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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
news:BH9ce.944 Is this snip I constructed a header for a 16' overhead door opening on the garage I built. The sidewall containing the open was load-bearing for a truss roof. I laminated a ¼" ~17'x9" steel flitch plate between the 2x10's and bolted the whole thing together with carriage bolts as he proposes (staggered). The garage is now 20 years old and there is absolutely NO sag in that header - none. It'll take a fire to make that puppy sag. Overbuilt? I dunno. That's what the plans called for in the header. IIRC correctly the ¼" steel flitch plate w/bolts may have been an alternative to either ½" or 3/4" ply nailed. BX1's best bet is to check with Building/Zoning or Community Development in his town and see what they say. To overbuild is never a crimeg I'm working on a garage design. For a span greater than 9 feet, our local code requires two 2x12s sandwiched around a 1/8" steel flitch plate. I'm curious where one would obtain a 17-18' long steel plate 11.25" wide. todd |
#2
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I'm working on a garage design. For a span greater than 9 feet, our local
code requires two 2x12s sandwiched around a 1/8" steel flitch plate. I'm curious where one would obtain a 17-18' long steel plate 11.25" wide. todd From a steel fabricator? You sure they wouldn't accept a glue-lam or LVL beam? -J |
#3
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on 4/28/2005 2:45 PM J said the following:
I'm working on a garage design. For a span greater than 9 feet, our local code requires two 2x12s sandwiched around a 1/8" steel flitch plate. I'm curious where one would obtain a 17-18' long steel plate 11.25" wide. todd From a steel fabricator? Exactly, and it's my bad on my earlier post, it IS a 2x12 with the flitch plate and it's still not going anywhere. Ordered up the flitch plate from local steel dealer that supplies the I-beams, etc. and gave them the dimensions. Brought it in, dropped it off the flatbed. Had a small table top drill press and set up a little staging area about six or eight inches off the ground and drilled the holes to spec. I must have been crazy to do it but I hoisted all three components up into position by myself using a fence comealong, chains and temporary supports. I was quite proud of having done it by myself. SWMBO thought I was crazy. Now, I would tend to agreeg |
#4
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That's old tech...glue lams have long ago replaced
that method. Look up I-joists, glue-lams, or LVL. The old 2 2x12 method will work, but there are much better methods for headers. http://www.i-joist.org/home.asp http://www.ufpi.com/product/lvl/ http://www.curtislumber.ca/products/gluelams.htm Todd Fatheree wrote: I'm working on a garage design. For a span greater than 9 feet, our local code requires two 2x12s sandwiched around a 1/8" steel flitch plate. I'm curious where one would obtain a 17-18' long steel plate 11.25" wide. |
#5
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Todd Fatheree wrote:
I'm working on a garage design. For a span greater than 9 feet, our local code requires two 2x12s sandwiched around a 1/8" steel flitch plate. I'm curious where one would obtain a 17-18' long steel plate 11.25" wide. With today's engineered beams, the above sounds like very old technology to me. Think I'd do a little more research. Lew |
#6
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"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
k.net... Todd Fatheree wrote: I'm working on a garage design. For a span greater than 9 feet, our local code requires two 2x12s sandwiched around a 1/8" steel flitch plate. I'm curious where one would obtain a 17-18' long steel plate 11.25" wide. With today's engineered beams, the above sounds like very old technology to me. Think I'd do a little more research. Lew Well, I broke down and gave the building department a call. Though not called out in the spec sheet, they will accept an LVL or gluelam header. todd |
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