Greetings,
I'm starting a nightstand of hard maple. The boards selected
themselves; I just listened to them. The one that will be the skirt has a
really cool figure with two symmetrical blobs. The skirt just has to be
made with sequential pieces of this board.

So. I hadn't planned to make a drawer originally, but this board
whispered to me that I ought to cut a drawer front from the middle of the
skirt. OK, but I don't have a curved saw, veneer or azebiki. Will a dozuki
do it? I can practise this cut on some pine I have laying around. I want
to use a saw thin enough to allow some planing and scraping with a nickel
left over.

Plan B is to make the drawer full-width, with two easy rips. But that
lacks elegance, to say nothing of the fussy joinery to attach the
resulting narrow pieces of skirt. Or, horror of horrors, I might have to
buy a new tool!

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

In article ,
Australopithecus scobis wrote:

I want to use a saw thin enough to allow some planing and scraping with a nickel
left over.

Then you need a saw with a kerf 1/3 to 1/2 (leaning to 1/3) the
thickness of a nickle.

--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 01:59:31 -0500, Australopithecus scobis
wrote:

I don't have a curved saw, veneer or azebiki. Will a dozuki do it?

Get an azebiki - very useful saw. Mine lives in the "building work"
toolbag, because it's handy for house repair stuff. I suppose I ought
to have a "good" one too.

A dozuki would probably work here, if you have one with a bellied
tip, although it's slower than you realise. Japanese saws have finer
pitch near the handle, so the tip is probably just a single coarse
tooth that's usable. I've done this for thing grooving, but it's
amazingly slow. OTOH, you can find dozuki with thinners blade than
azebiki

I'd expect this not to work as simply as you expect. Unless the cuts
are also perfectly straight and smooth, you'll need clean-up space and
that too will increase the kerf. I'd do it by accepting that it won't
work and instead taking the apron into halves or quarters, centred on
the drawer. I can then close the drawer surround up as needed, so that
the drawer is a perfect fit, no matter how much I had to remove.

I'd rip it in half on the bandsaw, stopping at the drawer ends. Then
rip the drawer separate with the azebiki. Finally crosscut down at
each end with a fretsaw to free the three pieces. Maybe a thin dozuki
for the second pair of crosscuts, once I'd removed the first half.

if you don't lose too much in the kerf, and you joint it back together
carefully, then the joints in the front won't be obvious.

Australopithecus scobis says...

Greetings,
I'm starting a nightstand of hard maple. The boards selected
themselves; I just listened to them. The one that will be the skirt has a
really cool figure with two symmetrical blobs. The skirt just has to be
made with sequential pieces of this board.

So. I hadn't planned to make a drawer originally, but this board
whispered to me that I ought to cut a drawer front from the middle of the
skirt. OK, but I don't have a curved saw, veneer or azebiki. Will a dozuki
do it? I can practise this cut on some pine I have laying around. I want
to use a saw thin enough to allow some planing and scraping with a nickel
left over.

Plan B is to make the drawer full-width, with two easy rips. But that
lacks elegance, to say nothing of the fussy joinery to attach the
resulting narrow pieces of skirt. Or, horror of horrors, I might have to
buy a new tool!

A scroll saw sounds like what you want. Your initial drill hole can be
very small and you can use some sort of a fence to insure straight cuts.
Still, I think any way you choose to do it will be challenging. My vote
would be to cut everything out with a bandsaw and reglue pieces back
together as needed.

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 14:49:53 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:

I'd rip it in half on the bandsaw, stopping at the drawer ends. Then
rip the drawer separate with the azebiki. Finally crosscut down at
each end with a fretsaw to free the three pieces. Maybe a thin dozuki
for the second pair of crosscuts, once I'd removed the first half.

if you don't lose too much in the kerf, and you joint it back together
carefully, then the joints in the front won't be obvious.

Thanks for the warning. Yeah, that midline rip should be hideable. No
bandsaur though; ryoba instead, or maybe framesaw. Put a
tenon on each half of the apron, instead of one big one that crosses the
glue line, right?

I've been looking for excuses to get a fretsaw and a couple of azebikis.
Woohoo!

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

Australopithecus scobis wrote in
news
So. I hadn't planned to make a drawer originally, but this board
whispered to me that I ought to cut a drawer front from the middle of
the skirt. OK, but I don't have a curved saw, veneer or azebiki. Will
a dozuki do it? I can practise this cut on some pine I have laying
around. I want to use a saw thin enough to allow some planing and
scraping with a nickel left over.


Let me get this straight: Your dozuki won't pass the nickle test?

;-)

Patriarch

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 21:10:04 -0500, Patriarch wrote:

Let me get this straight: Your dozuki won't pass the nickle test?

;-)

No, no, the dozuki is as thin as a casus belli. ;~)

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 21:10:04 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

Let me get this straight: Your dozuki won't pass the nickle test?

It's hard to find the right pulley to fit on the handle, but once you
do adding a link belt is easy and you'll be amazed at the difference.
Make sure the pulley has less than .0005 runout though for best
results.


-Leuf

The customary method is to rip the skirt into three pieces, crosscut
the drawer front from the center rip, then glue the top, center
spacer/end piecs, and bottom back together.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 15:30:49 +0000, Lawrence Wasserman wrote:

The customary method is to rip the skirt into three pieces, crosscut
....

thanks
--