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Gerald Ross
 
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Default Drill guide

I have a problem drilling the hole for a woodworm screw perpendicular to
the blank, causing the blank to wobble.

To help me, I made a drill guide. It is bell-shaped with the bottom
diameter about 4 inches. I made the height enough that the drill
protrudes 3/4 inch making it a drill stop also. I hollowed the bottom
around the central hole to allow for chips when drilling. It works for me.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Whatever temperature a room is, it's
always room temperature.





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Leo Lichtman
 
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Default Drill guide


"Gerald Ross" wrote: I have a problem drilling the hole for a woodworm
screw perpendicular to the blank, causing the blank to wobble.
To help me, I made a drill guide. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
There is another part to the problem, and I would like to know whether you,
or others, have any suggestions.

It's similar to the alignment problem of starting a tap in metal. Before it
is started, the Woodworm can be off axis a little. I rely on feel and sight
to try to get it close. Once it starts, if it is off axis, it generally is
not going to be self-aligning. If the wood hits the chuck jaws on one side
first, what do you do? Go back and restart? Tighten it a lot and hope for
the best?

Or, doesn't this happen to you?


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Hi Leo (the other one) :-))

First off, I use the woodworm on wet wood, not hard dry wood (normally)
and my drill press only handles 14"D or less, so anything larger than
14" I drill with a handheld drill and eyeball it, and drill deep enough
to not bottom out, 1" for the short screw and 1 1/2" for the long one.

I never have a problem just spinning the wood onto the woodworm screw
until the face seats against the chuck jaws, and my wood blanks faces
are mostly chain sawed and rough, the wood gives enough for the screw
to align in the wood in my experience.

I do on occasion back the wood off to insert a wood wedge between the
jaw and the wood to have the outside edge of the blank get into plane
better.

I also use the largest jaws that I have, gives more leverage and also
more face contact and steadiness.

Wobble does not come from the screw being off a few degrees, but from
the blanks face not contacting the chucks jaws.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

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Richard Stapley
 
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Default Drill guide

Gerald I assume the problem is you are using a Hand Power Drill rather than
a Pillar/Bench Drill? in which case your solution makes a lot of sense.

RVS
http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
I have a problem drilling the hole for a woodworm screw perpendicular to
the blank, causing the blank to wobble.

To help me, I made a drill guide. It is bell-shaped with the bottom
diameter about 4 inches. I made the height enough that the drill
protrudes 3/4 inch making it a drill stop also. I hollowed the bottom
around the central hole to allow for chips when drilling. It works for me.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Whatever temperature a room is, it's
always room temperature.





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Richard Stapley
 
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Default Drill guide

Gerald as an after thought, and to others out there with perhaps a similar
situation, you could use the Wolfcraft Drill Guide?

See http://www.wolfcraft.com/product_detail.cfm?id=80

Benefit here is you can see where the Drill Point is at all times.

RVS

"Richard Stapley" wrote in message
...
Gerald I assume the problem is you are using a Hand Power Drill rather

than
a Pillar/Bench Drill? in which case your solution makes a lot of sense.

RVS
http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
I have a problem drilling the hole for a woodworm screw perpendicular to
the blank, causing the blank to wobble.

To help me, I made a drill guide. It is bell-shaped with the bottom
diameter about 4 inches. I made the height enough that the drill
protrudes 3/4 inch making it a drill stop also. I hollowed the bottom
around the central hole to allow for chips when drilling. It works for

me.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Whatever temperature a room is, it's
always room temperature.





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Gerald Ross
 
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Richard Stapley wrote:
Gerald as an after thought, and to others out there with perhaps a similar
situation, you could use the Wolfcraft Drill Guide?

See http://www.wolfcraft.com/product_detail.cfm?id=80

Benefit here is you can see where the Drill Point is at all times.

RVS


Downside is that I would have to buy it. I have a drill press but on an
irregular chunk of wood it is still difficult to get the top level.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Whatever temperature a room is, it's
always room temperature.





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Alan
 
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Default Drill guide




On 4 May 2006 22:41:59 -0700, "
wrote:



I also use the largest jaws that I have, gives more leverage and also
more face contact and steadiness.

Wobble does not come from the screw being off a few degrees, but from
the blanks face not contacting the chucks jaws.


To increase stability I use a piece of ply, turned to a suitable
diameter, that sits on the front of the chuck. This is the surface
against which the wood now rests, rather than a thin circle of metal
as presented by the jaws, and I find it adds stability.
Alan
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Hi Alan

I have never found it necessary to use anything else than my chucks
jaws, but if it works better for you doing it your way, you just go and
use it that way.

A solid face to tighten your blank up to is what is needed, I use the
jaws and you use the plywood disk, should work just fine, good turning.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

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Don Sayler
 
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Default Drill guide


"Alan" wrote in message
...



On 4 May 2006 22:41:59 -0700, "
wrote:



I also use the largest jaws that I have, gives more leverage and also
more face contact and steadiness.

Wobble does not come from the screw being off a few degrees, but from
the blanks face not contacting the chucks jaws.


To increase stability I use a piece of ply, turned to a suitable
diameter, that sits on the front of the chuck. This is the surface
against which the wood now rests, rather than a thin circle of metal
as presented by the jaws, and I find it adds stability.
Alan
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth


But the thin circle of metal is still in contact, albeit now with the ply
instead of the workpiece, should decrease stability as you have just added a
new factor into the equation. Although I have used a disc such as you use
when the contact face of the workpiece is smaller than the diameter of the
jaws.


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