Working indoors with heat? Either will do. You'll take things to the
window to judge color, anyway.

If you're in poorly or unheated, you'll want cold start fixtures and bulbs.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis

Flourescent lighting creates a stroboscopic effect with rotating
machinery which could appear to be standing still ,take care and happy
shavings

Aubrey

In article .com,
"shape" wrote:

Flourescent lighting creates a stroboscopic effect with rotating
machinery which could appear to be standing still ,take care and happy
shavings

Aubrey

The new fluorescent fixtures with electronic ballasts don't seem to
have as much stroboscopic effect as the magnetic ballast fixtures do.

--
Dan Kozar



remove NOSPAM

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis



You'll find the tubes you have will give a slight blue color but not really
a big deal. In some of my shop light fixtures I have a cold white tube
paired with a Warm White which makes it more like daylight. My wife also
uses this combination in her plant stand with good results and is a lot
cheaper than the Grow lights. I haven't had any problems with strobe effects
but some people are more sensitive than others to this effect.
Billh

On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 21:22:14 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

"Phisherman" wrote in message


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

Second that. I bought two, relatively inexpensive machinist's lamps
(magnetic base, flexible arm, metal reflector shade) and put one on the
headstock and one on the ways when turning a bowl. They produce plenty of
light and are positionable.

Max

incadescents are horribly less efficicient than flourescents - for 160 watts
(two 8 ft tubes) you get a lot more light than a box full of 60 watt
incadescents and a lot less heat too - you probably want both, the
incadescent for spot lighting and directional lighting of your work when you
need it, and the fluorescents for general shop lighting. I know I use
both...

"Maxprop" wrote in message
t...

"Phisherman" wrote in message


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

Second that. I bought two, relatively inexpensive machinist's lamps
(magnetic base, flexible arm, metal reflector shade) and put one on the
headstock and one on the ways when turning a bowl. They produce plenty of
light and are positionable.

Max

"william_b_noble" wrote in message

incadescents are horribly less efficicient than flourescents - for 160
watts
(two 8 ft tubes) you get a lot more light than a box full of 60 watt
incadescents and a lot less heat too - you probably want both, the
incadescent for spot lighting and directional lighting of your work when
you
need it, and the fluorescents for general shop lighting. I know I use
both...

Guess I should have mentioned that I have several fluorescent fixtures
overhead in the shop, one immediately above the lathe. The incandescents
simply brighten and add definition to the workpiece when turning.

Max

"Maxprop" wrote in message
t...

"Phisherman" wrote in message


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

Second that. I bought two, relatively inexpensive machinist's lamps
(magnetic base, flexible arm, metal reflector shade) and put one on the
headstock and one on the ways when turning a bowl. They produce plenty of
light and are positionable.

I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:08:29 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.

ok.. admission to tackiness time:
I was turning a pencil holder for my wife last night and felt like I
was drilling a mine shaft in the dark, once I got down a few inches.
(shoulda drilled it first, I guess)

I got my handy-dandy HF fluorescent trouble light out and hung it on
an adjustable height roller stand behind me...

It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

Hi Mac, yes we all do those things, nothing wrong with it if it works
for you, and like George says keep it off the vibrating machine , be it
lathe, grinder, sander, saw or whatever else, the super hot filaments
don't take kindly to the shaking G that is going on, I've a couple of
quarts spot lights on either side of my lathe, but I block the light
very often with body or arm or just the depth of the turning will not
let the light get there where I need it, for that I have one of those
pivoting desk lamp with the elbow/wrist kind of hinge points, and made a
couple of bracket/hole dohickys (so that I can place the light in the
best possible positioning), on the shelf and wall next to my lathe, even
then I would like a better way at times, I have been looking for a
inexpensive Light Emitting Diode (LED) that gives enough light and which
I would be able to attach and remove from my cutting tool easily, have
not made up my mind how or what, but I hope to find a better lighting
solution to the problem of not able to see what I want.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


mac davis wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:08:29 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.


ok.. admission to tackiness time:
I was turning a pencil holder for my wife last night and felt like I
was drilling a mine shaft in the dark, once I got down a few inches.
(shoulda drilled it first, I guess)

I got my handy-dandy HF fluorescent trouble light out and hung it on
an adjustable height roller stand behind me...

It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:08:29 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.

ok.. admission to tackiness time:
I was turning a pencil holder for my wife last night and felt like I
was drilling a mine shaft in the dark, once I got down a few inches.
(shoulda drilled it first, I guess)

I got my handy-dandy HF fluorescent trouble light out and hung it on
an adjustable height roller stand behind me...

It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

Mac I noticed your Shopsmith note concerning blocks and was interested
as to what you exactly meant. Do you elevated the unit because the
height is not what you prefer or are you adding weight to keep it from
vibrating?
As due to economic consideration I also turn with a shopsmith. Two eight
pound bags of Quickcrete placed across the horizontal bars seem to
settle it down to and except-able degree.

--
To reply drop "spam" from the email address

"woodturning" The ability to turn useful material to sawdust

Floyd "Who"

Hi Dennis


Dennis daylight and warm white give a redder light and I have used them
with plants and also combined with cool white, but for the use by my
lathe I like the cool whites best, I also use a incandescence quarts
light bulb to give me less cycle flicker, which you can have sometimes
when the 60 hertz coincides with the rotation speed of the wood, and
that can drive you crazy.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Denis Marier wrote:
I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis

Denis Marier wrote:
: I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
: I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
: home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
: purchased " Daylight or soft white.
: I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.


I use full-spectrum fluorescents, which are just a little
pricier than the cold white ones. Much nicer light to be in, and it's
much closer to daylight.

-- Andy Barss

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. This newsgroup is packed
with hand on experience and know how. The information is helpful to me.
Again thanks for sharing your experience.



"Andrew Barss" wrote in message
...
Denis Marier wrote:
: I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
: I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got
back
: home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
: purchased " Daylight or soft white.
: I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.


I use full-spectrum fluorescents, which are just a little
pricier than the cold white ones. Much nicer light to be in, and it's
much closer to daylight.

-- Andy Barss