If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls,
what would you choose?
sort of the "stuck on an island" question.
State type, size and make

On Oct 7, 7:52 am, Max63 wrote:
If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls,
what would you choose?
sort of the "stuck on an island" question.
State type, size and make


Hello Max,

That is an interesting question that you pose. Actually, if you has
said only one tool to turn either spindles or bowls, it would have to
be a round nose scraper with a negative rake grind on it. However, the
scraper would tear grain on the softer hardwoods and would only work
well on the harder hard woods. But since you are allowing two tools,
one for spindles and one for bowls the choice would be different.

For spindles, the Robert Sorby Spindle Master in a one inch width will
make virtually all cuts on a spindle. It turns nice beads, nice coves,
and it will turn a smooth surface like a skew chisel. Since I'm not
limited to one tool, I choose to use my 3/4" Hamlet skew chisel and my
1/2" Crown Spindle gouge for most of my spindle turning.

For bowls and platters, I would choose the 5/8" bowl gouge with an
Ellsworth Grind on it. I believe that Crown and Henry Taylor both make
this signature gouge with Ellsworth's name on the handle. This tool
will make all of the cuts needed to turn a bowl and is the only grind
that I know of that can cut the inside of a bowl from rim to bottom in
one sweeping cut without having to change the grind on the tool. I
think that most 5/8" bowl gouges can be ground to the Ellsworth grind
using the Ellsworth Jig. Once the grind is established, it can be
reproduced with the Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig or with the Tormek
System.

I'm sure others will have different choices, but these would be mine.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/woodturn.htm

On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 08:52:40 -0700, Max63 wrote:

If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls,
what would you choose?
sort of the "stuck on an island" question.
State type, size and make

Well, I'm sorta torn on the spindle thing... either an Oland tool or an oval
skew...

For bowls, I have to go with the master... Several folks have asked Bill
Grumbine this question and his answer is always a bowl gouge with swept back
wings..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Well, I will also chime in on a swept back grind for a bowl gouge,
can't be beat for all round use and versatility. On the spindle side,
I would be torn. For anything straight, I would have to choose a skew
chisel, 1 inch because I like bigger and heavier tools, they just feel
better for me. However if I am going to be doing a lot of beads and
coves, I am more comfortable with a gouge. I have played with a Sorby
Spindle master, and liked it as I could do coves and beads with it
better than I could with a skew, and maybe better than I could with a
spindle gouge. I also wouldn't want to be without a scraper. I use
them a lot for bowls, and end grain, and roughing spindles.
robo hippy


On Oct 8, 7:35 am, mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 08:52:40 -0700, Max63 wrote:
If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls,
what would you choose?
sort of the "stuck on an island" question.
State type, size and make

Well, I'm sorta torn on the spindle thing... either an Oland tool or an oval
skew...

For bowls, I have to go with the master... Several folks have asked Bill
Grumbine this question and his answer is always a bowl gouge with swept back
wings..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 08:52:40 -0700, Max63 wrote:

If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls,
what would you choose?
sort of the "stuck on an island" question.
State type, size and make

Well, I'm sorta torn on the spindle thing... either an Oland tool or an
oval
skew...

For bowls, I have to go with the master... Several folks have asked Bill
Grumbine this question and his answer is always a bowl gouge with swept
back
wings..


This bunch will do it all, but will be slower hollowing bowls, because you
can't plunge and rotate like a cylindrical gouge. Unsurpassed in control
and utility in convex operation. If only one, the 1/2".

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...30,43164,43175

Used this pattern until I got my first "bowl" gouge in the 70's.

On Oct 7, 11:52 am, Max63 wrote:
If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls,
what would you choose?
sort of the "stuck on an island" question.
State type, size and make

This is an unfair question for me being about half of what I turn is
hollow forms.
So I suppose a swept back bowl gouge and a 3/4" round nose scraper for
cleanup.
I quite often catch myself doing spindle work with a bowl gouge so
that will work.
So if I am really stuck on an island I guess I'll have to give up
hollow forms altogether.
Bob
http://outofcontrol-woodturning.com

On Oct 8, 9:55 pm, turnerbob wrote:
On Oct 7, 11:52 am, Max63 wrote:

If you only had one tool for spindle work, and just one for bowls,
what would you choose?
sort of the "stuck on an island" question.
State type, size and make


Big Alan Lacer fan here.. I'd have to say the skew chisel for spindel
work (coves, beads, etc.). I've pretty much learned everything I know
from Alan's two skew chisel videos - very nice videos if you want to
check them out. I do use an oval skew for the most part which isn't
something Lacer boasts in his videos - not the easiest to sharpen, but
it can be done.

-S