My question is when I’m shaping the inside of a bowl, using the bowl gouge ½” hss, which has steep sides and a fairly flat bottom with a curve joining the two areas. To make the final cuts as smooth as possible do I
a) Try and cut from the lip down the side and all the way to the centre in one cut.
b) Finish the side in one cut, the bottom in another and try and join the two on the curve.
c) Go back to the scraper to finish off

At the moment I can get the sides clean and the base clean but as I’m going from the side to the base I trend to get a few ripples left while I’m trying to make one continuous cut.

I know most of you will shout at me saying practice, practice, practice and all will come clear or hopefully smooth. All I’m asking is how I should make this last cut so I can go away and practice……..

Mark

Mark you're doing just fine the way you're doing it now,(yes going in
one swoop would be nice, not many can though) just get it as smooth as
you can and then use a round nose scraper skewed and clean up carefully
going from bottom to the side, then sand.
Just make sure you have that scraper sharp and take only a wispy cut.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo



Woodborg wrote:
My question is when I'm shaping the inside of a bowl, using the bowl
gouge ½" hss, which has steep sides and a fairly flat bottom with a
curve joining the two areas. To make the final cuts as smooth as
possible do I
a) Try and cut from the lip down the side and all the way to the centre
in one cut.
b) Finish the side in one cut, the bottom in another and try and join
the two on the curve.
c) Go back to the scraper to finish off

At the moment I can get the sides clean and the base clean but as I'm
going from the side to the base I trend to get a few ripples left while
I'm trying to make one continuous cut.

I know most of you will shout at me saying practice, practice, practice
and all will come clear or hopefully smooth. All I'm asking is how I
should make this last cut so I can go away and practice........

Mark




--
Woodborg

"Woodborg" wrote in message
...

My question is when I'm shaping the inside of a bowl, using the bowl
gouge ½" hss, which has steep sides and a fairly flat bottom with a
curve joining the two areas. To make the final cuts as smooth as
possible do I
a) Try and cut from the lip down the side and all the way to the centre
in one cut.
b) Finish the side in one cut, the bottom in another and try and join
the two on the curve.
c) Go back to the scraper to finish off

At the moment I can get the sides clean and the base clean but as I'm
going from the side to the base I trend to get a few ripples left while
I'm trying to make one continuous cut.

I know most of you will shout at me saying practice, practice, practice
and all will come clear or hopefully smooth. All I'm asking is how I
should make this last cut so I can go away and practice....


I like to make the final passes continuous. Makes the scraper superfluous
on a continuous curve. If you're doing as a lot of new turners do, and
making an abrupt change in direction at the bottom of the bowl, 'nother
matter. For me that's a different gouge position entirely, and often a
different gouge for bottoming, so I make the change there at the logical
point.

With a continuous curve inside you should be able to follow by rolling the
tool to present the edge at the appropriate angle as the grain angle changes
on the piece. I don't use bowl gouges, preferring my forged pattern for
their gentle curve. Allows me to get more guidance from the bevel on a
thinner cut. Great control, and almost impossible to get a catch.

[quote=George
I like to make the final passes continuous. Makes the scraper superfluous
on a continuous curve. If you're doing as a lot of new turners do, and
making an abrupt change in direction at the bottom of the bowl, 'nother
matter. For me that's a different gouge position entirely, and often a
different gouge for bottoming, so I make the change there at the logical
point.

With a continuous curve inside you should be able to follow by rolling the
tool to present the edge at the appropriate angle as the grain angle changes
on the piece. I don't use bowl gouges, preferring my forged pattern for
their gentle curve. Allows me to get more guidance from the bevel on a
thinner cut. Great control, and almost impossible to get a catch.[/QUOTE]

George
Perhaps you could post a picture of the profile of your forged tool as this sounds interesting and helpful.
I am talking about a continous curve, even on something like a small peanut dish with say a 1" side there's still the turn from side to bottom even when nearly a continous curve
Mark

"Woodborg" wrote in message
...
George
Perhaps you could post a picture of the profile of your forged tool as
this sounds interesting and helpful.
I am talking about a continous curve, even on something like a small
peanut dish with say a 1" side there's still the turn from side to
bottom even when nearly a continous curve

Here's my HSS trio, have the same in carbon as well. You can see them at
www.leevalley.com as well.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...hree-Noses.jpg The
angle of the grind is uniform all across, so you just grind the way you cut,
Anchoring the tool on the rest, lay the Bevel on the rotating wheel and
Cutting by sweeping left then right. Two's a fresh edge.

You can get the shavings as broad or as thin as the grain orientation
requires by skewing the gouge to reference a broader or narrower bevel to
steady against the piece.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...sition-Cut.jpg

You want the point where the edge exits the wood to take a thin, feathered
exit cut. I prefer to leave the button on the bottom rather than risk
popping it out and leaving a dimple. Sands off quickly with less danger.