I want to make a new fence for my Jet JTAS-10 with Micro-adjust
Precision Fence. I have the HTC clips.

I'm not very good at free-hand routing. Also - I will probably make
other fences, so I am thinking about making a template.

Any suggestions?

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Let me elaborate some of my ideas.

I've been inspired by Jim Topin's jigs in his table saw book. He
drills holes in the metal body of his fence, and attaches his
"Universal Rip Fence" to that. And when he wants a different fence,
he attaches a second fence to his rip fence, which is attached to the
metal body.

It seems to me that a single fence would be preferable to two fences.
So I'm trying to use the quick mount/dismount feature to hold the
fence in place.

A friend says I should just rough cut the holes, eyeball the location
of the clips, and slot the holes on the clips to make them adjustable.

The problem is aligning the 4 clips so the fence face fits onto the
metal fence body. Getting all 4 perfectly aligned seems like it would
be difficult. I don't want to have to struggle with the fences every
time I swap one for another.

So this is what my ideas are.

I first tried to place a piece of paper over the existing fence and
did a rubbing to locate the holes. I tried to transfer that onto a
thin metal template, but was a PITA using sheet metal cutters, files,
a nibbler, etc. There has to be a better way, I thought.

My next thought was to take a panel pilot bit, and grind off the
point, so the bottom of the bit is smooth, and using the original
fence with the clips removed, make a duplicate of the holes using the
original as a guide. I'd make some rough holes for a started cut, and
place a piece of 1/4 plywood over the fence, and make an exact
duplicate of the holes.

But then if I use this as a guide, the router bits with the bearing on
top are too deep. And if I use a bushing, the hole cut won't be the
exact size as my pattern.

I'm thinking of using a keyhole router bit with a bushing guide to
make a copy of that pattern that is slightly larger, and then using
this second guide to cut the holes. I think I found a combination that
may work, but I have to test this.

Another idea is to take the existing plastic fence face, with the
clips removed, and drill through the fence where the clip holes are,
and use these to mark the pilot holes for the clips. I still have to
cut out the holes for the clips, but that should solve the alignment
issue. Then roughtcut the openings.

Thoughts?

Am I making this way too complicated?

As I said - my freehand skils with a router are limited.
I'd rather have a solution that lets me make several custom fences.






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Here is a MUCH simpler way to go for a bandsaw fence.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg



Bruce Barnett wrote:
I want to make a new fence for my Jet JTAS-10 with Micro-adjust
Precision Fence. I have the HTC clips.

I'm not very good at free-hand routing. Also - I will probably make
other fences, so I am thinking about making a template.

Any suggestions?

Bruce Barnett wrote:
I want to make a new fence for my Jet JTAS-10 with Micro-adjust
Precision Fence. I have the HTC clips.

I'm not very good at free-hand routing. Also - I will probably make
other fences, so I am thinking about making a template.

Any suggestions?


Route a dado down the center of the entire length of the fence to the
proper recessed depth for the clips. Mark the proper location in the
recess for the clips and drill out the clearance for the stud heads.
Once the recesses are drilled mount the clips in the routed recess.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 15:19:01 GMT, the inscrutable Pat Barber
spake:

Here is a MUCH simpler way to go for a bandsaw fence.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg

I _like_ it! Kudos, Pat.

P.S: Where's the microfeed?


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Pat Barber writes:

Here is a MUCH simpler way to go for a bandsaw fence.

Thanks Pat, but I was looking for a table saw fence face for my JTAS table saw.

http://tinyurl.com/ayhy3 -
picture of similar fence.
http://tinyurl.com/a55cw -
picture of clips that hold the fence face to the fence.


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"no(SPAM)vasys" writes:

Any suggestions?

Route a dado down the center of the entire length of the fence to the
proper recessed depth for the clips. Mark the proper location in the
recess for the clips and drill out the clearance for the stud
heads.

Excellent idea! I knew I was overlooking something. Thanks, novasys!


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Larry Kraus writes:

They say great minds think alike...

.... and fools seldom differ. grin Thanks, Larry.
Thanks for the note about the stability and using one or two fences.
I was wondering about that, and appreciate the info!

Here's my current plan:

I liked novasys's idea of dadoing a single groove for the
length of the fence. This keeps all 4 clips perfectly aligned in one
direction. Any error can be fixed by trimming/padding one side, if
necessary.

The second problem is to align the clips in the other
direction. I plan to remove the clips from one fence and drill through
the screw locations, and make a template from this. That way I
minimize damage to my fence face.

Based on your advice, I'll make my first one that only needs
one fence removed. I can have two pieces of plywood on the vertical
surface, and have it stairstep over the fence on the right side. This
should give it extra stability.

I post pics when done...

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