Got a small lathe and started turning a bowl out of dry oak ,should the
tool rest be above or below center ?
I'm having trouble holowing out the inside of the bowl, either tool is
dull or i'm to low on the post because I keep getting allot of catches &
broke the edge off of a bowl gouge .

All advice will be appreciated

Jerry

"Jerry - OHIO" wrote in message
...
Got a small lathe and started turning a bowl out of dry oak ,should the
tool rest be above or below center ?
I'm having trouble holowing out the inside of the bowl, either tool is
dull or i'm to low on the post because I keep getting allot of catches &
broke the edge off of a bowl gouge .

All advice will be appreciated


Inside below, so your tool exits into air at the end of the cut. Outside
(convex) above, for the same reason.

If you get too high the force tangent to the point of contact will kick you
away on convex, too low, and it will kick you away on concave. Both safely
into air rather than wood.

You never want to get below the wood with the edge of your tool any more
than is necessary to lift a shaving.

Hi Jerry
Take a minute here OK, draw a circle , big enough so you can see
better, now draw horizontal line at centre, now mark a point above the
horizontal line on the inside of the circle, (read that again) than do
it, now imagine this is where your gouge is and you have a catch, OK,
the gouge will go down vertical more or less, so draw a vertical line
from the point where, your gouge was, and you will see that the gouge
will get out in the air, agree ??.
Now we do the same thing but the spot where your gouge is, we place
below the horizontal line,(read again, and mark it) and now you have a
catch OK, your gouge is going down, draw that line, vertically down
from where you your gouge was, and you will see the gouge is going
down INTO the wood, do you see it ?? YOU HAVE NOW A MAYOR CATCH.
Hollowing on the inside, keep your scraper/gouge ABOVE the centre
line.
I have a few photo albums with a couple of pictures that show clearly
where the tool is in the bowl while hollowing, my hands are not always
where I normally would have them, this was to show a certain "mickey
mouse" a few things.
So have a look and go back at it, just remember that turning fresh new
wood is a lot easier than dry oak, and I think if you like to
practice, get some green wood and have fun.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum26.html
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum30.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On May 2, 5:45 pm, (Jerry - OHIO) wrote:
Got a small lathe and started turning a bowl out of dry oak ,should the
tool rest be above or below center ?
I'm having trouble holowing out the inside of the bowl, either tool is
dull or i'm to low on the post because I keep getting allot of catches &
broke the edge off of a bowl gouge .

All advice will be appreciated

Jerry

Correct.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Jerry
Take a minute here OK, draw a circle , big enough so you can see
better, now draw horizontal line at centre, now mark a point above the
horizontal line on the inside of the circle, (read that again) than do
it, now imagine this is where your gouge is and you have a catch, OK,
the gouge will go down vertical more or less, so draw a vertical line
from the point where, your gouge was, and you will see that the gouge
will get out in the air, agree ??.
Now we do the same thing but the spot where your gouge is, we place
below the horizontal line,(read again, and mark it) and now you have a
catch OK, your gouge is going down, draw that line, vertically down
from where you your gouge was, and you will see the gouge is going
down INTO the wood, do you see it ?? YOU HAVE NOW A MAYOR CATCH.
Hollowing on the inside, keep your scraper/gouge ABOVE the centre
line.
I have a few photo albums with a couple of pictures that show clearly
where the tool is in the bowl while hollowing, my hands are not always
where I normally would have them, this was to show a certain "mickey
mouse" a few things.
So have a look and go back at it, just remember that turning fresh new
wood is a lot easier than dry oak, and I think if you like to
practice, get some green wood and have fun.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum26.html
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum30.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On May 2, 5:45 pm, (Jerry - OHIO) wrote:
Got a small lathe and started turning a bowl out of dry oak ,should the
tool rest be above or below center ?
I'm having trouble holowing out the inside of the bowl, either tool is
dull or i'm to low on the post because I keep getting allot of catches &
broke the edge off of a bowl gouge .

All advice will be appreciated

Jerry

wrote: (clip) now imagine this is where your gouge
is and you have a catch, (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hey, "Other Leo," I learned this as "the 90 degree rule," and it applies
whether your tool rest is set high or low. Never let the tool angle become
more than 90 degrees to the moving wood. This true on the inside or outside
of the bowl, and applies regardless of toolrest height. Your "circular
reasoning*" can be used to prove this as well.
*Forgive me, I couldn't resist.

Hi other Leo

Sometimes we have to keep it simple, Leo, as they say, KISS, you do
know why, no Mickey Mouse work here ;-)))

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On May 3, 12:58 am, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
wrote: (clip) now imagine this is where your gouge

is and you have a catch, (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hey, "Other Leo," I learned this as "the 90 degree rule," and it applies
whether your tool rest is set high or low. Never let the tool angle become
more than 90 degrees to the moving wood. This true on the inside or outside
of the bowl, and applies regardless of toolrest height. Your "circular
reasoning*" can be used to prove this as well.
*Forgive me, I couldn't resist.

For inside work, George says below while LVDL says above.
Hmmmmm.

"Max63" wrote in message
oups.com...
For inside work, George says below while LVDL says above.
Hmmmmm.


Not difficult. You catch into the wood, which is why you want air there if
you slip up so you can't take too big a bite. What's past the gouge is will
push into the air below the tool at the point tangent if you try to slip in.

Sorry the parallax, but you have to take the help when you can.
http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ent=Inside.flv

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...nt=Outside.flv

Thanks guys for all the info and pics.
My biggest problem is the cheepo tools & hard wood
The bad-- bent one goulge broke two
The Good --- going to Woodcraft for "New & Shinny tools in the mornig
, ya I'm hooked.
Thanks again Jerry

Hey Jerry--

Save some of that tool money for some lessons!

Technique is a HUGE part of avoiding catches, and getting a smooth job.

Good tool + bad technique guarantees a bad job.

So-so tool in experienced hands can generate fine work.

Look on the first year's projects as "learning opportunities."

Have fun--safely

Old Guy



"Jerry - OHIO" wrote in message
...
Thanks guys for all the info and pics.
My biggest problem is the cheepo tools & hard wood
The bad-- bent one goulge broke two
The Good --- going to Woodcraft for "New & Shinny tools in the mornig
, ya I'm hooked.
Thanks again Jerry

You can buy videos and learn effectively if you don't want to take a class.

"Old guy" wrote in message
news:6fF_h.95173$_c5.63252@attbi_s22...
Hey Jerry--

Save some of that tool money for some lessons!

Technique is a HUGE part of avoiding catches, and getting a smooth job.

Good tool + bad technique guarantees a bad job.

So-so tool in experienced hands can generate fine work.

Look on the first year's projects as "learning opportunities."

Have fun--safely

Old Guy



"Jerry - OHIO" wrote in message
...
Thanks guys for all the info and pics.
My biggest problem is the cheepo tools & hard wood
The bad-- bent one goulge broke two
The Good --- going to Woodcraft for "New & Shinny tools in the mornig
, ya I'm hooked.
Thanks again Jerry