Heat is your enemy when sanding. Slower means cooler, so sand slowly and
softly to preserve the surface of the wood against burnishing and the
sandpaper against degrade. Not to mention your fingers against blisters.

Green wood is too tough to sand properly, so I give it a run with 100 or
120 - machine sanding, than let it dry before going on. Saves me a lot of
frustration and clogged paper.

"Bart V" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,
There have been a lot of postings about turning & grinding speeds
recently. I'm hoping someone will do the "final chapter" and enlighten
me about what speed to do the [final] sanding at. I used to do it at
about 3,000 rpm but slowed it down some as my fingers got too hot. Any
difference in speeds for dry hardwood and green wood?

Bart

You might want to get a powered sanding device. I use an angle drill that
spins at 1300 forward and reverse. This little guy has saved my hands and
has made my work as smooth as a baby's bottom. If you are worried about
expense, you can go to Ebay and do a search on "Close Quarter Drill" and you
will be able to get a brand new one for about $30. Then go to Industrial
Abrasives web site and get a hook and loop disc holder and hook and loop
discs (in grits of 120, 220, 320 & 400) and you will have a small investment
of about $60 in the equipment and paper and your work will be 100 times
better for using the powered sander and your fingers will not get burned and
your pieces will not get heat checked. I wish $60 would solve so many other
problems!

Ray




"Bart V" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,
There have been a lot of postings about turning & grinding speeds
recently. I'm hoping someone will do the "final chapter" and enlighten
me about what speed to do the [final] sanding at. I used to do it at
about 3,000 rpm but slowed it down some as my fingers got too hot. Any
difference in speeds for dry hardwood and green wood?
Many thanks,
Bart.
-
Check my most up to date email address at:
www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
www.haruteq.com

**may your moments of need be met by moments of compassion**

If you are feeling that much heat just imagine how hot the wood is. The
heat can cause heat checks, tiny cracks, that will detract from the
appearance. If your piece gets hot you are sanding too fast. You can also
try one of the self-powered sanders, no heat generated but does not sand
very well in the bottoms of bowls due to slow speed.....Ralph
"Bart V" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,
There have been a lot of postings about turning & grinding speeds
recently. I'm hoping someone will do the "final chapter" and enlighten
me about what speed to do the [final] sanding at. I used to do it at
about 3,000 rpm but slowed it down some as my fingers got too hot. Any
difference in speeds for dry hardwood and green wood?
Many thanks,
Bart.
-
Check my most up to date email address at:
www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
www.haruteq.com

**may your moments of need be met by moments of compassion**