Fluorescent Light, Need help
 

Working indoors with heat? Either will do. You'll take things to the
window to judge color, anyway.

If you're in poorly or unheated, you'll want cold start fixtures and bulbs.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis

Flourescent lighting creates a stroboscopic effect with rotating
machinery which could appear to be standing still ,take care and happy
shavings

Aubrey

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis



You'll find the tubes you have will give a slight blue color but not really
a big deal. In some of my shop light fixtures I have a cold white tube
paired with a Warm White which makes it more like daylight. My wife also
uses this combination in her plant stand with good results and is a lot
cheaper than the Grow lights. I haven't had any problems with strobe effects
but some people are more sensitive than others to this effect.
Billh

On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 21:22:14 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

In article .com,
"shape" wrote:

Flourescent lighting creates a stroboscopic effect with rotating
machinery which could appear to be standing still ,take care and happy
shavings

Aubrey

The new fluorescent fixtures with electronic ballasts don't seem to
have as much stroboscopic effect as the magnetic ballast fixtures do.

--
Dan Kozar



remove NOSPAM

"Phisherman" wrote in message


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

Second that. I bought two, relatively inexpensive machinist's lamps
(magnetic base, flexible arm, metal reflector shade) and put one on the
headstock and one on the ways when turning a bowl. They produce plenty of
light and are positionable.

Max

Hi Dennis


Dennis daylight and warm white give a redder light and I have used them
with plants and also combined with cool white, but for the use by my
lathe I like the cool whites best, I also use a incandescence quarts
light bulb to give me less cycle flicker, which you can have sometimes
when the 60 hertz coincides with the rotation speed of the wood, and
that can drive you crazy.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Denis Marier wrote:
I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
purchased " Daylight or soft white.
I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.

Denis

incadescents are horribly less efficicient than flourescents - for 160 watts
(two 8 ft tubes) you get a lot more light than a box full of 60 watt
incadescents and a lot less heat too - you probably want both, the
incadescent for spot lighting and directional lighting of your work when you
need it, and the fluorescents for general shop lighting. I know I use
both...

"Maxprop" wrote in message
t...

"Phisherman" wrote in message


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

Second that. I bought two, relatively inexpensive machinist's lamps
(magnetic base, flexible arm, metal reflector shade) and put one on the
headstock and one on the ways when turning a bowl. They produce plenty of
light and are positionable.

Max

"Maxprop" wrote in message
t...

"Phisherman" wrote in message


Incandescent is best for task lighting. I use a cheap drafting lamp
and built my own wooden base screwed into the wall. I can position
the lamp exactly where I need it. I did the same setup for my router
table, drill press, and chop saw. A fluorescent lamp is tiring to
the eyes and could produce annoying strobe patterns, although I use
fluorescent for general shop lighting.

Second that. I bought two, relatively inexpensive machinist's lamps
(magnetic base, flexible arm, metal reflector shade) and put one on the
headstock and one on the ways when turning a bowl. They produce plenty of
light and are positionable.

I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:08:29 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.

ok.. admission to tackiness time:
I was turning a pencil holder for my wife last night and felt like I
was drilling a mine shaft in the dark, once I got down a few inches.
(shoulda drilled it first, I guess)

I got my handy-dandy HF fluorescent trouble light out and hung it on
an adjustable height roller stand behind me...

It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

Hi Mac, yes we all do those things, nothing wrong with it if it works
for you, and like George says keep it off the vibrating machine , be it
lathe, grinder, sander, saw or whatever else, the super hot filaments
don't take kindly to the shaking G that is going on, I've a couple of
quarts spot lights on either side of my lathe, but I block the light
very often with body or arm or just the depth of the turning will not
let the light get there where I need it, for that I have one of those
pivoting desk lamp with the elbow/wrist kind of hinge points, and made a
couple of bracket/hole dohickys (so that I can place the light in the
best possible positioning), on the shelf and wall next to my lathe, even
then I would like a better way at times, I have been looking for a
inexpensive Light Emitting Diode (LED) that gives enough light and which
I would be able to attach and remove from my cutting tool easily, have
not made up my mind how or what, but I hope to find a better lighting
solution to the problem of not able to see what I want.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


mac davis wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:08:29 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.


ok.. admission to tackiness time:
I was turning a pencil holder for my wife last night and felt like I
was drilling a mine shaft in the dark, once I got down a few inches.
(shoulda drilled it first, I guess)

I got my handy-dandy HF fluorescent trouble light out and hung it on
an adjustable height roller stand behind me...

It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

...I have been looking for a
inexpensive Light Emitting Diode (LED) that gives enough light and which
I would be able to attach and remove from my cutting tool easily, have
not made up my mind how or what, but I hope to find a better lighting
solution to the problem of not able to see what I want.

Leo, if you come up with a working LED system, please share it with the
group. I'd really like to see something like that.

Harry

"william_b_noble" wrote in message

incadescents are horribly less efficicient than flourescents - for 160
watts
(two 8 ft tubes) you get a lot more light than a box full of 60 watt
incadescents and a lot less heat too - you probably want both, the
incadescent for spot lighting and directional lighting of your work when
you
need it, and the fluorescents for general shop lighting. I know I use
both...

Guess I should have mentioned that I have several fluorescent fixtures
overhead in the shop, one immediately above the lathe. The incandescents
simply brighten and add definition to the workpiece when turning.

Max

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:00:48 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:



Hi Mac, yes we all do those things, nothing wrong with it if it works
for you, and like George says keep it off the vibrating machine , be it
lathe, grinder, sander, saw or whatever else, the super hot filaments
don't take kindly to the shaking G that is going on, I've a couple of
quarts spot lights on either side of my lathe, but I block the light
very often with body or arm or just the depth of the turning will not
let the light get there where I need it, for that I have one of those
pivoting desk lamp with the elbow/wrist kind of hinge points, and made a
couple of bracket/hole dohickys (so that I can place the light in the
best possible positioning), on the shelf and wall next to my lathe, even
then I would like a better way at times, I have been looking for a
inexpensive Light Emitting Diode (LED) that gives enough light and which
I would be able to attach and remove from my cutting tool easily, have
not made up my mind how or what, but I hope to find a better lighting
solution to the problem of not able to see what I want.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


I was thinking about that same thing, Leo..
last night, I was getting stiff and sore because I had to sit in a
certain position and lean just right, or the shadow of the lathe
chisel got in the way..

Damn pencil holder.. about a 2" hole, 6 inches deep.. WTF do I have a
drill press for? DUH...

Anyway, I was trying to figure out how many LED's I'd need to duct
tape to the chisel handle to do the job, and if the vibration and
clunks would kill the LED's..

I have a LED flashlight that would work, but I'm not going to kill a
$30 flashlight for a damn pencil holder.. lol

I think I'll just modify the shopsmith by morphing it with my floor
jack and point the sucker at the light.. rofl




mac davis wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:08:29 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.


ok.. admission to tackiness time:
I was turning a pencil holder for my wife last night and felt like I
was drilling a mine shaft in the dark, once I got down a few inches.
(shoulda drilled it first, I guess)

I got my handy-dandy HF fluorescent trouble light out and hung it on
an adjustable height roller stand behind me...

It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

I have taped one of those flexible mechanics lights to the hollowing tool.
Didn't seem to bother the little bulb that much. Didn't improve my turning,
either.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Anyway, I was trying to figure out how many LED's I'd need to duct
tape to the chisel handle to do the job, and if the vibration and
clunks would kill the LED's..

I have a LED flashlight that would work, but I'm not going to kill a
$30 flashlight for a damn pencil holder.. lol

Harry,

I just ordered a flexible LED light with a 13" flex neck length from this
vendor:
http://www.quality-items-flashlights...b597fa3c2bc337

I found numerous websites that sell LED flex lights on the Internet, in all
prices and styles. This one looked right for my use. I intend to mount it to
my hollowing tool but it might work just as well mounted to my tool rest.

Kevin
http://www.turnedwood.com


In article ps.com, Harry B.
Pye says...

...I have been looking for a
inexpensive Light Emitting Diode (LED) that gives enough light and which
I would be able to attach and remove from my cutting tool easily, have
not made up my mind how or what, but I hope to find a better lighting
solution to the problem of not able to see what I want.

Leo, if you come up with a working LED system, please share it with the
group. I'd really like to see something like that.

Harry

Denis Marier wrote:
: I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
: I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got back
: home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
: purchased " Daylight or soft white.
: I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.


I use full-spectrum fluorescents, which are just a little
pricier than the cold white ones. Much nicer light to be in, and it's
much closer to daylight.

-- Andy Barss

On 12 Dec 2004 07:56:59 -0800, Kevin Neelley
wrote:

Kevin...
Let us know how it worked out...
Especially important this time of year, with less light from outside..

Harry,

I just ordered a flexible LED light with a 13" flex neck length from this
vendor:
http://www.quality-items-flashlights...b597fa3c2bc337

I found numerous websites that sell LED flex lights on the Internet, in all
prices and styles. This one looked right for my use. I intend to mount it to
my hollowing tool but it might work just as well mounted to my tool rest.

Kevin
http://www.turnedwood.com


In article ps.com, Harry B.
Pye says...

...I have been looking for a
inexpensive Light Emitting Diode (LED) that gives enough light and which
I would be able to attach and remove from my cutting tool easily, have
not made up my mind how or what, but I hope to find a better lighting
solution to the problem of not able to see what I want.

Leo, if you come up with a working LED system, please share it with the
group. I'd really like to see something like that.

Harry

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. This newsgroup is packed
with hand on experience and know how. The information is helpful to me.
Again thanks for sharing your experience.



"Andrew Barss" wrote in message
...
Denis Marier wrote:
: I just bought on sale a 48" shoplight.
: I did not exactly what type of fluorescent light tubes to get. I got
back
: home with Super Saver Cold White. Then I learned that I could have
: purchased " Daylight or soft white.
: I wonder what is the most popular with type used for woodturning.


I use full-spectrum fluorescents, which are just a little
pricier than the cold white ones. Much nicer light to be in, and it's
much closer to daylight.

-- Andy Barss

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:08:29 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

I found that mounting the lamps to the stand shortened their bulb life, so
my swing arm floods are now mounted off the stand and burning longer.

I like to blame the stroboscopic effect for the barked knuckles I get
sometimes when cutting interrupted-edge bowls.

ok.. admission to tackiness time:
I was turning a pencil holder for my wife last night and felt like I
was drilling a mine shaft in the dark, once I got down a few inches.
(shoulda drilled it first, I guess)

I got my handy-dandy HF fluorescent trouble light out and hung it on
an adjustable height roller stand behind me...

It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

Mac I noticed your Shopsmith note concerning blocks and was interested
as to what you exactly meant. Do you elevated the unit because the
height is not what you prefer or are you adding weight to keep it from
vibrating?
As due to economic consideration I also turn with a shopsmith. Two eight
pound bags of Quickcrete placed across the horizontal bars seem to
settle it down to and except-able degree.

--
To reply drop "spam" from the email address

"woodturning" The ability to turn useful material to sawdust

Floyd "Who"

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 09:08:34 -0500, "Floyd \"Who\""
wrote:

snip
It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

Mac I noticed your Shopsmith note concerning blocks and was interested
as to what you exactly meant. Do you elevated the unit because the
height is not what you prefer or are you adding weight to keep it from
vibrating?
As due to economic consideration I also turn with a shopsmith. Two eight
pound bags of Quickcrete placed across the horizontal bars seem to
settle it down to and except-able degree.

I was referring to the height, Floyd... though when turning something
a little off balance, every joint, adjuster or other metal part of the
SS tells you about it... maybe a few hundred pounds would help...

I just got a Jet mini for Christmas, and set it up on a table until I
build a stand... it's a bit too high, but what a difference from the
SS!
Instead of the bowl center being at waist level, it's a little above
elbow level... which is what I meant be wanting to put the SS up on
blocks... I was even thinking of taking the SS off it's stand and
bench mounting the sucker..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 09:08:34 -0500, "Floyd \"Who\""
wrote:

snip
It worked great, was very adjustable and CHEAP.. lol
(note to self: if ever doing serious turning on a shopsmith, put the
sucker up on blocks!)

Mac I noticed your Shopsmith note concerning blocks and was interested
as to what you exactly meant. Do you elevated the unit because the
height is not what you prefer or are you adding weight to keep it from
vibrating?
As due to economic consideration I also turn with a shopsmith. Two eight
pound bags of Quickcrete placed across the horizontal bars seem to
settle it down to and except-able degree.

I was referring to the height, Floyd... though when turning something
a little off balance, every joint, adjuster or other metal part of the
SS tells you about it... maybe a few hundred pounds would help...

I just got a Jet mini for Christmas, and set it up on a table until I
build a stand... it's a bit too high, but what a difference from the
SS!
Instead of the bowl center being at waist level, it's a little above
elbow level... which is what I meant be wanting to put the SS up on
blocks... I was even thinking of taking the SS off it's stand and
bench mounting the sucker..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Thanks Mac that's what I thought. Congrat's on the new lathe maybe next
year I can join the world of real lathes. As I turn a lot of segmented
bowls I'll need something bigger than a mini. Been checking ebay for a
used big lathe like a Delta or Powermatic. Got out bid on a nice General
but I'll just keep looking. I seen a post from you that you had bought a
chuck for your SS how did that work out for you??

--
To reply drop "spam" from the email address

"woodturning" The ability to turn useful material to sawdust

Floyd "Who"