Greetings!

I have two Sorby oval skew chisels. But, I can not figure out a
"reasonable" way to sharpen them.

I have the woodcraft slow speed grinder and the wolverine grinding jigs.
But, the wolverine skew jig gives a concave grind. I am looking for a flat
grind.

Any suggestions for fast & consistent would be greatly appreciated.

Rob

Rob McConachie wrote:
Greetings!

I have two Sorby oval skew chisels. But, I can not figure out a
"reasonable" way to sharpen them.

I have the woodcraft slow speed grinder and the wolverine grinding jigs.
But, the wolverine skew jig gives a concave grind. I am looking for a flat
grind.

Any suggestions for fast & consistent would be greatly appreciated.

Rob


I use mine with a concave grind, works for me. Otherwise something like
a belt sander if you want the faces flat. A round stone will always
leave the face concave.

--
Bill Berglin

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of
arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid
in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming, 'WOW! What A RIDE!!" ... Unknown

Rob McConachie wrote:
I have two Sorby oval skew chisels. But, I can not figure out a
"reasonable" way to sharpen them.
I have the woodcraft slow speed grinder and the wolverine grinding jigs.
But, the wolverine skew jig gives a concave grind. I am looking for a flat
grind.
Any suggestions for fast & consistent would be greatly appreciated.

I sharpen mine by hand on a piece of sandpaper.

I use scraps from a used industrial belt sander (about 3 feet wide).
Hold it flat on a bench with one hand. Use the other hand to hold the
skew. Place it so the bevel is flat on the paper and let your knuckles
rub along the bench as a guide.

This is much like sharpening a carpenters chisel on an oilstone, except
you don't have the oil mess to contend with, nor do you have to worry
about keeping the oilstone flat.

If you find that the bevel gets too short, use the grinder to take away
the heel of the bevel then hone on the sandpaper.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com - a blog for my customers
http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com/TheToolrest/ - a blog for woodturners

"Derek Andrews" wrote in message
...

I sharpen mine by hand on a piece of sandpaper.

Yep, skews and beading tools respond real well to it, and it's a place to
use some of that paper that you take off the sander but keep, because it's
still got some bite. If you use PSA papers, you can stick 'em to a melamine
surface and have a "stone" to freshen edges with by stroking the tool rather
than vice-versa.


If you find that the bevel gets too short, use the grinder to take away
the heel of the bevel then hone on the sandpaper.


Grinder's too good for 'em. Use the belt/disk sander.