When I cut at 90, the cut is straight, tested against a square.

However, when I cut at 45, the cut is not square, but slightly
diagonal.

The end result is that when the mitered ends of the moulding are put
together, they are tight at the top of the miter, but the bottom of the
joint has a gap -- that is to say, the gap gets bigger as you go
downward.

Note that I made the 45 cuts with the moulding upside-down. (Does that
even matter?) If I make them right-side-up, the gap goes in the other
direction - tight on bottom, gappy as you go up.

What adjustments should I make to the CMS to make 45 cut straight so
the joints are tight?

Thanks to all. I am a super-newcomer to woodworking, and I need help. I
just wasted $22 of moulding.

I should add that I stood the molding up vertically for the cuts.

wrote:
When I cut at 90, the cut is straight, tested against a square.

However, when I cut at 45, the cut is not square, but slightly
diagonal.

[snip]
Sigh. I bought a Craftsman CMS some years ago, noticed the problem, and
ended up selling it. Noticed it again on a friends new Ridgid. Sorry
to see it on the Delta also. It works OK for rough carpentry.
Otherwise you have to move the blade to the angle you need (45d in this
case) and then realign the blade back to 90d to the table.
gloom,
jo4hn

On 21 Apr 2005 18:44:20 -0700, wrote:

When I cut at 90, the cut is straight, tested against a square.

However, when I cut at 45, the cut is not square, but slightly
diagonal.

The end result is that when the mitered ends of the moulding are put
together, they are tight at the top of the miter, but the bottom of the
joint has a gap -- that is to say, the gap gets bigger as you go
downward.

Note that I made the 45 cuts with the moulding upside-down. (Does that
even matter?) If I make them right-side-up, the gap goes in the other
direction - tight on bottom, gappy as you go up.

What adjustments should I make to the CMS to make 45 cut straight so
the joints are tight?

Thanks to all. I am a super-newcomer to woodworking, and I need help. I
just wasted $22 of moulding.

There should be a couple of screws in the back of the fence that hold
the sucker on. Loosen them up, and apply pressure to the fence to
slide it in the direction it needs to go, tighten the bolts back down,
then test it on a piece of scrap. Keep at it until you've got it
right. This can be a very tedious process, but it's well worth it
once you've got things set up right. I've got a cheap Black and
Decker that my folks gave me a couple of years ago as a gift, and if I
could get that thing set right, you can certainly get the Delta to cut
a perfect miter!
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

jonathan wrote:
Ba r r y wrote in
:

Cheaper saws also usually suffer from excessive "runout" (Shaft
curvature or bearing error) or side to side movement of the blade,
both which can lower the cutting precision.

Is it possible to find a CMS, or Sliding CMS that is accurate for
small
pieces, like jewelry box parts? It would be so handy if it were.

I have a Dewalt 10" CMS and it cuts perfect miters at 45 as well as 90.
It has done that since I took it out of the box. I'm not talking
about framing cuts, but trim for furniture. I just thought it was
supposed to do that.

jonathan wrote:
Ba r r y wrote in
:


Cheaper saws also usually suffer from excessive "runout" (Shaft
curvature or bearing error) or side to side movement of the blade,
both which can lower the cutting precision.


Is it possible to find a CMS, or Sliding CMS that is accurate for small
pieces, like jewelry box parts? It would be so handy if it were.


I've found small tools, like inexpensive bench top models and
"modelmakers" tools sold by MicroMark, to often be LESS accurate than
the real deal. Good tools fitted with the right blade and zero
clearance inserts and fences work great on fine work. I'd be more
concerned with my hands being very close to the blade, and the cutoff
getting launched into space.

For small parts, you're probably better off with a hand saw and miter
box, Lion guillotine trimmer, or shaping the perfect fit with sandpaper.
Slightly larger parts can be fitted with a good, sharp, low angle block
plane and shooting board(s), as well as all of the methods that work
with smaller stuff. Stationary disc sanders are another option.

Barry

Is it possible to find a CMS, or Sliding CMS that is accurate for small
pieces, like jewelry box parts? It would be so handy if it were.

You want a DeWalt Radial Arm Saw if you want accurate 45's etc. Forget the
chops saws.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
..

A decent CMS can cut knife-edge joints but you'll probably need to adjust
the saw for starters. Also I think you'll find that typical "thin kerf"
blades will wander a little - get a full-kerf, heavy-bodied, negative hook,
fine-finish blade.

Most importantly, check your saw's table carefully as you tighten the pivot
clamp. Many CMS's actually lift the front of the table as the clamp
tightens, tilting the table back towards the fence. You won't be making any
furniture-grade miter joints with that saw unless you find a way to tighten
the table without lifting it. I suspect that the majority of these saws are
used for work at the precision standards of framing and the joinery issues
aren't discovered.

Tim Ellestad

"jonathan" wrote in message
news:1116392048.c24b2e13c422b46710665c1c1c3a1a0c@t eranews...
Ba r r y wrote in
:

Cheaper saws also usually suffer from excessive "runout" (Shaft
curvature or bearing error) or side to side movement of the blade,
both which can lower the cutting precision.

Is it possible to find a CMS, or Sliding CMS that is accurate for small
pieces, like jewelry box parts? It would be so handy if it were.

jonathan wrote in
news:1116392048.c24b2e13c422b46710665c1c1c3a1a0c@t eranews:

Ba r r y wrote in
:

Cheaper saws also usually suffer from excessive "runout" (Shaft
curvature or bearing error) or side to side movement of the blade,
both which can lower the cutting precision.

Is it possible to find a CMS, or Sliding CMS that is accurate for small
pieces, like jewelry box parts? It would be so handy if it were.

Yes. For example: (watch the wrap)

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M.../merchant.mvc?
Session_ID=a44da4b9cd1cc38f87ec056c1bb0fa6d&Screen =CTGY&Store_Code=toolshop
&Category_Code=TS