as a spagetti
noodle!)

If you have 24' lengths of steel at work, then I bet you work with tools and
machines that could easily bend my table saw in half. :-)

Well, that's true enough. But I can bend even a short piece 3/16" by
hand pretty easily, unless it's an angle iron or tube.

Many people make their tops out of two layers of 3/4" MDF. I'd like to see
how much flex you have in a 24' long piece of MDF. :-) :-)

Okay, I see your point.

Bob

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
"BillyBob" wrote in message

I tried to write words to explain it in response to your question and I
couldn't do it well.

Thanks, I appreciate the detailed response.


I mentioned the position stops. Over the weekend I became acquainted with
the value of these simple devices. Once you get the fence set for a
position that you plan to repeat, you can install a couple of position stops
to mark the fence position. This allows you to remove the fence or
reposition it to make lighter cuts and iteratively approach the full width
of the cut back to the "locked" position against the position stops. Its a
dirt simple concept that can be applied to many fence/table setups. These
happen to be small and elegant and very reliable to set.

Bob

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...

Well, that's true enough. But I can bend even a short piece 3/16" by
hand pretty easily, unless it's an angle iron or tube.

I'm not sure what width your talking about or what grade of steel, but
really don't think you could bend this top. I'm a pretty stout guy and I
can't even come close to warping it.

Bob

"BillyBob" wrote in message

I mentioned the position stops. Over the weekend I became acquainted with
the value of these simple devices.

I like the micro-adjust mechanism. Have you played with it at all? Seems
like it would make it very easy to sneak up on the exactly routing depth one
requires as well as making the action repeatable if you have to change it in
mid stride for a different rout.