I got some bottle stopper kits and made a few. People love them. I was thinking, those of you who make them, what do you use on the bottom of the wood where it meets the metal stopper to seal the wood from water for when the people wash the stoppers?

I use a friction finish on the wood such as Behlen's Woodturners Polish http://www.pennstateind.com/store/BEHLENPOL.html or HUT Crystal Coat http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0104

I was thinking of using either the same finish on the bottom or maybe some superglue to seal the wood.

thanks for your suggestions and ideas.

Ted

On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 20:38:31 -0400, "Ted" wrote:

I got some bottle stopper kits and made a few. People love them. I was thinking, those of you who make them, what do you use on the bottom of the wood where it meets the metal stopper to seal the wood from water for when the people wash the stoppers?

I use a friction finish on the wood such as Behlen's Woodturners Polish http://www.pennstateind.com/store/BEHLENPOL.html or HUT Crystal Coat http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0104

I was thinking of using either the same finish on the bottom or maybe some superglue to seal the wood.

thanks for your suggestions and ideas.

Ted

My procedure is a bit easier, since I quit using friction polish years ago, but
whatever the finish, I try to have it over the entire piece..

I buff everything, so it's as easy to buff the base of the stopper as it is any
other part.. I feel that the layer of carnauba wax is about as waterproof as
most finishes, and can be easily renewed..

This assumes, of course, that you are mating the stopper with a flat, sanded
surface on the bottom, right?

I don't think either of the finishes that you're using actually seal the wood,
at least not for long, so you could just use the Behlen's on the bottom, also..
Not as much shine when applied without rotation/heat, but it should seal as well
as the other areas are.. YMWV


mac

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On Wed, 1 Apr 2009 19:56:11 -0400, "Ted" wrote:

Thanks Mac,

Obliviously, I want a finish that will last. What wax are you using? Car wax? If so, does the brand matter? Are you using a buffing wheel on a bench grinder? obliviously, I am interested in learning more about it. I am always interested in learning new techniques.

Ted

Ted.. have you got HTML turned on, or something?
Your posts are about 2 screens wide??

I use the Beall system and LOVE it.. on my second one, actually..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...90,43040,43042

I have added all 3 sizes of bowl buffs, but only use them when I really have
to.. The large ones work great, but each time I go down in size, I'm less happy
I am with the results..

I do a lot of turning and estimate that I've saved hundreds of dollars on the
finishes that I don't buy any more..

Most hardwoods are ready to buff as soon as they're sanded, softer woods are
really helped by an application of (my preference), natural Danish oil..
Some use sanding sealer, etc... whatever is used MUST be cured or it just makes
a mess out of the piece and the buffing wheels.. DAMHIKT

The last wheel is to apply and buff a layer of Carnauba wax... Very hard wax and
food safe...

I resisted buffing for years... Just didn't seem like it would work..
Then, using a gift certificate, I got the system and tried it.. HOLY ****!

I still remember the first test... A cocobolo pen blank..
Picked it up off the shelf just like it came off the saw and held one side to
the buffing wheel.. Wow, what a difference!
You gotta try it to believe it... YMWV


mac

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On Thu, 2 Apr 2009 21:40:14 -0400, "Ted" wrote:

Can this be run on a bench grinder or does it have to be done on a long shaft on a lathe?

I used to use an old washing machine motor..
Beall suggests 1,750 rpm, so that worked well..
The system comes with an adapter that the wheels screw into that fits a 5/8"
shaft and has a reducer to fit 1/2"..

Since I got the Nova XP, my Jet 1442 has become a dedicated buffer, so I use it
with the Morse taper adapter..
I've also added an extension that screws directly onto the spindle for vases and
stuff..

I really prefer using the lathe, because of the speed choices (buffs are
suggested at around 2,200 rpm, as I recall) and the rotating headstock..

Some production turners will set up 3 motors to avoid wheel changes, but I'd
rather save room in the shop and take that extra 20 or 30 seconds per wheel
change..


mac

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On Sun, 5 Apr 2009 22:08:28 -0400, "Ted" wrote:

Any other suggestions?

About what, Ted?

I'm too old for questions like that... Not enough memory anymore and too lazy to
write to the hard drive..



mac

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