I have a lot of chestnut trim in my house, and the baseboards are 8-12"
high. And it's all coated with thick white paint.

While I could take the trim down and strip the paint, I'm wondering if
it'd be possible to do the following:

a) remove the trim,
b) saw off maybe 1/16" to remove the painted face, and maybe
c) resaw it thinner, and thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I can
use.

I'm assuming the trim is 3/4" thick. I'm pretty sure it is.

Now, this seems as though it'd take a really big bandsaw, which I don't
have, and I'm not sure I can rent. Are there other methods by which one
could resaw an 8"-12" board even thinner, that are cheaper, or even
manual?

In article ,
Brian Siano wrote:

I have a lot of chestnut trim in my house, and the baseboards are 8-12"
high.

cool....




And it's all coated with thick white paint.

you have my sympathies.





While I could take the trim down and strip the paint,

this is your best option.




I'm wondering if
it'd be possible to do the following:

a) remove the trim,
b) saw off maybe 1/16" to remove the painted face, and maybe
c) resaw it thinner, and thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I can
use.


it is "possible", yes.




I'm assuming the trim is 3/4" thick. I'm pretty sure it is.


this is pretty thin to be resawing from. assuming everything goes
perfectly you might get two 1/4" pieces.




Now, this seems as though it'd take a really big bandsaw, which I don't
have, and I'm not sure I can rent. Are there other methods by which one
could resaw an 8"-12" board even thinner, that are cheaper, or even
manual?



of course there are. bandsaws haven't been around since the beginning of
time (though they have been around for a pretty long time) and people
have been cutting boards in half the hard way for as long as they have
been cutting boards in half. do a search for "bowsaw" and read up on it.
then get some paint stripper and get that paint off of your trim.

Brian,

May want to do a test and see if that is lead based paint. Kits are
available at the borgs.

Bob S.

"Brian Siano" wrote in message
...
I have a lot of chestnut trim in my house, and the baseboards are 8-12"
high. And it's all coated with thick white paint.

While I could take the trim down and strip the paint, I'm wondering if
it'd be possible to do the following:

a) remove the trim,
b) saw off maybe 1/16" to remove the painted face, and maybe
c) resaw it thinner, and thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I can
use.

I'm assuming the trim is 3/4" thick. I'm pretty sure it is.

Now, this seems as though it'd take a really big bandsaw, which I don't
have, and I'm not sure I can rent. Are there other methods by which one
could resaw an 8"-12" board even thinner, that are cheaper, or even
manual?

I have done 8" on my table saw. It leaves a web that you can easily cut
with a handsaw.

You can also rip it, resaw it, and glue it. A lot of work, but if you want
to maximize your use without having the proper equipment....

What about running the baseboards through a planer to take off the
paint? (again, providing it's not lead-based...)

Brian Siano wrote:

I have a lot of chestnut trim in my house, and the baseboards are 8-12"
high. And it's all coated with thick white paint.

While I could take the trim down and strip the paint, I'm wondering if
it'd be possible to do the following:

a) remove the trim,
b) saw off maybe 1/16" to remove the painted face, and maybe
c) resaw it thinner, and thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I can
use.

I'm assuming the trim is 3/4" thick. I'm pretty sure it is.

Now, this seems as though it'd take a really big bandsaw, which I don't
have, and I'm not sure I can rent. Are there other methods by which one
could resaw an 8"-12" board even thinner, that are cheaper, or even
manual?

Congratulations on the chestnut. Resawing by hand is problematic
with that thin a piece of stock. You might be better off to strip
what paint you can, and then planing the surfaces to remove any
leftover paint.
YMMV,
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/

" What about running the baseboards through a planer to take off the
paint? (again, providing it's not lead-based...)


Bad idea.

Paint is amazingly abrasive.

The blades might last through a board. DAMHIKT

What about taking it off, flipping it over, then putting it back up?

bridger wrote:

I'm assuming the trim is 3/4" thick. I'm pretty sure it is.

this is pretty thin to be resawing from. assuming everything goes
perfectly you might get two 1/4" pieces.

That's what I was hoping for, actually. I could take the 1/4" thick
chestnut, and glue it onto a strong-but-cheaper backing, like 1/2"
plywood or oak. I'd thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I'd have.

Now, this seems as though it'd take a really big bandsaw, which I don't
have, and I'm not sure I can rent. Are there other methods by which one
could resaw an 8"-12" board even thinner, that are cheaper, or even
manual?

of course there are. bandsaws haven't been around since the beginning of
time (though they have been around for a pretty long time) and people
have been cutting boards in half the hard way for as long as they have
been cutting boards in half. do a search for "bowsaw" and read up on it.
then get some paint stripper and get that paint off of your trim.

Just did-- and the first page I found suggested a framesaw instead. It'd
be interesting if I could work up some way of keeping the saw cutting at
a semi-uniform thickness.

As for paint stripping, I did a web page on it at briansiano.com. I can
do it, and stripping a flat board is easy. But my resawing scheme would,
if successful, increase my chestnut face-area, and provide some nice
fresh chestnut face for my place. (I'm more partial to mahogany,
however, and if I could resaw _that_, boy, I could do some nice
bookshelves...)

Use a planer or wide belt sander. Much faster, easier and minimium of
material removed.

Hmph. This puts a kink in my plans to resurface some reclaimed decking
redwood...

Stephen M wrote:
" What about running the baseboards through a planer to take off the
paint? (again, providing it's not lead-based...)


Bad idea.

Paint is amazingly abrasive.

The blades might last through a board. DAMHIKT

Actually, as long as the depth of the the planer cut is more than the
thickness of the paint, the blades aren't cutting through the paint,
but lifting it from below (along w/ some wood fibers), .... no?

Stephen M wrote:
" What about running the baseboards through a planer to take off the
paint? (again, providing it's not lead-based...)


Bad idea.

Paint is amazingly abrasive.

The blades might last through a board. DAMHIKT

TheNewGuy wrote:

Actually, as long as the depth of the the planer cut is more than the
thickness of the paint, the blades aren't cutting through the paint,
but lifting it from below (along w/ some wood fibers), .... no?

Afraid not. They'll have to pass through the layer of paint as they cut
upwards. And then there's the problem of paint clogging onto the blades,
and the creation of fine paint dust, which one wants to avoid when
there's the prospect of lead.

TheNewGuy wrote:
What about running the baseboards through a planer to take off the
paint? (again, providing it's not lead-based...)


I used my old Makita portable planer to take paint off the rails and
skirts off a home built pool table. Worked fine and the blades were
perhaps a bit dulled by it, but not so much as to screw up the boards.
I wouldn't hesitate to try it on the baseboards.
mahalo,
jo4hn

"jo4hn" wrote in message
ink.net...
TheNewGuy wrote:
What about running the baseboards through a planer to take off the
paint? (again, providing it's not lead-based...)


I used my old Makita portable planer to take paint off the rails and
skirts off a home built pool table. Worked fine and the blades were
perhaps a bit dulled by it, but not so much as to screw up the boards. I
wouldn't hesitate to try it on the baseboards.
mahalo,
jo4hn

a 'this old house' had something that looked like a biscuit jointer tool,
but with an exposed cutting blade out the bottom. it's used to take the
paint off house siding. it left a pretty smooth surface.

Right, right, cuts through on the upcut; and yes, I mentioned the lead
caution; but with the paint still adhered to a piece of wood - if the
planer cut was deep enough - I don't forsee a big "gumming" problem.
Probably also highly dependant on type and age (dried-ness) of paint.

Of course, theoretical and applied results often diverge; I guess I'll
find out first hand when I start-in on my reclaimed lumber.

Thanks for your cautions, though, Brian.

-Chris

Brian Siano wrote:
TheNewGuy wrote:

Actually, as long as the depth of the the planer cut is more than
the
thickness of the paint, the blades aren't cutting through the
paint,
but lifting it from below (along w/ some wood fibers), .... no?

Afraid not. They'll have to pass through the layer of paint as they
cut
upwards. And then there's the problem of paint clogging onto the
blades,
and the creation of fine paint dust, which one wants to avoid when
there's the prospect of lead.

On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:43:39 -0700, Ray wrote:

What about taking it off, flipping it over, then putting it back up?

Any relatives in Scotland?

On Wed, 18 May 2005 14:52:23 -0400, Brian Siano wrote:

Just did-- and the first page I found suggested a framesaw instead. It'd
be interesting if I could work up some way of keeping the saw cutting at
a semi-uniform thickness.

There is: practice.

Also helps if you can find someone to hold the other end of the frame
resaw. Just take it slow. This kind of saw is easy to make; a little
harder to use well. (I'm at the "use" stage-- "use well" is somewhere down
the road.)

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

"TheNewGuy" wrote in
oups.com:


Right, right, cuts through on the upcut; and yes, I mentioned the lead
caution; but with the paint still adhered to a piece of wood - if the
planer cut was deep enough - I don't forsee a big "gumming" problem.
Probably also highly dependant on type and age (dried-ness) of paint.

Of course, theoretical and applied results often diverge; I guess I'll
find out first hand when I start-in on my reclaimed lumber.

Thanks for your cautions, though, Brian.


It turns out you can buy a LOT of 60 grit sanding belts for the cost of a
set of planer blades. Particularly large planer blades.

Since there are all sorts of unknowns in reclaimed materials, belt sanders
of various types, with decent dust collection/filtration, are usually the
tools of choice. At least for the rough work.

Patriarch

Patriarch,

The reclaimed lumber in this case isn't quite as big an unknown because
it came from my own deck (actually, just the railings). I removed all
screws/nails as I disasembled, but have bought myself the Little(?)
Wizard metal detector to double check before I put boards through the
planer.

I have probably 100-150 linear feet EACH of 4x4, 4x6, and 2x6 redwood
that I want to "refresh" for other (outdoor) projects. I did ALOT of
belt sanding w/ my 3x21 Bosch last Fall to refurbish the decking that
we left in-place (and then stained w/ some Cabot). But the stuff I
removed was "stained" by the previous owner w/ something that is more
"paint-like," meaning it had been flaking off. It was a major PITA to
sand, but yes it's doable. I just had hoped that my planer would make
MUCH quicker work of it all to give me some "like new" redwood to work
with.

Maybe I should buy a "cheap" set of blades for the planer to do this
work? Such a thing? I haven't investigated buying blades yet, just
have the HSS blades that came installed in the General International
30-115 (15").

-Chris



Patriarch wrote:

It turns out you can buy a LOT of 60 grit sanding belts for the cost
of a
set of planer blades. Particularly large planer blades.

Since there are all sorts of unknowns in reclaimed materials, belt
sanders
of various types, with decent dust collection/filtration, are usually
the
tools of choice. At least for the rough work.

Patriarch

Australopithecus scobis wrote:
On Wed, 18 May 2005 14:52:23 -0400, Brian Siano wrote:


Just did-- and the first page I found suggested a framesaw instead. It'd
be interesting if I could work up some way of keeping the saw cutting at
a semi-uniform thickness.

There is: practice.

Also helps if you can find someone to hold the other end of the frame
resaw. Just take it slow. This kind of saw is easy to make; a little
harder to use well. (I'm at the "use" stage-- "use well" is somewhere down
the road.)

I'll probably see about buying an old one. But I've also been
brain-playing with some kind of mount that'd keep the thing to a roughly
uniform thickness-- say, having a guide mounted parallel to the blade,
so keep the depth of cut roughly uniform. Thing is, such a guard'd run
cross-wide to the motion of the saw.

And, given the size of the boards I'm thinking of, I'm wondering if
there's some way of running the blade horizontally-- letting the board
rest flat on a work surface, and have the blade run back and forth, like
a horizontally-mounted jigsaw. Interesting problem...

"TheNewGuy" wrote in
ups.com:

snip
I have probably 100-150 linear feet EACH of 4x4, 4x6, and 2x6 redwood
that I want to "refresh" for other (outdoor) projects. I did ALOT of
belt sanding w/ my 3x21 Bosch last Fall to refurbish the decking that
we left in-place (and then stained w/ some Cabot). But the stuff I
removed was "stained" by the previous owner w/ something that is more
"paint-like," meaning it had been flaking off. It was a major PITA to
sand, but yes it's doable. I just had hoped that my planer would make
MUCH quicker work of it all to give me some "like new" redwood to work
with.

Maybe I should buy a "cheap" set of blades for the planer to do this
work? Such a thing? I haven't investigated buying blades yet, just
have the HSS blades that came installed in the General International
30-115 (15").


OK, I made a couple of bad assumptions. My fault.

Many of us use 'lunchbox style' planers, which use disposable (non-
resharpenable) blades. These are seldom HSS. But they are consumables.
Mine run maybe $30 a set, with two edges per. For what you're
describing, I have used at least $45 worth of edges. Or more.

And you can put a new edge on _your_ planer blades with any number of
easy and/or economical methods, either yourself, or professionally.

Having removed the material yourself, you have a better idea where the
metals are/were. The detector will help.

It's the paint that's abrasive, as well as the embedded grit from
weather exposure. Those are going to be what gnaws at your blades.
BUT, in your situation, I'd do exactly as you propose, after ordering a
new set of planer blades from the local sharpening shop. Because I'd be
bringing in the used ones as soon as I got the deck rails surfaced.

You now have my blessing. (tongue firmly planted in left cheek.)
Unless you WANT to buy a drum sander, that is. Then you have an excuse.

Patriarch

In article , says...
I have done 8" on my table saw. It leaves a web that you can easily cut
with a handsaw.

And using a thin kerf blade makes a nice guide for the handsaw, keeping
it on the path of least resistance.

--
BNSF = Build Now, Seep Forever

On Wed, 18 May 2005 12:32:32 -0400, Brian Siano
wrote:

I have a lot of chestnut trim in my house, and the baseboards are 8-12"
high. And it's all coated with thick white paint.

While I could take the trim down and strip the paint, I'm wondering if
it'd be possible to do the following:

a) remove the trim,
b) saw off maybe 1/16" to remove the painted face, and maybe
c) resaw it thinner, and thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I can
use.

I'm assuming the trim is 3/4" thick. I'm pretty sure it is.

Now, this seems as though it'd take a really big bandsaw, which I don't
have, and I'm not sure I can rent. Are there other methods by which one
could resaw an 8"-12" board even thinner, that are cheaper, or even
manual?

IMHO, unless the baseboards are at least 1" thick, don't resaw them..
who wants a 1/4 or 3/8 baseboard? it would look like woodgrained plastic glue
on...

If you have a lot of base boards and are determined to resaw them, I'd suggest
looking into a local lumber yard of cabinet shop that does a lot of resawing,
and having them do it..
cheaper than buying a BS, unless you really need one, and if they screw it up,
well... they did, not YOU... YMMV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Brian Siano wrote in
:
snip
I'll probably see about buying an old one. But I've also been
brain-playing with some kind of mount that'd keep the thing to a
roughly uniform thickness-- say, having a guide mounted parallel to
the blade, so keep the depth of cut roughly uniform. Thing is, such a
guard'd run cross-wide to the motion of the saw.

And, given the size of the boards I'm thinking of, I'm wondering if
there's some way of running the blade horizontally-- letting the board
rest flat on a work surface, and have the blade run back and forth,
like a horizontally-mounted jigsaw. Interesting problem...


Seems such a lot of work to reinvent the "bandsaw with featherboards and a
fence".

Patriarch

Patriarch wrote:

You now have my blessing [...] to buy a drum sander [...]

[quote intentionally transmogrified]

Wow, this is better than a note from the doctor!

"But Honey, Partriarch SAID ...."

:^)

"TheNewGuy" wrote in
oups.com:


Patriarch wrote:

You now have my blessing [...] to buy a drum sander [...]

[quote intentionally transmogrified]

Wow, this is better than a note from the doctor!

"But Honey, Partriarch SAID ...."

:^)



But the doctor can help cure the aftermath, whereas I cannot. Did the
include file not make it? The one with the disclaimers?

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...502b80266e232?
hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! I will not pay your Mastercard bill! ;-)

Patriarch

On Thu, 19 May 2005 11:26:13 -0400, Brian Siano wrote:

I'll probably see about buying an old one. But I've also been
brain-playing with some kind of mount that'd keep the thing to a roughly
uniform thickness-- say, having a guide mounted parallel to the blade,
so keep the depth of cut roughly uniform. Thing is, such a guard'd run
cross-wide to the motion of the saw.

Oh, such ideas. You'd want two adjustable fences, one either side of the
blade. Coat 'em with slippery tape. Run 'em in slots through the
crossarms. Don't need much travel 'cuz we're only ever going to cut narrow
stuff.

Buy one? You can cobble up a frame resaw from just about anything.

Bandsaw with featherboards and a fence is nice if you're a normite.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

mac davis wrote:
On Wed, 18 May 2005 12:32:32 -0400, Brian Siano
wrote:

While I could take the trim down and strip the paint, I'm wondering if
it'd be possible to do the following:

a) remove the trim,
b) saw off maybe 1/16" to remove the painted face, and maybe
c) resaw it thinner, and thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I can
use.

IMHO, unless the baseboards are at least 1" thick, don't resaw them..
who wants a 1/4 or 3/8 baseboard? it would look like woodgrained plastic glue
on...

Oh, I wouldn't re-install it as 1/4" or 3/8" thick baseboard. I'd glue
it onto a cheaper substrate, like oak or pine or even MDF, and use _that_.

If you have a lot of base boards and are determined to resaw them, I'd suggest
looking into a local lumber yard of cabinet shop that does a lot of resawing,
and having them do it..
cheaper than buying a BS, unless you really need one, and if they screw it up,
well... they did, not YOU... YMMV

Happily, there is a lumber yard within walking distance. If they have a
bandsaw of the right capacity (that is, it can cut at least 8-12" high),
I'll ask if I can bring a piece for some test cuts.

I'm still thinking of ways of developing a framesaw jig for the project,
however.