I came into a couple of tree sections (fir, I believe) which are somewhat
large, about 24" diameter, and 30" long. However, they're EXTREMELY sappy.
Any tips on what to do with them to prepare them for turning (or if they're
even worth it) would be appreciated.

steve

just turn them - don't worry about the sap - when you are done, see how they
dry - fir can be pretty particularly in larger sizes and you can turn it
pretty thin if you want - or leave about 1/2 inch thick so the heft matches
the size -
"Steve Wolfe" wrote in message
...

I came into a couple of tree sections (fir, I believe) which are
somewhat
large, about 24" diameter, and 30" long. However, they're EXTREMELY
sappy.
Any tips on what to do with them to prepare them for turning (or if
they're
even worth it) would be appreciated.

steve

just turn them - don't worry about the sap - when you are done, see how
they
dry - fir can be pretty particularly in larger sizes and you can turn it
pretty thin if you want - or leave about 1/2 inch thick so the heft
matches
the size -

Oh, I'll worry about the sap alright - just handling the sections gets my
hands covered. I'm worried about it flipping in my face while I turn! : )

steve

Not sure from the anonymous address what kind of fir it might be. Douglas,
for instance, isn't.

Bill is probably talking one of the left, Steve, one of the right coast
varieties. I've done Abies balsamea, and it turns sticky, wet, and
fragrant. You really want to make sure that the throw zone is well covered
against sap, and you'll want some mineral spirits to dip your tools in
periodically to keep them clean. Sharpen well, and watch your angles. Like
most conifers, it'll crush easily, especially when wet.

I also remember my first brush with spruce, where the tree had been down for
a month, and all the water had migrated downward. I had the bad judgment to
turn a piece that was half wet, and was never in any sort of balance until
the interior was out.

"Steve Wolfe" wrote in message
...

I came into a couple of tree sections (fir, I believe) which are
somewhat
large, about 24" diameter, and 30" long. However, they're EXTREMELY
sappy.
Any tips on what to do with them to prepare them for turning (or if
they're
even worth it) would be appreciated.

steve

"Steve Wolfe" wrote in message
...
SNIP ........
Oh, I'll worry about the sap alright - just handling the sections gets my
hands covered. I'm worried about it flipping in my face while I turn!
: )

steve
=====================
Steve,
Just use a good face mask and clean it with mineral spirits periodically.
Polycarbonate shouldn't be bothered by this.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

Steve Wolfe wrote:

Oh, I'll worry about the sap alright - just handling the sections gets my
hands covered. I'm worried about it flipping in my face while I turn! : )

steve

If you don't crystalize the sap it'll ruin any oil based finishes you put on it
later. Well, maybe not danish oil, but any varnish type finishes anyway. I had
a pine burl that gave me fits that way. Never tried it, but I got some advice
on how to handle it (ran out of the pine before I could). Basically you need to
kiln dry it.

The flash point of wood is circa 1250 Degrees F. Most kiln drying for wood is
between 110 F and about 145 F. I'd get the moisture content down, then "cook"
it to crystalize the sap.

To get the wood dried out well (if it's not already, try a portable electric
heater in a partially enclosed space like an EMPTY!! closet or a metal cabinet.
All you need is about 90 F for a few weeks. It should be down to around 8% to
10% moisture content.

The rest is quoting from an email I got from a knowledgeble guy who will remain
nameless. Actually, a bunch of the above was too.

I disavow any responsibility if you try this and it goes awry. There. Now the
pesky lawyers should be happy.

The discussion was pertaining to a pine burl I had.

===========
Don't do this unless you are sure the MC is 12% or less!

Home recipe (without wife present):
1. Place burl in oven at VERY close to 165 degrees F for 24- 28 hours.
Interior of piece must get to 160 - 165. Don't go above
185, or you may get staining.
Place slab in throwaway cookie sheet to catch any ooze.
Use an oven thermometer to get the temp right; good oven
thermostat display/knobs are accurate +/- 20 degrees.
2. When done turn oven off and let it coast for six hours.
Leave the hot slab in the closed oven until it's at
least below body temp.
3. If you got cracking or other problems, the MC was too
high to start with.
4. Clean oven immediately with Dow oven cleaner if any ooze
go past the cookie tray. The burning ooze can flavor cooking
later on, which you may want or not. This step prevents
divorce proceedings.
I'm also assuming:
1. you've sliced the burls into slabs
2. you've air dried the stickered slabs in a heated (80 degrees
min) space for at least two weeks per inch of slab thickness.
3. you used a moisture meter to get the slab to 12% MC
4. slabs are not more than about 4-6" thick. Thicker means
longer at 165 to get to 160 internally. Thermal conductivity
in wood is low.
This is what commercial lumber companies all are supposed to do.
You can still buy commercial D select sappy pine - means they don't
follow standards.
===========

So there you have it. Good luck. Let us know how you get on. And if your wife
catches you, you've never heard of me...

....Kevin
--
Kevin & Theresa Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb

Alternative is to seal or finish with shellac, which is not soluble in
turpentine.

Even resin-set wood runs sometimes.


"Kevin & Theresa Miller" wrote in message
...
If you don't crystalize the sap it'll ruin any oil based finishes you put
on it
later. Well, maybe not danish oil, but any varnish type finishes anyway.
I had
a pine burl that gave me fits that way. Never tried it, but I got some
advice
on how to handle it (ran out of the pine before I could). Basically you
need to
kiln dry it.

George wrote:
Alternative is to seal or finish with shellac, which is not soluble in
turpentine.

Even resin-set wood runs sometimes.

True, although I had some problem even with a shellac finish on one piece,
although not to the same degree. Crystalizing the sap *and* sealing w/shellac
is probably the best bet...

....Kevin
--
Kevin & Theresa Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb

1. Place burl in oven at VERY close to 165 degrees F for 24- 28 hours.

Right now, the sections are about two feet in diameter, and longer than
they are wide. They're certainly not going to fit in the oven. : )

I will probably paint the ends of the logs and leave them for the time
being. In the future, I'll likely section them and go through the
crystallization process at that point. Thanks again for the info!

steve