Every now and then someone asks about panel saws and I'm reminded that my
life might be some easier if I had one. Last time around I started sketching
and accumulating files in a directory.

Well, Larry L'Hote might be proud of me. My next door neighbor buys 2" x
0.125" aluminum [aluminium] tubing in 24' lengths, cuts 17' for wing spars,
and scraps the remaining 7'.

I started thinking that the tubing might make passable guide rails for a
panel saw if I could puzzle out how to build a decent linear bearing out of
a 2x4 and was encouraged by the donation of two of the cut-offs by their
chief (actually, their only) test pilot/mechanic/floor sweeper (and lunch
buddy.)

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the entire
design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well for software,
so why not for woodworking? Anyhow, I've loaded what I have so far (and some
has already changed) onto a web page at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

Anyone/everyone who has any interest is welcome to look it over and send
suggestions and criticisms as you feel apropriate.

I'm hoping to end up with two things: first (of course) a decent panel saw;
and second, a howto page that will make it easier for someone else to build
one of these things.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

In article ,
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

That explains why we haven't seen much of you as of late.

Looks intriguing. That has to work.

Staying tuned for next episode,

Rob

"Morris Dovey" wrote:

Every now and then someone asks about panel saws and I'm reminded that
my life might be some easier if I had one. Last time around I started
sketching and accumulating files in a directory.

Well, Larry L'Hote might be proud of me. My next door neighbor buys 2"
x 0.125" aluminum [aluminium] tubing in 24' lengths, cuts 17' for wing
spars, and scraps the remaining 7'.

I started thinking that the tubing might make passable guide rails for
a panel saw if I could puzzle out how to build a decent linear bearing
out of a 2x4 and was encouraged by the donation of two of the cut-offs
by their chief (actually, their only) test pilot/mechanic/floor
sweeper (and lunch buddy.)

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the
entire design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well
for software, so why not for woodworking? Anyhow, I've loaded what I
have so far (and some has already changed) onto a web page at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

Anyone/everyone who has any interest is welcome to look it over and
send suggestions and criticisms as you feel apropriate.

I'm hoping to end up with two things: first (of course) a decent panel
saw; and second, a howto page that will make it easier for someone
else to build one of these things.

Looks good! But, I think it might be more stable using two pieces for
each stretcher. Could you use the top and bottom frames as the back
stretchers? If you do that, you can bolt through the wood on both sides
of each tube as your plan shows. If you just bolt through wood and tube
(single stretcher), you might get some racking due to the nut not making
full contact with the curved surface on the inside of the tube.

LD


--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

Hi Morris,

I mean no disrespect because I often thought that a panel
saw would be answer to all my sheet good woes.

Then, a few months ago I made a saw board for my
PC Sawboss w/ply blade (after reading posts here).

I am in heaven! Actually I made 2 -
one about 52 inches and one 96.
Total time invested - about an
hour or two.

I am rippin' sheet goods left and right, up and down!
For almost no cost, little effort and *very accurate*
and with practically no additional space needed.

And for those who are still doing this (as I did for 15+ years)
forget about pushing 4x8 sheets through a TS - get
a small trim saw and save your back with a couple
of sawboards.

I don't see why every woodworker doesn't
have one or two.

Lou



In article , Morris Dovey
wrote:

http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:KQTce.3296$7K.68@trnddc06...
Looks good! But, I think it might be more stable using two pieces for
each stretcher. Could you use the top and bottom frames as the back
stretchers? If you do that, you can bolt through the wood on both sides
of each tube as your plan shows. If you just bolt through wood and tube
(single stretcher), you might get some racking due to the nut not making
full contact with the curved surface on the inside of the tube.

If the top and bottom frames are used as stretchers, then the tubes will
interfere with the workpiece. AFAICT, there'll need to be stand offs of some
kind to position the whole guide assembly far enough foreward to allow
passage of panels.

The original plan had doubled stretchers; but a single stretcher looks like
it would do the job of holding the tubing squarely. I really hadn't given
enough thought to how the nut would contact the tube.

You're absolutely right about the less than ideal contact. I've "dry fitted"
the parts and /think/ that the guide will be sufficiently rack resistant so
song as the tubes are held firmly in their spreader recesses.

Do you think that if I cut a 7/8"R half round x 3-1/2" long piece to fit
inside the tube it would provide an adequate flat surface for the nut (and a
washer) to bear against?

If I've underestimated resistance to racking, the design can always revert
to the double stretcher approach.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

Morris Dovey wrote:
Every now and then someone asks about panel saws and I'm reminded that my
life might be some easier if I had one. Last time around I started sketching
and accumulating files in a directory.

Well, Larry L'Hote might be proud of me. My next door neighbor buys 2" x
0.125" aluminum [aluminium] tubing in 24' lengths, cuts 17' for wing spars,
and scraps the remaining 7'.

I started thinking that the tubing might make passable guide rails for a
panel saw if I could puzzle out how to build a decent linear bearing out of
a 2x4 and was encouraged by the donation of two of the cut-offs by their
chief (actually, their only) test pilot/mechanic/floor sweeper (and lunch
buddy.)

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the entire
design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well for software,
so why not for woodworking? Anyhow, I've loaded what I have so far (and some
has already changed) onto a web page at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

Anyone/everyone who has any interest is welcome to look it over and send
suggestions and criticisms as you feel apropriate.

Looks very nice, Morris. I presume that the saw carriage will be
capable of rotating and locking 90 degrees so you can "cross cut" across
the 4' dimension as well as ripping along the length.

If so, I'd consider adding a cam or clamp somewhere along the line to
hold the panel tight for the cross cut operation as well as a simple
counter-weight to pull the saw back up to the top position when used for
cross cutting.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

That explains why we haven't seen much of you as of late.

Looks intriguing. That has to work.

Staying tuned for next episode,

Rob...

Seems that interest in solar heating panels follows the price of crude oil
fairly closely - and it's been climbing steadily until the end of this past
week. The panel saw is really a bit of R&R that may make my work life a bit
easier when it's finished.

I've been skimming the wreck, but most of my free time has been spent on
design of some CNC equipment that I'm hoping will allow me to hold the line
on heating panel cost.

Please feel welcome to join in on the panel saw project. I've never even
used one of these things before, so I value every bit of input.

--
Morris

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 15:16:07 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
wrote:

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the entire
design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well for software,
so why not for woodworking?

Sorry, I can't possibly participate in a peer review until your
development process documents have been approved.

(Only 13 weeks until retirement, thank god...)

Lee

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 21:29:05 -0700, Lee DeRaud
wrote:

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 15:16:07 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
wrote:

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the entire
design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well for software,
so why not for woodworking?

Sorry, I can't possibly participate in a peer review until your
development process documents have been approved.


So you are working in a place that is being "processed" to death to, eh?

Number of docs for a critical gate review: 220+ --- absolutely out of
control. ... and that's just to determine whether they are applicable or
should be tailored or tailored out.


(Only 13 weeks until retirement, thank god...)

Lee



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 22:12:12 -0700, Mark & Juanita
wrote:

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 21:29:05 -0700, Lee DeRaud
wrote:

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 15:16:07 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
wrote:

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the entire
design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well for software,
so why not for woodworking?

Sorry, I can't possibly participate in a peer review until your
development process documents have been approved.

So you are working in a place that is being "processed" to death to, eh?

Ya think? Scorecard for current project:
Number of people working on Process: 4
Number of people actually developing softwa 1
Getting my ass out of he priceless.

Lee

"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
...

Looks very nice, Morris. I presume that the saw carriage will be
capable of rotating and locking 90 degrees so you can "cross cut" across
the 4' dimension as well as ripping along the length.

Yuppers on the rotatable insert. Also plan to install a t-track for a
flippable stop and a PSA tape rule. Should also be able to install other
tools (like a router, roto-zip, etc) on additional inserts.

If so, I'd consider adding a cam or clamp somewhere along the line to
hold the panel tight for the cross cut operation as well as a simple
counter-weight to pull the saw back up to the top position when used for
cross cutting.

The counterweight is on the agenda. My thinking here hadn't gone beyond
spring clamp. A built-in cam-type clamp had never even ocurred to me.
Thanks!

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

I mean no disrespect because I often thought that a panel
saw would be answer to all my sheet good woes.

Then, a few months ago I made a saw board for my
PC Sawboss w/ply blade (after reading posts here).

Care to clarify this? What is a saw board?


I am in heaven! Actually I made 2 -
one about 52 inches and one 96.
Total time invested - about an
hour or two.

I am rippin' sheet goods left and right, up and down!
For almost no cost, little effort and *very accurate*
and with practically no additional space needed.

And for those who are still doing this (as I did for 15+ years)
forget about pushing 4x8 sheets through a TS - get
a small trim saw and save your back with a couple
of sawboards.

I don't see why every woodworker doesn't
have one or two.

Lou



In article , Morris Dovey
wrote:

http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

"Morris Dovey" wrote:


"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:KQTce.3296$7K.68@trnddc06...
Looks good! But, I think it might be more stable using two pieces for
each stretcher. Could you use the top and bottom frames as the back
stretchers? If you do that, you can bolt through the wood on both
sides of each tube as your plan shows. If you just bolt through wood
and tube (single stretcher), you might get some racking due to the
nut not making full contact with the curved surface on the inside of
the tube.

If the top and bottom frames are used as stretchers, then the tubes
will interfere with the workpiece.

Right, hadn't thought of that.

AFAICT, there'll need to be stand
offs of some kind to position the whole guide assembly far enough
foreward to allow passage of panels.

Your stretchers should be enough, but you'll still need stand offs for
the back of the frame. IIRC, your saw fixture rides between the top and
bottom halves of the longitudinal bearing so that shouldn't be an issue.


The original plan had doubled stretchers; but a single stretcher looks
like it would do the job of holding the tubing squarely. I really
hadn't given enough thought to how the nut would contact the tube.

You're absolutely right about the less than ideal contact. I've "dry
fitted" the parts and /think/ that the guide will be sufficiently rack
resistant so song as the tubes are held firmly in their spreader
recesses.

Do you think that if I cut a 7/8"R half round x 3-1/2" long piece to
fit inside the tube it would provide an adequate flat surface for the
nut (and a washer) to bear against?

Yeah, that would do it! You're going to put two bolts in, right?



If I've underestimated resistance to racking, the design can always
revert to the double stretcher approach.

Yep. It would be an easy add-on.

LD

"Lee DeRaud" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 15:16:07 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
wrote:

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the entire
design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well for
software,
so why not for woodworking?

Sorry, I can't possibly participate in a peer review until your
development process documents have been approved.

(Only 13 weeks until retirement, thank god...)

Lee...

Consider that they've been approved. Join in on the fun!

(Hang in there. You're on the home stretch.)

--
Morris

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:AZ_ce.6612$xy.3331@trnddc08...
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

AFAICT, there'll need to be stand
offs of some kind to position the whole guide assembly far enough
foreward to allow passage of panels.

Your stretchers should be enough, but you'll still need stand offs for
the back of the frame. IIRC, your saw fixture rides between the top and
bottom halves of the longitudinal bearing so that shouldn't be an issue.

I'm planning to have the bottom of the saw platform/insert flush with the
bottom of the linear bearing. If the bearing isn't in the way, then the saw
platform won't be in the way - and because of the possibility of putting a
router on the platform, it'd probably be a good idea to keep the platform as
close to the workpiece as possible.

Do you think that if I cut a 7/8"R half round x 3-1/2" long piece to
fit inside the tube it would provide an adequate flat surface for the
nut (and a washer) to bear against?

Yeah, that would do it! You're going to put two bolts in, right?

Ok. I'd thought about using a single 3/8"-16 bolt; but a pair of 1/4"-20
bolts should work as well. The real alignment and anti-racking properties
are probably going to be more a result of the fit of stretcher and tube than
the bolts here. I think the only need is to secure the guide assembly to the
frame and to ensure that the tubing is firmly seated in the stretcher coves.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw

"Morris Dovey" wrote:


"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:AZ_ce.6612$xy.3331@trnddc08...
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

snip


Do you think that if I cut a 7/8"R half round x 3-1/2" long piece
to fit inside the tube it would provide an adequate flat surface
for the nut (and a washer) to bear against?

Yeah, that would do it! You're going to put two bolts in, right?

Ok. I'd thought about using a single 3/8"-16 bolt; but a pair of
1/4"-20 bolts should work as well. The real alignment and anti-racking
properties are probably going to be more a result of the fit of
stretcher and tube than the bolts here. I think the only need is to
secure the guide assembly to the frame and to ensure that the tubing
is firmly seated in the stretcher coves.

I tend to over-build. )

"Markndawoods" wrote:


I mean no disrespect because I often thought that a panel
saw would be answer to all my sheet good woes.

Then, a few months ago I made a saw board for my
PC Sawboss w/ply blade (after reading posts here).

Care to clarify this? What is a saw board?


As an example your saw cuts 1.5" on the skinny side and 4 " on the
wide side. I assume that you get a straight 8' long board 4 inches
wide. You glue and screw a piece of plywood to the bottom of the board
about 8.5" wide. You rip down that straight edge and now you have a
saw board that is about 8" wide and perfectly referenced off the
straight edge. You place a 4x8 sheet of plywood on the sawhorses. You
mark the width of the cut. You clamp the sawguide with the now perfect
plywood edge on the marks. Clamp and cut. No math regured to figure
offset for blade which may cut at 3.8" or 4.25". The sawboard is
generally good for only one saw though unless you have more than one
saw that cuts exactly the saw width. Works for routers also.

Jim B.

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 23:31:47 -0700, the inscrutable "Markndawoods"
spake:


I mean no disrespect because I often thought that a panel
saw would be answer to all my sheet good woes.

Then, a few months ago I made a saw board for my
PC Sawboss w/ply blade (after reading posts here).

Care to clarify this? What is a saw board?

This, maybe?

http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm


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On Sun, 1 May 2005 02:42:21 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
wrote:


"Lee DeRaud" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 15:16:07 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
wrote:

I've made a start of sorts - and had an inspiration to subject the entire
design and build process to peer review. It works pretty well for
software,
so why not for woodworking?

Sorry, I can't possibly participate in a peer review until your
development process documents have been approved.

(Only 13 weeks until retirement, thank god...)

Consider that they've been approved. Join in on the fun!

Just so I don't get stuck collecting the metrics.

(Hang in there. You're on the home stretch.)

Annoying my cow-orkers with the countdown, I assure you. :-)

Lee

Morris Dovey wrote:
"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
...
[snip]
The counterweight is on the agenda. My thinking here hadn't gone beyond
spring clamp. A built-in cam-type clamp had never even ocurred to me.
Thanks!

With regard to the cam-type clamp, it just occurred to me that you may
be using varying thicknesses of ply or MDF. Mounting the cam clamp on
some sort of springy material, maybe a longer piece of thin steel or
thicker aluminum (to provide some self-adjustment as the material is
clamped) would be the way to go. Afterall, the only thing you're trying
to do is prevent the lateral movement of the stock on those "effortless"
bearings g

Lobby Dosser wrote:

I tend to over-build. )

Be very, very careful. That sort of thing could get you arrested and
prosecuted on the wreck. Overbuilding's a crime in Canada, don't you know?

g

Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Lobby Dosser wrote:

I tend to over-build. )

Be very, very careful. That sort of thing could get you arrested and
prosecuted on the wreck. Overbuilding's a crime in Canada, don't you
know?

g




I think I'm OK. I also tend to over-plan. )

Lee DeRaud wrote in
:

snip

Ya think? Scorecard for current project:
Number of people working on Process: 4
Number of people actually developing softwa 1
Getting my ass out of he priceless.


Number of weeks before the whole process is shipped to Bangalo 22

Number of weeks before it was determined that the software produced in
Bangalore was bug free, written to spec, and accomplished exactly the wrong
objective: 4

Patriarch,
thoroughly enjoying the sawdust therapy...

"loutent" wrote in message
...
SNIP

Then, a few months ago I made a saw board for my
PC Sawboss w/ply blade (after reading posts here).

I am in heaven! Actually I made 2 -
one about 52 inches and one 96.
Total time invested - about an
hour or two.

Lou,

Are you talking about the piece of panel with straight edge attached, where
you trim the panel with the first saw cut? If so, I've been thinking of
making a short and long one, like you have. Where I'm hung up is getting a
96" straight edge. I know people use the edge of a sheet of plywood. Maybe
I'm being too anal here, but I figure I'm making a jig that I'll use over
and over again and I want it to be accurate enough to give good cuts. I
have doubts about getting a good, chrisp, straight plywood edge. Also,
whatever I do get, I want to stay straight.

Again, perhaps I'm being too anal. I'm only judging the plywood edges by
what I've seen at the BORG. Perhaps a cabinet grade plywood is OK. Anyway,
finding a good straight edge here is important.

What do others think or use?

Bill Leonhardt

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...

"loutent" wrote in message
...
SNIP

Then, a few months ago I made a saw board for my
PC Sawboss w/ply blade (after reading posts here).

I am in heaven! Actually I made 2 -
one about 52 inches and one 96.
Total time invested - about an
hour or two.

Lou,

Are you talking about the piece of panel with straight edge attached,
where you trim the panel with the first saw cut? If so, I've been
thinking of making a short and long one, like you have. Where I'm hung up
is getting a 96" straight edge. I know people use the edge of a sheet of
plywood. Maybe I'm being too anal here, but I figure I'm making a jig
that I'll use over and over again and I want it to be accurate enough to
give good cuts. I have doubts about getting a good, chrisp, straight
plywood edge. Also, whatever I do get, I want to stay straight.

Again, perhaps I'm being too anal. I'm only judging the plywood edges by
what I've seen at the BORG. Perhaps a cabinet grade plywood is OK.
Anyway, finding a good straight edge here is important.

What do others think or use?

Bill Leonhardt

I use a big piece of aluminum angle. Two inch or bigger. Fairly heavy
gauge. Anything smaller can bend easily.

And it seems to me that at least one of the manufacturers of the circular
saw cutting guides use aluminum angle for their straightedge as well.

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...

Again, perhaps I'm being too anal. I'm only judging the plywood edges by
what I've seen at the BORG. Perhaps a cabinet grade plywood is OK.
Anyway,
finding a good straight edge here is important.

What do others think or use?

I've been using the Lee Valley two-piece guide in combination with a plywood
spacer that lets me offset it exactly from where I want the cut (see about
1/3 of the way down at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/outfeed.html) and,
sometimes, a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle (with the same spacer).
Both work well, but require that I muscle the sheet goods around more than
is comfortable - and spend more time with each cut than I'd prefer.

The saw board/fence approach is a good one and does save time. If it met my
needs, I think I'd be tempted to pop rivet a piece of 1/8" tempered
hardboard to the aluminum angle...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Hi Bill,

I first considered using a piece of 1/8 inch aluminum
angle for the guide - especially since I already had a
96 inch piece of it. However, after making my smaller
sawboard out of 1/4 oak ply and an oak strip, it was so
easy to work with (light weight & easy to handle) that
I went ahead and made the bigger one the same way.

I did not fuss a lot with them. For the bottom (where the
saw sits) I ripped about a 10 inch wide piece of the oak ply.
For the "guide" part, I ripped a 1/2 inch piece of solid oak
from a 1x3. Next, I measured in about 2 inches from what would
become the blade side and glued/tacked then screwed the strip on
to the ply from below. I had the factory edge of the oak facing the
blade. When it all dried overnight, I ran my saw against the oak
strip and voila - a sawboard!

I do no find that it deflects left or right since I have about 8 inches
of the plywood left after cutting. I wanted to leave plenty of material
for clamping.

HTH.

Lou

In article , Bill Leonhardt
wrote:

"loutent" wrote in message
...
SNIP

Then, a few months ago I made a saw board for my
PC Sawboss w/ply blade (after reading posts here).

I am in heaven! Actually I made 2 -
one about 52 inches and one 96.
Total time invested - about an
hour or two.

Lou,

Are you talking about the piece of panel with straight edge attached, where
you trim the panel with the first saw cut? If so, I've been thinking of
making a short and long one, like you have. Where I'm hung up is getting a
96" straight edge. I know people use the edge of a sheet of plywood. Maybe
I'm being too anal here, but I figure I'm making a jig that I'll use over
and over again and I want it to be accurate enough to give good cuts. I
have doubts about getting a good, chrisp, straight plywood edge. Also,
whatever I do get, I want to stay straight.

Again, perhaps I'm being too anal. I'm only judging the plywood edges by
what I've seen at the BORG. Perhaps a cabinet grade plywood is OK. Anyway,
finding a good straight edge here is important.

What do others think or use?

Bill Leonhardt

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

SNIP
The saw board/fence approach is a good one and does save time. If it met
my
needs, I think I'd be tempted to pop rivet a piece of 1/8" tempered
hardboard to the aluminum angle...

--

Morris,

I would expect you'd need some kind of countersunk rivits here so they
wouldn't mar the surface of the sheet material to which the saw board is
clamped.

Bill

"loutent" wrote in message
...
Hi Bill,

I first considered using a piece of 1/8 inch aluminum
angle for the guide - especially since I already had a
96 inch piece of it. However, after making my smaller
sawboard out of 1/4 oak ply and an oak strip, it was so
easy to work with (light weight & easy to handle) that
I went ahead and made the bigger one the same way.

I did not fuss a lot with them. For the bottom (where the
saw sits) I ripped about a 10 inch wide piece of the oak ply.
For the "guide" part, I ripped a 1/2 inch piece of solid oak
from a 1x3. Next, I measured in about 2 inches from what would
become the blade side and glued/tacked then screwed the strip on
to the ply from below. I had the factory edge of the oak facing the
blade. When it all dried overnight, I ran my saw against the oak
strip and voila - a sawboard!

I do no find that it deflects left or right since I have about 8 inches
of the plywood left after cutting. I wanted to leave plenty of material
for clamping.

HTH.

Lou

Lou,

If I understand you correctly, you used a piece of oak 1/2"x2-1/2"x96" for
the guide. How did you mount ot on the base ply to assure it would be
straight? Did you use the plywood factory edge as a guide or some other
means?

Thanks,

Bill

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

SNIP
The saw board/fence approach is a good one and does save time. If it met
my
needs, I think I'd be tempted to pop rivet a piece of 1/8" tempered
hardboard to the aluminum angle...

I would expect you'd need some kind of countersunk rivits here so they
wouldn't mar the surface of the sheet material to which the saw board is
clamped.

Bill ...

Whenever the head would get in the way, I make a small counterbore using an
ordinary drill bit so that the rivet head doesn't protrude. It's important
not to drill so deeply that the tool head can't reach the rivet. In my shop
I use stainless (rather than aluminum) rivets with a pneumatic tool and it
works like a charm! I would expect equally good results with aluminum rivets
and a hand tool.

--
Morris

Hi again Bill,

My 1/4 oak ply base started at about 10 x 96. The oak strip that
I ripped from a 1x3 x96 was about 1/2 x 3/4 x 96
after I ripped it. I took that strip and, with the factory
edge toward the blade side, measured in about 2 inches.
I used a square to get it consistent up & down the 96
inch length before I glued/tacked/screwed. My saw's
offset is about 1 3/8 inches which is why I measured
in 2 inches.

To be honest, I initially intended to use these sawboards
to simply give me panels that were reasonable size that
I could finish on the TS. I was pleasantly surprised to
find that the cuts were very accurate & square.

Lou

In article , Bill Leonhardt
wrote:

"loutent" wrote in message
...
Hi Bill,

I first considered using a piece of 1/8 inch aluminum
angle for the guide - especially since I already had a
96 inch piece of it. However, after making my smaller
sawboard out of 1/4 oak ply and an oak strip, it was so
easy to work with (light weight & easy to handle) that
I went ahead and made the bigger one the same way.

I did not fuss a lot with them. For the bottom (where the
saw sits) I ripped about a 10 inch wide piece of the oak ply.
For the "guide" part, I ripped a 1/2 inch piece of solid oak
from a 1x3. Next, I measured in about 2 inches from what would
become the blade side and glued/tacked then screwed the strip on
to the ply from below. I had the factory edge of the oak facing the
blade. When it all dried overnight, I ran my saw against the oak
strip and voila - a sawboard!

I do no find that it deflects left or right since I have about 8 inches
of the plywood left after cutting. I wanted to leave plenty of material
for clamping.

HTH.

Lou

Lou,

If I understand you correctly, you used a piece of oak 1/2"x2-1/2"x96" for
the guide. How did you mount ot on the base ply to assure it would be
straight? Did you use the plywood factory edge as a guide or some other
means?

Thanks,

Bill

"loutent" wrote in message
...
Hi again Bill,

My 1/4 oak ply base started at about 10 x 96. The oak strip that
I ripped from a 1x3 x96 was about 1/2 x 3/4 x 96
after I ripped it. I took that strip and, with the factory
edge toward the blade side, measured in about 2 inches.
I used a square to get it consistent up & down the 96
inch length before I glued/tacked/screwed. My saw's
offset is about 1 3/8 inches which is why I measured
in 2 inches.

To be honest, I initially intended to use these sawboards
to simply give me panels that were reasonable size that
I could finish on the TS. I was pleasantly surprised to
find that the cuts were very accurate & square.

Lou


Lou,

Thanks for the follow-up reply. I guess the bottom line here is that you
used the factory edge of your base material to index the oak guide strip and
the results you get from that are most satisfactory. Sounds reasonable to
me. Building a couple of these sounds like a good idea.

Thanks again,

Bill

Good luck Bill...I thimk you will like the result - you
seem like the type of person who want's to know all
details first. I resemble that.

I predict that you will be very pleased with your
sawboard(s).

Lou

In article , Bill Leonhardt
wrote:

"loutent" wrote in message
...
Hi again Bill,

My 1/4 oak ply base started at about 10 x 96. The oak strip that
I ripped from a 1x3 x96 was about 1/2 x 3/4 x 96
after I ripped it. I took that strip and, with the factory
edge toward the blade side, measured in about 2 inches.
I used a square to get it consistent up & down the 96
inch length before I glued/tacked/screwed. My saw's
offset is about 1 3/8 inches which is why I measured
in 2 inches.

To be honest, I initially intended to use these sawboards
to simply give me panels that were reasonable size that
I could finish on the TS. I was pleasantly surprised to
find that the cuts were very accurate & square.

Lou


Lou,

Thanks for the follow-up reply. I guess the bottom line here is that you
used the factory edge of your base material to index the oak guide strip and
the results you get from that are most satisfactory. Sounds reasonable to
me. Building a couple of these sounds like a good idea.

Thanks again,

Bill

On Wed, 4 May 2005 11:54:22 -0400, "Bill Leonhardt"
wrote:

I am not sure you understand. You make the oak (which has to be
straight; you couod use aluminium here) as near as possible to right.
But that's only really for appearnce. The trick is that you let it
set, then cut the ply using the oak as a fence. This ensures that you
have a ply edge that is dead parallel to the oak, as straight as the
oak, and exactly the right distance away so that you will then cut by
using ghe oak as the fence. The ply edge is laid exacltly on the cut
line and the blade _just_ touches it as it did when you made the
board.. That's what makes it so easy and quick to use.

Thanks for the follow-up reply. I guess the bottom line here is that you
used the factory edge of your base material to index the oak guide strip and
the results you get from that are most satisfactory. Sounds reasonable to
me. Building a couple of these sounds like a good idea.

Thanks again,

Bill