Hi folks,
I have a cheapo spindle lathe (Cdn Tire, the one with the yellow tail
piece wheel) that's out of kilter. When I put on a a piece of
perfectly flat MDF on the face plate to make a sanding disk I first
need to true it. Once trued, if I flip it over it's no longer true.
I'm wondering:
1) would there be anything adjustable in the headstock
2) or should I true the face plate by grinding it down somehow
3) or take the easy way out and glue a piece of hardwood on the face
plate, true it and leave it alone.
I'm probably answering my own question here but maybe you might have
an even better suggestion (new lathe's totally out of the
question...).
Cheers,
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
=== www.haruteq.com ===

For cost savings, I'd recommend a dedicated faceplate.

JD (Kentucky)

--
He that will make a good use of any part
of his life must allow a large portion of it
to recreation.
- John Locke

"Bart V" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,
I have a cheapo spindle lathe (Cdn Tire, the one with the yellow tail
piece wheel) that's out of kilter. When I put on a a piece of
perfectly flat MDF on the face plate to make a sanding disk I first
need to true it. Once trued, if I flip it over it's no longer true.
I'm wondering:
1) would there be anything adjustable in the headstock
2) or should I true the face plate by grinding it down somehow
3) or take the easy way out and glue a piece of hardwood on the face
plate, true it and leave it alone.
I'm probably answering my own question here but maybe you might have
an even better suggestion (new lathe's totally out of the
question...).
Cheers,
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
=== www.haruteq.com ===

There is no adjustment for that. It's rather unlikely that it is a spindle
problem in any case. The faceplates supplied with most lathes of this type
is simply cast and threaded. As such, they generally have a runout problem.
Unless you have a metal lathe, truing it up isn't really an option unless
you take it to a machine shop. They will charge more for that than it is
worth. Try buying a machined face plate. Likely that will be the fix.


"Bart V" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,
I have a cheapo spindle lathe (Cdn Tire, the one with the yellow tail
piece wheel) that's out of kilter. When I put on a a piece of
perfectly flat MDF on the face plate to make a sanding disk I first
need to true it. Once trued, if I flip it over it's no longer true.
I'm wondering:
1) would there be anything adjustable in the headstock
2) or should I true the face plate by grinding it down somehow
3) or take the easy way out and glue a piece of hardwood on the face
plate, true it and leave it alone.
I'm probably answering my own question here but maybe you might have
an even better suggestion (new lathe's totally out of the
question...).
Cheers,
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
=== www.haruteq.com ===

"Bart V" wrote: (clip) 3) or take the easy way out and glue a piece of
hardwood on the face
plate, true it and leave it alone.
I'm probably answering my own question here (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yes, that is the best, and simplest, answer. Actually, for a lot of
turning, you don't have to do anything at all. When you part off the work,
it will be true, leaving behind a wedge-shaped piece.

Hi Bart,

#5. ? Take an even easier way out. Use a cheap tap or make your own
from a bolt and thread a disc of MDF or similar density timber on the
spindle and true it if you must. The workpiece will self-true anyway.
Look in the archives for details.

BTW, the Palm Beach society docs. (liposuctionists) here-bouts refer to
their work in full page ads as "Liposculpture". This area is God's
waiting room. Like your faceplate, why they bother being trued up with
Lipo or Botox (or machining) is beyond me.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Jul 14, 11:47 am, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yes, that is the best, and simplest, answer. Actually, for a lot of
turning, you don't have to do anything at all. When you part off the work,
it will be true, leaving behind a wedge-shaped piece.

FWIW, I couldn't agree more. Most faceplates are just cast iron
junk, so there is no chance of them being "true". Since we aren't
grinding out wood to machinist's tolerances, I wouldn't do anything
unless it was a huge problem.

I can tell you that if you do get a really out of true piece of junk
faceplate, there is an easy way to true it up. I had one that was
given to me as the owner was so ****ed he bought some of those nice
(Oneway?) machined faceplates.

Here's what I did, BUT I AM NOT RECOMMENDNIG THIS TO ANYONE. I
mounted the faceplate on my Jet mini, and set the lathe on its lowest
speed. I held my 4 1/2" grinder under the faceplate so that if it
grabbed a little it would take the grinder away from me.

I very carefully took a little material off the outside of the
faceplate until it was true to my spindle. It didn't take much.
Working on the face of the faceplate, I held the top of the wheel at
about 9 o'clock and carefully ground the slow spinning faceplate
true. This took a little longer, but with patience was easy to do.

The resulting surface, while true was really rough. I took one of my
belt sanders and dressed the edge perpendicular to the bed, and it
looked great. It looks like a new, semi machined faceplate now.

That all being said and done, I can honestly say that I don't notice
any difference when using that one or the plain jane cast iron factory
pieces I have bought over the years.

In the end, I wouldn't bother with any truing unless it was just about
unusable.

Robert

MDF - hum - ok. Didn't know it was strong enough for shear forces.

Why flip it over ?! - it is likely flat to flat better than you can unless
it is on a mill or large steel lathe.

For years I screwed a block on and make a chuck or a jam rod for a bowl
foot.....

What is truing to you - round or flat face. You say perfectly flat MDF.

You can cut a taper nicely when running over the face or down a spindle.
I suspect you did that or have a face plate that is off axis and you
true a board to be flat to that - you then can NOT flip it over to ?true again?
for what purpose I don't know.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Bart V wrote:
Hi folks,
I have a cheapo spindle lathe (Cdn Tire, the one with the yellow tail
piece wheel) that's out of kilter. When I put on a a piece of
perfectly flat MDF on the face plate to make a sanding disk I first
need to true it. Once trued, if I flip it over it's no longer true.
I'm wondering:
1) would there be anything adjustable in the headstock
2) or should I true the face plate by grinding it down somehow
3) or take the easy way out and glue a piece of hardwood on the face
plate, true it and leave it alone.
I'm probably answering my own question here but maybe you might have
an even better suggestion (new lathe's totally out of the
question...).
Cheers,
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
=== www.haruteq.com ===


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

Here's what I did, BUT I AM NOT RECOMMENDNIG THIS TO ANYONE. I
mounted the faceplate on my Jet mini, and set the lathe on its lowest
speed. I held my 4 1/2" grinder under the faceplate so that if it
grabbed a little it would take the grinder away from me.

I very carefully took a little material off the outside of the
faceplate until it was true to my spindle. It didn't take much.
Working on the face of the faceplate, I held the top of the wheel at
about 9 o'clock and carefully ground the slow spinning faceplate
true. This took a little longer, but with patience was easy to do.

The resulting surface, while true was really rough. I took one of my
belt sanders and dressed the edge perpendicular to the bed, and it
looked great. It looks like a new, semi machined faceplate now.

That all being said and done, I can honestly say that I don't notice
any difference when using that one or the plain jane cast iron factory
pieces I have bought over the years.

In the end, I wouldn't bother with any truing unless it was just about
unusable.

Robert


you made one good decision - low speed - but you could have done much better
just using your bowl gouge to cut the cast iron - HHS will cut it just fine,
just keep the speed down - carbide is better if you have a carbide tool -
resharpen when you are done - before I got my metal lathe I made some steel
parts on my wood lathe - you don't have the rigidity of a metal lathe (your
hand is not as rigid as a solid steel tool holder), but you can certainly
true up or round off something.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

just permanently affix the disk to a cheap faceplate - you can buy from me,
make your own, or sometimes the faceplates for your lathe are really cheap
anyway. for $5 or $6, it's just not worth hassling with

bill
www.wbnoble.com


"Bart V" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,
I have a cheapo spindle lathe (Cdn Tire, the one with the yellow tail
piece wheel) that's out of kilter. When I put on a a piece of
perfectly flat MDF on the face plate to make a sanding disk I first
need to true it. Once trued, if I flip it over it's no longer true.
I'm wondering:
1) would there be anything adjustable in the headstock
2) or should I true the face plate by grinding it down somehow
3) or take the easy way out and glue a piece of hardwood on the face
plate, true it and leave it alone.
I'm probably answering my own question here but maybe you might have
an even better suggestion (new lathe's totally out of the
question...).
Cheers,
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
=== www.haruteq.com ===


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **