"Keith Young" wrote: (clip) It would be ideal if the motor was not too
powerfull so as to stop or slow down rather than flick the object from my
hand.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you use a "wimpy" motor for that reason, you will be constantly slowing
it down as you work. I would find that annoying--better to learn to avoid
catches. Some people install a net behind the buffing wheel, so the bowl is
recovered easily and safely.

Keith Young wrote:
I am expecting the Bealle finishing system any day now. I have the motor
mounted model comming. What would you experienced woodturners reccommend for
horsepower and I believe that the RPM should be 1725 or less. It would be
ideal if the motor was not too powerfull so as to stop or slow down rather
than flick the object from my hand.

Mine is a 1/3 HP and runs just fine. I can't say I have ever managed to
slow it down. My feeling is that if you get a snatch the piece will have
been ripped out of your hands long before the motor slows down.

RPM is 1725 which is the max. bealle recommend. I wouldn't go any slower
since the wheel relies on centrifugal force to keep itself stiff.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
Wedding Favors ~ Artisan Crafted Gifts ~ One-of-a-Kind Woodturning

I've used the Beall system for two years on a 3750 rpm grinder motor and
I've lost a number of really nice pieces as I lost my grip on them. Over
the weekend I modified an old 1/3 hp furnace motor running at 1750 rpm and
while it stalls out if I put too much pressure on the piece it seems to do a
better job and I can hold the work a lot better. Obviously Beall has a
reason for their recommend speed.


--
Bill Kemptville, ON.
www.northgrenville.on.ca


"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
Hi
I am expecting the Bealle finishing system any day now. I have the motor
mounted model comming. What would you experienced woodturners reccommend
for
horsepower and I believe that the RPM should be 1725 or less. It would be
ideal if the motor was not too powerfull so as to stop or slow down rather
than flick the object from my hand.

Thanks
Keith

"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
I received a local reply to my looking for a used motor. A washer motor
are
they usually 1700 RPM ..

"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
I received a local reply to my looking for a used motor. A washer motor
are
they usually 1700 RPM ..



Hit the wrong button.

Be sure and get the wiring diagram. A lot are dual speed now. Seems 1050
and 1725 are nominal.

A lot are end mounted instead of frame mounted as well, so you may have to
do a bit of creative mounting with plumbers' tape.

Could be lucky and get an ancient Maytag like the one that's been stropping
my carving tools the last twenty years, too.

Hi Keith

Keith I have used a polishing/ finishing setup for a few years, no it's
not a bealle system but rather a home made similar system, I have
several 4",6",8", buffing wheels and 2&3" buffing balls, I have never
yet lost a turning or other piece due to it ripped out of my hands,
Knock on wood (G).
I made the setup initially to polish a ships compass and housing I had
totally rebuild, and needed to polish the brass and copper and iron and
wood.
I use my power hand drills and a furnace motor, 1725 rpm, I use the
leveling screws that are used on washer, dryer, fridges etc., (they have
a rather large and thin head, most have also the starting end without
thread), to hold the buffing wheels, the reason for the 1725 rpm motor
is for the stiffness of the buffing wheels, if you use a 3450 rpm motor
the wheels get to hard due to the centrifugal force, and easily score or
groove the work piece.
Learned a long time ago by using a heavy industrial flex shaft with
either grinding stone or steel wire brush or the rubber like polishing
wheels that you do NOT approach an edge with the turning direction
toward an edge, ALWAYS have the wheel turning direction AWAY from the
edge OR IT WILL GRAB.
In order to quickly and easily change the wheels on the motor, I turned
a coupling (basically a pipe with set screws) to fit the the motor shaft
to an old drill motor shaft with chuck, this makes for a free end to
polish the inside of a bowl, there is nothing in the way to approach and
hold the bowl or hollow turning over the buffing wheels or balls.
You want to use a dedicated wheel for the differed polishes and waxes
you use, this is especially needed if you polish metal and wood, don't
mix them.
How strong is my motor ? I'm not sure, I think it's either a 1/4 or 1/3
hp it works well and it was the right price, you should not push to hard
on the work piece, take your time and have plenty of light so you are
able to examine the finished surface.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Keith Young wrote:
Hi
I am expecting the Bealle finishing system any day now. I have the motor
mounted model comming. What would you experienced woodturners reccommend for
horsepower and I believe that the RPM should be 1725 or less. It would be
ideal if the motor was not too powerfull so as to stop or slow down rather
than flick the object from my hand.

Thanks
Keith