My jointer is broke and I am waiting for the parts to fix it but I need
to joint a few boards and I need to see about finding a simple
alternate solution to doing this. I remember someone telling me about
tilting the blade and then running every other board with the good face
down and when I flip it over it will match? If this is not a good way
is their a simple jig I can use my router with to accomplish this? I am
not what would be the best method but I am looking for advice.
Thanks,
Mike Francis

Yes, see link:
http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html

On 16 May 2005 04:31:36 -0700, "
wrote:

My jointer is broke and I am waiting for the parts to fix it but I need
to joint a few boards

Good blade in the table saw, set it at 90° and do the neatest rips you
can. Then hand plane. If the sawn surface is already good, then it's a
moment's work to finish it by hand and you're removing so little as
shavings that you don't have the opportunity to introduce wobble
(sideways or hog's back). Any plane can do this, even a short-bodied
smoother, because you're relying on the tablesaw's accuracy.

If you want to "spring" the joint (which I doubt you did on your jointer
anyway) then go read "Planecraft" or one of the old '50s craft
handbooks.

--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

Good blade in the table saw, set it at 90° and do the neatest rips you
can. Then hand plane.

Good advice here. In fact, if you have a good sharp blade and use care you
can get a pretty good joinable surface with the table saw alone.

Good blade in the table saw, set it at 90° and do the neatest rips you
can. Then hand plane.

Good advice here. In fact, if you have a good sharp blade and use care
you can get a pretty good joinable surface with the table saw alone.

I've seen it done. The guy took a lot of care to adjust his table saw.
After-market fence. Loosen/tighten trunion to line the blade parallel to
the fence. Link belt. Quality blade. Loosen/tighten bolts in stand, to
let the saw settle into its resting position (no floor is perfectly flat!).
He was peeling smooth oak veneer off of two inch thick boards.

I never had as much success as that, and I don't have a jointer (or the
after-market fence). So far my jointing has been done with a hand plane. I
book match my boards to get supplementary angles. For small stuff, anyway,
this has worked well for me.

- Owen -

"RonB" wrote in message
news:6fbie.41507$gc6.3615@okepread04...

Good blade in the table saw, set it at 90° and do the neatest rips you
can. Then hand plane.

Good advice here. In fact, if you have a good sharp blade and use care
you
can get a pretty good joinable surface with the table saw alone.



Especially if you think jointing rather than ripping. Without the load on
the outside of the blade, even a mediocre one can produce a smooth and
shining surface.

Wasn't up to rigging out the surface planer yesterday to surface some cherry
3x3, so it was jointer (mine's working) for square and to the tablesaw.
With at most a shaving coming off the left side, they were 220 off the saw
with a combo blade.

Not a burn, either!

A good old No. 7 Jointer plane will do wonders for edge glue ups. I
typically
use my powered jointer to get everything square and then run the No. 7 over
the edges
with a very fine cut for a pass or two. You almost hate to glue up and
hide the nice edge!
Cheers,
cc

wrote in message
oups.com...
My jointer is broke and I am waiting for the parts to fix it but I need
to joint a few boards and I need to see about finding a simple
alternate solution to doing this. I remember someone telling me about
tilting the blade and then running every other board with the good face
down and when I flip it over it will match? If this is not a good way
is their a simple jig I can use my router with to accomplish this? I am
not what would be the best method but I am looking for advice.
Thanks,
Mike Francis

If I use a hand plane what is the best way to make sure it stays flat
on the edge so it wont cause a bevel?
Mike

" wrote:

If I use a hand plane what is the best way to make sure it stays flat
on the edge so it wont cause a bevel?
Mike

Practice.

On 17 May 2005 13:05:07 -0700, "
wrote:

If I use a hand plane what is the best way to make sure it stays flat
on the edge so it wont cause a bevel?

Just hold it flat. If you already have a reasonable sawcut on there,
the plane is taking off so little that you're not going to disturb the
angle measurably.

You only need to worry about "jointer fences" or using your thumb as one
if you're planing a square edge on from scratch.

wrote in message
ups.com...
If I use a hand plane what is the best way to make sure it stays flat
on the edge so it wont cause a bevel?
Mike

View the tape "Rough to Ready" by Rob Cosman.
:-)

Router and straightedge or, as I do, handplane.
wrote in message
oups.com...
My jointer is broke and I am waiting for the parts to fix it but I need
to joint a few boards and I need to see about finding a simple
alternate solution to doing this. I remember someone telling me about
tilting the blade and then running every other board with the good face
down and when I flip it over it will match? If this is not a good way
is their a simple jig I can use my router with to accomplish this? I am
not what would be the best method but I am looking for advice.
Thanks,
Mike Francis