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D. J.
 
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Default Hinge installation will be the death of me!

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges that
are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to install
correctly so that the door closes properly.

I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to alighn
the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes of the hinge
on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems to work.

To make it a little clearer, an example of what I'm talking about is a
wall clock that has a glass door on top and below a seperator. The door
assembly fits beautifully when laid on the carcus but trying to afix it
that way is another story. I'm sure open to any ideas of people who
have struggeled with this before me.

Don
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Mike Marlow
 
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"D. J." wrote in message
...
For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges that
are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to install
correctly so that the door closes properly.

I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to alighn
the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes of the hinge
on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems to work.

To make it a little clearer, an example of what I'm talking about is a
wall clock that has a glass door on top and below a seperator. The door
assembly fits beautifully when laid on the carcus but trying to afix it
that way is another story. I'm sure open to any ideas of people who
have struggeled with this before me.

Don


It's really not that bad a thing Don. Set a hinge on either the door or the
jamb and note how much the barrel protrudes from the edge of the piece.
Make a precise measurement. By "set", I mean to mortise in and screw down
one half of the hinge. It really does not matter how much the barrel
protrudes, as long as the hinge plate sits ok on the door. One thing you
can do is to lay the hinge plate on the door and let the other half flop
down on to the door. Push the barrel in towards the door until you get both
half of the hinge in contact with the door - one on the edge, one on the
face. As long as the hinge plate does not stick out beyond the edge of the
door, this will give you a good location for the hinge on the door edge.
Scribe it with a sheetrock knife, mortise it and screw it home.

Measure the setback of the barrel from the edge of the door and hold the
jamb hinge plate on the jamb, at the same setback. Mark it, mortise it and
screw it in.

Put the other hinge(s) on the same way, and hang the door. Don't forget to
allow for an eigth inch reveal at the top of the door.

--

-Mike-



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robo hippy
 
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D.J.
I match the layout lines on the door and the carcas with a square
before mounting the hinges. When drilling the pilot holes for the
hinge, I fold the hinge over the door, to get it square and to get the
proper spacing, and then use one of the self centering drill bits (vix
bits) to get the holes centered. If they aren't centered, the hinge
will move, and the door won't go where you need it to be. I never could
get this to work by just eyeing the centers.
robo hippy

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David
 
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Google "installing door hinge" for oodles of info, D.J.

Dave

D. J. wrote:

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges that
are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to install
correctly so that the door closes properly.

I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to alighn
the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes of the hinge
on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems to work.

To make it a little clearer, an example of what I'm talking about is a
wall clock that has a glass door on top and below a seperator. The door
assembly fits beautifully when laid on the carcus but trying to afix it
that way is another story. I'm sure open to any ideas of people who
have struggeled with this before me.

Don



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loutent
 
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In article , D. J.
wrote:

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges that
are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to install
correctly so that the door closes properly.

I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to alighn
the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes of the hinge
on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems to work.

To make it a little clearer, an example of what I'm talking about is a
wall clock that has a glass door on top and below a seperator. The door
assembly fits beautifully when laid on the carcus but trying to afix it
that way is another story. I'm sure open to any ideas of people who
have struggeled with this before me.

Don


Hi Don,

I don't think that there is an easy answer to your
problem - at least I have never found it. A production
type shop with big equipment is a different story.

With inset doors (I guess what you are talking about)
there is a lot of "farting" around to get a good fit. I have
vix bits and use them, but still find that a jointer that
is able to take off a 64ths is the answer. I have used
DS tape and all the rest, but I don't think that a small
workshop can get these fitted in a single try - unless
you do it all the time. There are a lot of intstall/remove/
re-install sessions. How many? - until it's right.

When I hear the word "overlay", I get a big smile
these days.

By the way, "farting" refers to 64ths or less
while "****ing" refers to 32nds or greater

- MHO.

Lou
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D. J.
 
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D. J. wrote:
For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges that
are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to install
correctly so that the door closes properly.

I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to alighn
the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes of the hinge
on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems to work.

To make it a little clearer, an example of what I'm talking about is a
wall clock that has a glass door on top and below a seperator. The door
assembly fits beautifully when laid on the carcus but trying to afix it
that way is another story. I'm sure open to any ideas of people who
have struggeled with this before me.

Don



I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I saved each one of
them and will study them. With this level of help, I should be able to
whip this.

Don
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Patriarch
 
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"D. J." wrote in
:

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I saved each one of
them and will study them. With this level of help, I should be able
to whip this.

Don


Did you buy the $300 worth of chisels, and the fancy new hand planes? You
_will_ want those, too.

;-)

Patience, grasshopper.

Patriarch
  #10   Report Post  
dadiOH
 
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D. J. wrote:
For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges
that are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to
install correctly so that the door closes properly.

I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to
alighn the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes of
the hinge on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems to
work.


1. Use a jig/template the same length as the stiles/inside of case to
cut the mortises in the stiles/case.

2. Use the same jig to cut the mortises in the doors *BUT* adjust the
position to allow for the clearance between case and door tops/bottoms;
i.e, the jig will protrude past the door tops/bottoms by whatever
clearance you used.

3. Place hinge in door mortise and make holes for screws.

4. Place hinge in door mortise and make holes for screws.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




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nospambob
 
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Good variety of suggestions so far and another one is make something
with pointed ends to fit in the second half of the hinge and secure
with tape. Close door and drill where indicated. Not tested just
thought after reading the others.

On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 14:03:11 -0500, "D. J."
wrote:

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges that
are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to install
correctly so that the door closes properly.


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Robatoy
 
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I use measurements. Never fails. I have this 12" stainless steel rule
I bought from LV 17-18 years ago. What is special about it, is that the
first increment actually *is* a 1/8 or 1/16 or (flipping it over) 1/32
or 1/64.
Then, a sharp pencil and how can it fail?
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robo hippy
 
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For marking, I use a knife. The line is finer than any pencil.
robo hippy

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