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#1
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Glue-up jig - how to make non-stick?
I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the
jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. |
#2
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Dan Major wrote:
I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. Just finish them w/ and wax...nothing except the CA-types will stick. I typically just use a sheet of wax paper in between to make it even easier cleanup, however... |
#3
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Wax paper works pretty well for this, and I've heard that packing tape
also does the trick. -John |
#4
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In article , Dan Major wrote:
I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. You could try melamine board. Titebond, anyway, doesn't stick to it. Not sure about Gorilla Glue or CA. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#5
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Dan Major (in ) said:
| I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need | the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up | construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or | nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Dan... Follow the link below for one approach that's served me well for glue-ups using Titebond. It provides good alignment for box-like constructions - and I've never managed to glue it to the work. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/drawer_clamp.html |
#6
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Dan
I wrap projects in "saran wrap". You can buy industrial size rolls - works like a charm and doesn't affect glue time or clamping pressure. I also line all the clamps with cork - it will still bond, but the two in combination are guaranteed. my 2-cents Schroeder "Dan Major" wrote in message .6... I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. |
#7
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#8
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Lee DeRaud wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:51:16 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: You could try melamine board. Titebond, anyway, doesn't stick to it. Not sure about Gorilla Glue or CA. Dunno about actual "Gorilla Glue", but Titebond polyurethane glue works great with it. "works great with it" meaning glues it effectively, or releases? In my experimental butt joint of melamine laminated MDF to a face of melamine, it held so effectively that the melamine delaminated when I managed to break the joint. -- Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently. |
#9
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Dan Major wrote:
I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. 1) Shellac followed by a thin, well-buffed-out coat of paste wax. Made the mistake of doing a workbench that way, and had to re level it so everything didn't just slide off. But glue releases very well. (Not sure about CA, though. But can remove it with acetone, I believe.) 2) wax paper, but I'd avoid putting it where your workpiece rubs, as you don't want the wax getting on your work. And it will--anyone else here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with wax paper? -- Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently. |
#10
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"alexy" wrote anyone else here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with wax paper? When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid velocity beyond any measure of safety! |
#11
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"Lee Michaels" wrote:
"alexy" wrote anyone else here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with wax paper? When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid velocity beyond any measure of safety! Ahh... memories!! -- Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently. |
#12
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"alexy" wrote "Lee Michaels" wrote: "alexy" wrote anyone else here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with wax paper? When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid velocity beyond any measure of safety! Ahh... memories!! If this was done today, the kids would probably be locked up as terrorists! It would be considered a form of child endangerment. Lawyers would salivate thinking about big money lawsuits. Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal slide these days? And we were just kids having fun!! Is fun for kids outlawed now? |
#13
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In article ,
Dan Major wrote: I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. I keep a roll of wax paper in the shop for just this reason. For a high-use permanent jig, perhaps you could laminate or use melamine-coated PB. Wax works OK but you will have to reapply it periodically. -- Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland |
#14
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In article ,
Lee Michaels wrote: "alexy" wrote anyone else here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with wax paper? When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid velocity beyond any measure of safety! And as someone once suggested here on the wreck, use wax paper to quickly wax a plane sole or tablesaw top. -- Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland |
#15
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Lee Michaels wrote:
"alexy" wrote anyone else here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with wax paper? When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid velocity beyond any measure of safety! My dad told me that, when he was a kid, he'd wrap a cat's paws in wax paper and send it sliding onto the kitchen floor. Lots of fun watching it try to stand up. |
#16
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Lee Michaels wrote:
.... Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal slide these days? Yeah, I've watched w/ disgust on the TV news the neutering of Wichita playgrounds by the correctness police... They took out the "rocket tower" that had been in a park since the early 60's a couple years ago and this summer destroyed all the concrete climbing animal figures, all of which had been there from at least that long ago. The supposed justification was they had had some lead-based paint at some distant time and by scraping on the bottoms and other inaccesible places they had managed to remove a tiny scraping or two... |
#17
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Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
.... And as someone once suggested here on the wreck, use wax paper to quickly wax a plane sole or tablesaw top. Sorta' works, but much quicker to simply use the wax directly for that aaplication imo... |
#18
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:44:06 GMT, Dan Major wrote:
I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. being lazy, I've always put blue masking tape on the jig... makes cleanup easy and it doesn't throw off the fit if the tape is applied smoothly.... Mac 03 Tahoe Widelite 26GT Travel Trailer replaced 1958 Hilite tent trailer 99 Dodge Ram QQ 2wd - 5.9L, auto, 3:55 gears |
#19
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Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably
since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal slide these days? I'll build you one... There is a 200' version in Saranac NY at a Young Life camp. They wet it down and you go down backwards, head first onto the lake and hydroplane across the surface for a good 15' or so... I did it ONCE. That was enough. -- Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 http://www.AutoDrill.com http://www.Multi-Drill.com V8013-R |
#20
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 11:06:34 -0400, alexy wrote:
Lee DeRaud wrote: On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:51:16 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: You could try melamine board. Titebond, anyway, doesn't stick to it. Not sure about Gorilla Glue or CA. Dunno about actual "Gorilla Glue", but Titebond polyurethane glue works great with it. "works great with it" meaning glues it effectively, or releases? In my experimental butt joint of melamine laminated MDF to a face of melamine, it held so effectively that the melamine delaminated when I managed to break the joint. Sorry, that's what I meant: the glue "worked great", as in "stuck like glue". Lee |
#21
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Dan Major wrote:
I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. Wax paper. |
#22
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 11:25:33 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
wrote: Yep, I remember doing that. It worked just fine too. That is until one of the first graders decided that it would be fun to slide down head first, landing on his nose, forhead, chin, etc. The teacher than had us slide down on sand for an entire resess. The slide was never the same after that. :-) Yes, the memories this group brings to mind! "alexy" wrote anyone else here old enough to remember waxing the back yard sliding board with wax paper? When I was a kid, we had a huge, metal slide at out school. We brought sandwiches to school wrapped in wax paper. We would save the wax paper and bring it out to the slide. Just slide the wax paper under our butts and rocket down the slide. Do this enough times and we could improve the kid velocity beyond any measure of safety! |
#23
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Greetings and Salutations....
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 11:28:01 -0500, Duane Bozarth wrote: Lee Michaels wrote: ... Come to think of it, hasn't all playgound equipment shrunk considerably since we were kids? What would be the chance of finding a large metal slide these days? Yeah, I've watched w/ disgust on the TV news the neutering of Wichita playgrounds by the correctness police... They took out the "rocket tower" that had been in a park since the early 60's a couple years ago and this summer destroyed all the concrete climbing animal figures, all of which had been there from at least that long ago. The supposed justification was they had had some lead-based paint at some distant time and by scraping on the bottoms and other inaccesible places they had managed to remove a tiny scraping or two... All part of that grand conspiracy to keep us all in diapers for our entire life. After all, it IS in the best interests of those in power to keep the vast majority of citizens ignorant, fearful, and incompetent. Now, having popped out THAT theory...The problem is more that for some reason over the past 30 year or so, Americans have bought into the concept that life can be totally safe. Take my word for it (or not), life is NOT safe. And, in a lot of cases there is NOT a lot we can rationally do to make it less dangerous. In conjunction with that, many folks have developed the belief that when bad things happen it is ALWAYS someone else's responsibility...and that they should get a big compensation for it. That is ONE of the reasons that lawyers drive the new cars and can afford to wear the expensive suits. This sort of attitude is exemplified by the fellow over in Texas who rescued the drowning man, and was immediately arrested and held in jail overnight. His "crime" was to make a decision to go back under water ONE more time to try and get the drowning guy up, instead of following the police instructions to get out of the water. Now, it might have been that if he HAD followed their instructions, the drowning guy would still have been rescued in time. But, I suspect that since the rescue crews were just showing up when he was pulling the guy up, the victim would have been brain dead, and, it would have become more of a body recovery than a rescue. Now...as for the lead paint issue. My parents dealt with the problem by training me NOT to chew on inappropriate things... If a kid is in the habit of scraping paint off of things and eating it, or, picking up flakes of stuff off the ground and eating them, perhaps the attention should be focused more on WHY he or she is doing this obviously inappropriate thing...rather than trying to get rid of ALL stuff like that. Regards Dave Mundt |
#24
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In article ,
Dan Major wrote: something the glue wouldn't stick to Like some others, I use melamine for my smaller clamping cauls but for my larger ones, I put a strip of clear packing tape on the spruceyfirrypineywood's contact face, wrapping around the edges. No problems at all with yellow glues or poly. I just finished some Ipe glueups with polyglue and used wax paper to protect the work surface. That too worked well and didn't stick. -- Owen Lowe The Fly-by-Night Copper Company __________ "I pledge allegiance to the flag of the Corporate States of America and to the Republicans for which it stands, one nation, under debt, easily divisible, with liberty and justice for oil." - Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05 |
#25
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Dave Mundt wrote: Now...as for the lead paint issue. My parents dealt with the problem by training me NOT to chew on inappropriate things... If a kid is in the habit of scraping paint off of things and eating it, or, picking up flakes of stuff off the ground and eating them, perhaps the attention should be focused more on WHY he or she is doing this obviously inappropriate thing...rather than trying to get rid of ALL stuff like that. I dunno Dave. For older children I might agree, but I have yet to meet a child in the 1-2 yr old range who 1) doesn't put nearly everything it can get hold of into its mouth, and 2) is capable of reasoned instruction. The lead problem for them is real, and that's the age when they're most susceptible. Even for older children, I would not want to assume that the primary way they ingest this stuff is by picking up chips and chewing on them. Even adults with good reasoning faculties rub up against or come into contact with lead, and it somehow gets on the hands, which easily transfer to nose, mouth, and eyes. Luckily, minor amounts of lead don't affect adults that much (as far as we know at this point), but the consequences are less optimistic for developing children. As great as lead was for its UV protection etc., I'm glad we've legislated it away for the most part, for childrens' sake. H. |
#26
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:44:06 GMT, Dan Major
wrote: I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. I apply a finish (tung oil or danish oil, whatever is available) to jigs that may come in contact with glue. After a couple days you can apply Johnsons Paste Wax, giving added protection from glue. If you are in a hurry wax paper works well. |
#27
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Thanks for all the suggestions! I'll try the wax paper and see how well it
works. |
#28
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:44:06 GMT, Dan Major
wrote: try using wax paper or celophane I need to make some jigs to glue up a bunch of small parts. I need the jigs to assure alignment and square and to speed up construction. I was hoping to get the jigs made out of delrin or nylon, something the glue wouldn't stick to. Failing that, and if I have to make the jigs out of wood, how can I keep the jigs from getting stuck to the parts. I'm working with a variety of woods. Most of the time I'll be using alephatic resin glue (titebond or similar), but may have to use polyurathane (gorilla glue) or CA (crazy glue type stuff) for some of the exotics. Any ideas what finish/wax I can use to keep the glue from sticking? I don't know if a conventional mold release type agent would work, I'm worried about something like that soaking into the wood and either ruining the finish or getting into the joint and keeping the glue from setting up properly. |
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