Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Problem painting MDF
Hi everyone, I am working on a large (24in x 34in ) shadow box that needs to
be painted gloss black. It needs to be done cheaply so I used some MDF that I had laying around. I'm using cheapo spray paint from WalMart and am having trouble with the rounded edges not taking the paint. The flat surfaces are fine but where I used a round over bit the MDF is behaving like end grain-it's just sucking up the paint. I shot a primer coat and three top coats and still cannot get a nice finish. Before painting I also sanded to 220 grit so it should be smooth enough. Can anyone shed light on this problem? Thanks, Gene -- This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus software |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
In article ,
"Gene T" wrote: Hi everyone, I am working on a large (24in x 34in ) shadow box that needs to be painted gloss black. It needs to be done cheaply so I used some MDF that I had laying around. I'm using cheapo spray paint from WalMart and am having trouble with the rounded edges not taking the paint. The flat surfaces are fine but where I used a round over bit the MDF is behaving like end grain-it's just sucking up the paint. I shot a primer coat and three top coats and still cannot get a nice finish. Before painting I also sanded to 220 grit so it should be smooth enough. Can anyone shed light on this problem? Thanks, Gene Think sponge. You need to seal the porosity. I use lacquer-based automotive finishing putty. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Gene T wrote:
Hi everyone, I am working on a large (24in x 34in ) shadow box that needs to be painted gloss black. It needs to be done cheaply so I used some MDF that I had laying around. I'm using cheapo spray paint from WalMart and am having trouble with the rounded edges not taking the paint. The flat surfaces are fine but where I used a round over bit the MDF is behaving like end grain-it's just sucking up the paint. I shot a primer coat and three top coats and still cannot get a nice finish. Before painting I also sanded to 220 grit so it should be smooth enough. Can anyone shed light on this problem? Thanks, Gene The spray paints (Pressure Packs) are just to thin for MDF edges. Get out a brush and give them a coat of acrylic Black or undercoat-sealer. Sand back nice and smooth and then spray. All should be OK. Regards John |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
"Gene T" wrote in
: Hi everyone, I am working on a large (24in x 34in ) shadow box that needs to be painted gloss black. It needs to be done cheaply so I used some MDF that I had laying around. I'm using cheapo spray paint from WalMart and am having trouble with the rounded edges not taking the paint. The flat surfaces are fine but where I used a round over bit the MDF is behaving like end grain-it's just sucking up the paint. I shot a primer coat and three top coats and still cannot get a nice finish. Before painting I also sanded to 220 grit so it should be smooth enough. Can anyone shed light on this problem? Thanks, Gene An article in FWW and/or FHB showed sealing the cut edges of MDF with thinned drywall taping compound. Fills, smooths and pretty much seals the edges. Use before priming. Or so I'm told. I use very little of the stuff, personally. Patriarch |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Gene T" wrote in message ... Before painting I also sanded to 220 grit so it should be smooth enough. Can anyone shed light on this problem? Thanks, Gene When ever I finish MDF with paint I prime the hell out of it. I use Krylon spray primer and lay it on until it looks like it will run, then I let it dry, and put on one or two more heavy coats, with a light sanding in between. Keep laying on the primer until it quits absorbing into the MDF. Greg |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for all of the useful info guys. I didn't realize how porous MDF
was. Now I wish I had used polar instead!!! Gene "Gene T" wrote in message ... Hi everyone, I am working on a large (24in x 34in ) shadow box that needs to be painted gloss black. It needs to be done cheaply so I used some MDF that I had laying around. I'm using cheapo spray paint from WalMart and am having trouble with the rounded edges not taking the paint. The flat surfaces are fine but where I used a round over bit the MDF is behaving like end grain-it's just sucking up the paint. I shot a primer coat and three top coats and still cannot get a nice finish. Before painting I also sanded to 220 grit so it should be smooth enough. Can anyone shed light on this problem? Thanks, Gene -- This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus software |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
In article ,
"Gene T" wrote: Now I wish I had used polar instead!!! Gene ....working with that stuff can give you a disorder. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. I seldom make fun of a typo..sorry 'bout that. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
You can also buy special primer for MDF too
Most big box tool stores should have it. -- Regards, Dean Bielanowski Editor, Online Tool Reviews http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com Complete our tool survey, Win $200! ------------------------------------------------------------ Latest 6 Reviews: - Sherwood OS-100 Oscillating Spindle Sander - Porter Cable NS150A Narrow Crown Stapler - Book: Popular Mechanics Shelving & Storage - Betterley Tru-Cut Insert System - Digital Calipers & Height Gauge - Delta SS250 Scroll Saw (Review Updated) ------------------------------------------------------------ |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"Gene T" wrote in message ... Hi everyone, I am working on a large (24in x 34in ) shadow box that needs to be painted gloss black. It needs to be done cheaply so I used some MDF that I had laying around. I'm using cheapo spray paint from WalMart and am having trouble with the rounded edges not taking the paint. The flat surfaces are fine but where I used a round over bit the MDF is behaving like end grain-it's just sucking up the paint. I shot a primer coat and three top coats and still cannot get a nice finish. Before painting I also sanded to 220 grit so it should be smooth enough. Can anyone shed light on this problem? Unfortunately I work with MDF all too often, I find no joy out in working with it whatsoever. I make a light wash of PVA and water and "pre-prime" (hey, did I just invent a new term?) the MDF edges with that, let it dry and then prime & paint normally. Occasionally I may also need to do some filling but I do that after priming and usually add a second coat of primer over the filler. It works for me, anyway. - Andy |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I used shellac for this purpose and found that it did a good job of
sealing the surface. After each coat (did several) I sanded the surface to make it smooth. Has anyone tried shellac as a primer? Have you found that the other methods mentioned did a better job? |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I have used it ith success.
I like shellac for it's quick-drying, and it "sandability". -Steve wrote in message oups.com... I used shellac for this purpose and found that it did a good job of sealing the surface. After each coat (did several) I sanded the surface to make it smooth. Has anyone tried shellac as a primer? Have you found that the other methods mentioned did a better job? |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Oh yes, I forgot that you can add some sandarac (about 10% or so) to
shellac and it makes it less "gummy" and more friable so it sands a lot better. Sandarac is a gum resin that can be purchased from some finishing suppliers. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
In article .com,
wrote: I used shellac for this purpose and found that it did a good job of sealing the surface. After each coat (did several) I sanded the surface to make it smooth. Has anyone tried shellac as a primer? Have you found that the other methods mentioned did a better job? I haven't used plain shellac, but I have used Zinsser BIN primer, which is a shellac based primer with white pigment added. It worked very well for me. -- Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Andy McArdle wrote:
I make a light wash of PVA and water and "pre-prime" (hey, did I just invent a new term?) the MDF edges with that A.K.A. "Glue Size". |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Andy McArdle wrote:
Terminology's one of the problems with being self-taught... I know the feeling. |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
"B a r r y" wrote in message .. . Andy McArdle wrote: I make a light wash of PVA and water and "pre-prime" (hey, did I just invent a new term?) the MDF edges with that A.K.A. "Glue Size". Ah. Thank you. Terminology's one of the problems with being self-taught... - Andy |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Terminology's one of the problems with being self-taught...
I know the feeling. Lessee... glue sizing isn't about wallpaper, tenons go in mortises instead of chucks, and if a plane flies you're doing something wrong? Next I'll be told a jig is not when you hit your thumb and lathing doesn't involve plaster. No. No, I'm not getting the hang of this. I'm going back to pointy sticks. - Andy |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Problem With Painting New Plaster | UK diy | |||
Widespread problem with HP Omnibook XE3-GFs? | Electronics Repair | |||
Problem with room getting too hot from facing the south (even in late October) | Home Repair | |||
Painting plaster Vs papering then painting | UK diy | |||
Problem with retrace lines on EIZO F55S... | Electronics Repair |