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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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LDD in the uk
Hi
Can any one reccomend a LDD the is available in the uk. Would the granules such as "finish" be any good or does it have to come in a liquid state. From what i've read so far about LDD, you rough out your bowl soak for 4+ hours, then let dry say 4 hrs and i should be able to turn and finish, wax/oil varnhish etc. Please correct me if this is wrong. Is there any wood that doesn't work well and also what works best TIA Mark |
#2
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LDD in the uk
"Sniperborg" wrote in message ... Hi Can any one reccomend a LDD the is available in the uk. Would the granules such as "finish" be any good or does it have to come in a liquid state. From what i've read so far about LDD, you rough out your bowl soak for 4+ hours, then let dry say 4 hrs and i should be able to turn and finish, wax/oil varnhish etc. Please correct me if this is wrong. Is there any wood that doesn't work well and also what works best TIA Mark The simple answer is the type of LDD you need apparently isn't available in the UK. You have some Costcos, but not sure that the LDD storebrand they use is the same one as in the U.S. Some comments: ==Folks who have tried granules have reported that form of LDD doesn't work. ====I have not heard back from UKers if they have found a satisfactory substitute. ===Soaking in LDD isn't necessary. I cut a blank from a green log and turn it immediately (if not immediately place it in the solution until you are ready to turn it -- no time limit for soaking). ==== If you don't finish turning the object, return it to the solution until you are ready to do so. ====Do not dry the turned item prior to applying finish. It should be almost dry from your final cutting and sanding. Apply the finish immediately. ====Read the attached "Treatise." (Sent by separate email) Any questions? Email me! Leif |
#3
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LDD in the uk
Sniperborg wrote:
Can any one reccomend a LDD the is available in the uk. Would the granules such as "finish" be any good or does it have to come in a liquid state. From what i've read so far about LDD, you rough out your bowl soak for 4+ hours, then let dry say 4 hrs and i should be able to turn and finish, wax/oil varnhish etc. Please correct me if this is wrong. Is there any wood that doesn't work well and also what works best Finish is a powder / tablet product for use in dishwashers only. What LDD refers to is what we in the UK and Ireland call "Washing up liquid". -- Alun Saunders |
#4
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LDD in the uk
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 09:55:32 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"
wrote: The simple answer is the type of LDD you need apparently isn't available in the UK. You have some Costcos, but not sure that the LDD storebrand they use is the same one as in the U.S. Ivory dishwashing liquid and Dawn, both UK-available, I believe, have both been proven effective. I really have sincere doubts that Costco has some mystical, cosmic ingredient that goes into their dishwashing liquid that makes also magically keep wood from cracking. Myself and others have used plain old Dawn dishwashing liquid, as well as Ivory and been able to actually dilute them more and had it perform just as well as the Holy Costco. Mark, if you _do_ have Costco over there, try their stuff at the recommended dosage. If not, I've had good success with Dawn at 1:3 (soap:water) ratio and I have read of others using Ivory at 1:4. These are the "standard" strengths, mind you, not the "Ultra Dawn" or "Super-Duper Dish-Dissolving Ivory" or whatever they call it now. I would recommend even more water if you are using one of the dishwashing concentrates, like Ultra Dawn. Probably on the order of 1:5. Remember, when you buy one of those "money-saving" dishwashing liquids, you are buying a bottle of water with a little soap in it, so it's already pretty well diluted. I believe Leif's methodology is "spot on" if you will, as far as technique goes. I've seen a lot of "variations" on the theme, with various soaking/draining/drying schemes being tried. When I first heard of this, over 4 years ago now, it was much more simple: --Cut your blank and rough turn it to no more than 1" thickness. --Soak your roughed turning in the solution at least 24 hours, but more won't hurt. --When you're ready to finish it, take it out of the solution, drain it for a COUPLE OF MINUTES, wipe it off with a paper towel and commence finishing. --If you have to stop partway, put it back in the soup until you can come back to it. --Otherwise, just finish the bowl as normal....no other fancy drying schemes are necessary or desired. Just put your finish on and be done with it. Simple as that. I've used this technique myself, with decent results, but just don't bother with it because I don't lose that much to cracking anyhow, and for me, it's more bother than it's worth. YMMV -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#5
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Thanks for all the concise info, i'm now out to buy some of this holy grail.
I have a couple of logs, ash i think waiting by my chainsaw block for when i get home. I know they shouldn't crack while there in my shed as the temp out side is 1 or 2 degrees above freezing ( the great British weather ). When i get one finished i will bring indoors and see if they crack or warp. I will then put a post up to let you know. Mark |
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