Yesterday I spent $26 to have 4 blades sharpened. They've done a fair job
in the past but this time it seemed no time and it was a burnishing tool

Charlie B is our sharpenig guru , I guess, but what do the rest of you
guys do? I've not even watched one being sharpened so I'm as dumb as a rock
on this.

Thanks
TomNie

Tom
I use a file in a simple hand held jig to sharpen chains most of the time.
The file needs to fit your chain. Your manual should have the file size
listed. It will also have sharpening instructions. Basically you file at
35* to the bar and about 5* off the horizontal, using equal strokes on each
link although it varies from 25* and 0*. Most do one side of the chain and
then turn the saw around to do the other side. I just do one link right
handed and then flip the file to the other hand for the next link and so on.
I also have a jig that mounts on the bar and ensures that each tooth is
filed to the same depth and at the same angles. It is a bit of a pain and I
use it only if the chain really needs a refurbishing.
I also have a set of grinders for my Dremel that I use to repair after
cutting nails and other surprises.
Most of the time it is simply a few strokes with the file. Remember, this is
like turning tools, we sharpen to keep a sharp blade sharper, we grind to
get rid of the bad mistakes.
Every few sharpenings, I lower the depth guages on the chain. Use a guage
and flat file. It only takes a couple of minutes and makes all the
difference in the world.
Hope this helps. A small saw will do a lot if it is sharp. Take a look at
this :-)
http://aroundthewoods.com/treedown.html

For a comprehensive look at chain (more than you ever wanted to know) see
http://www.oregonchain.ca/tech/manual_maint.shtm

and my favorite (But I use a Stihl, great saw)
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/Shar...61301final.pdf

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Tom Nie" wrote in message
...
Yesterday I spent $26 to have 4 blades sharpened. They've done a fair job
in the past but this time it seemed no time and it was a burnishing tool


Charlie B is our sharpenig guru , I guess, but what do the rest of you
guys do? I've not even watched one being sharpened so I'm as dumb as a
rock
on this.

Thanks
TomNie

In article , "Tom Nie"
wrote:

Yesterday I spent $26 to have 4 blades sharpened. They've done a fair job
in the past but this time it seemed no time and it was a burnishing tool

Charlie B is our sharpenig guru , I guess, but what do the rest of you
guys do? I've not even watched one being sharpened so I'm as dumb as a rock
on this.

Thanks
TomNie

Sounds like the depth gauges were not lowered.

It should all be spelled out in your (perhaps unopened) saw manual.

I file the teeth free-hand every tank of gas - just a few strokes. Often
it's one size of file for the first half of tooth-wear, and a smaller
size for the second half, if you use up the full useable area of tooth.
The sizes and angles will be spelled out in the chain maker's
documentation. The proper angle (sideways) is often indicated by the
wear line at the back of the tooth. There may also be a vertical angle,
depending on the chain. You can get jigs to enforce these angles.

I lower the depth gauges with a filing jig when things are not cutting
much, or a check with the jig indicates that there would be a noticable
amount to file.

I either have them done (ground at the shop) or go bother to find the
grinder setup I have access to (which is enough of a pain that I
sometimes just have them done, more due to the shop it lives in than the
grinder itself) when there's major damage. You can do it all with files
and jigs, but it is much easier to get all the teeth the same length
with a grinder setup if some of the teeth are suffering from rock
damage. HF has their version on sale for $40-50 every few months, or the
fancier brand-names are available for $120-170, on up over $400 if you
really want to spend that much. Many people seem quite content with the
HF version, and I would have bought it by now if I did not have access
to the one I have access to - and I may yet, just to avoid the agony of
digging my way to it and setting it up properly.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

harbor fright sells a chainsaw sharpener for $40. It works well

Tom Nie wrote:
Yesterday I spent $26 to have 4 blades sharpened. They've done a fair job
in the past but this time it seemed no time and it was a burnishing tool

Charlie B is our sharpenig guru , I guess, but what do the rest of you
guys do? I've not even watched one being sharpened so I'm as dumb as a rock
on this.

Thanks
TomNie

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in news:vBl2h.37673
$H7.13327@edtnps82:

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/S

Hi Darrell,
What do you do with that much spruce? I've got some big trees, dead and
dying, that I've got to take down because they are close to my sheds and
the house. In my case they are hemlocks. I agree with you about small saws.
I use an old Homelite 16". I wil buy a Stihl if the Homelite ever quits,
but it's still going strong after 30 years.
Hank

Hank
Are those old Homelights not great saws? I used to use one when I was
working Christmas trees for a small saw to knock the trees down. I had a big
Pioneer for the heavy work. Unfortunately it died on me and parts are no
longer available. The Stihl is a great tool though and I am very happy with
it.
Mostly I burn the spruce. I turn a little of it but I can only turn so much
and I have enough wood here for about 5 years and I keep adding. It is not
the best burning wood, but it works and it is free. In fact I save money.
The cost of a gym is offset by the need to spit and stack all this stuff.
Nothing like a six pound splitting maul for exercise unless it is a six
pound hammer and a pair of wedges in this gnarly old spruce. Give me a maple
to split any day and ash is pure luxury.
Hemlock is a great wood. Keep some for turning. I find it keeps well out of
doors so garden mushrooms are a must. (I am going to post a free video on
garden mushrooms in the next day or so.) It also makes gorgeous boards so if
you can get some bandsaw milled go for it.


--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

Tom Nie wrote:
Yesterday I spent $26 to have 4 blades sharpened. They've done a fair job
in the past but this time it seemed no time and it was a burnishing tool
Charlie B is our sharpenig guru , I guess, but what do the rest of you
guys do? I've not even watched one being sharpened so I'm as dumb as a rock
on this.

It depends on how bad the chain is. If it's not to bad I touch it up
with a file, you can get them over at Home Desperate. If it's really
bad, HF sells an inexpensive sharpener, wait until it's on sale. Check
the angle against a new blade and read the instructions, it isn't rocket
science.
Dave Leader
--
Volunteer at Claude Moore Colonial Farm (National Park)
http://www.1771.org
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org
M-WTCA - Mid-West Tool Collectors Assoc
http://www.mwtca.org/