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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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removal of headstock on a 1933 craftsman lathe
My neighbor just gave me a 1933 12" lathe craftsman which had been
sitting idle for 20 years. The bowl turning accessory is attached and i can not figure out how it is removed. I need to get it off so i can remove the morse taper head stock so as to change the belt. I am not even sure which way to turn the the bowl accessory. Any help would be appreciated. thanks steve |
#2
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Wild guess you're speaking about a faceplate. If anything is threaded to
the spindle, it takes a standard thread over the bed, left-hand thread outboard. Your faceplate may take more than a strap wrench to loosen, but you should certainly begin with some sort of penetrating oil. "steve" wrote in message m... My neighbor just gave me a 1933 12" lathe craftsman which had been sitting idle for 20 years. The bowl turning accessory is attached and i can not figure out how it is removed. I need to get it off so i can remove the morse taper head stock so as to change the belt. I am not even sure which way to turn the the bowl accessory. Any help would be appreciated. thanks steve |
#3
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Steve, I agree with George, except that his guess wasn't wild. I doubt
that a '33 'Sit Up & Rear Back' lathe would have sported a jawed chuck so most probably the accessory is a faceplate (multi-screw chuck). Of course, like me, down thru the years it's had lots of ? upgrades & add-ons. If there is no set screw then the spindle is threaded and the faceplate was screwed on. If it's inboard remove by turning CCW as you face the headstock. Early hobby lathe outboard spindles were threaded left-hand so reverse if your faceplate is outboard. Soak thoroughly with WD40, rap the hub smartly several times and leave over nite. soak again, & rap. Use a strap or pipe wrench or bolt a striking bar to the faceplate for leverage. Loosen with 1 or 2 hard hammer blows, not several soft taps. If AEF, heat the face plate (torch), cool the spindle (dry ice) and try, try again. If your faceplate is inboard, you should be able to move the spindle forward enough to change belts, but be sure to loosen the pulleys and remove the outboard fasteners. Don't forget the advantages of link belts, especially if your lathe has sleeve bearings.. Steve, From your query, I think you know all this. I answered with this long reply mostly to help true newbies. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
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